Clutch 'clicking' *updated*

S

Stoned

Guest
In the past few weeks I’ve been finding it harder and harder to change gears, specifically into 2nd and 5th. I noticed about the same time that the clutch pedal has started a weird sort of clicking under my foot when close to the top of the release.

Any clues as to what this might be?

The clutch has been flawless until now, the brake cylinder was changed about 20,000 miles back and I have the clutch reinforcement bracket.

Could it be release bearings or anything like that?
The bite point is slightly lower than normal.
 
S

Stoned

Guest
Yep they were all recently replaced with that Silkoleene Synth stuff gearbox man suggested
 
Fast Guy

Fast Guy

Moderators
Staff member
Have a look under the dashboard just in case, but as you have the reinforcement bracket, I'd hope it wouldn't be that.
 
J

jasegould

Guest
Have a look under the dashboard just in case, but as you have the reinforcement bracket, I'd hope it wouldn't be that.
Click to expand...
So do I...I can fix these quite easily if it is :wink:
 
S

Stoned

Guest
jasegould said:
Have a look under the dashboard just in case, but as you have the reinforcement bracket, I'd hope it wouldn't be that.
Click to expand...
So do I...I can fix these quite easily if it is :wink:
Click to expand...
I'd love to know how. I had my head under there last weekend to see if I could adjust the bite point, and after a few minutes of being upside down my head was swimming lol
 
Major_Sarcasm

Major_Sarcasm

Member
My old black R's clutch pedal used to click occasionally during the travel to the floor. It also had the strengthening bracket fitted. It never became a problem to change gear though (and I never figured out what the hell it was either :oops: ). I assumed that it was a bit of metal fatigue that had set in before the bracket had been fitted.

Sorry fella, hope you figure it out, and it's not too expensive.
 
L

LeeSmith

Member
also check the clutch fork, as mine started clicking and was difficult to get into gear sometimes, then the clutch started to get really heavy.

then the clutch fork snapped in two.
 
J

Jonny_gti-r

Guest
mine has just started doing that too, clicks as you push the clutch pedal in, near the top of the travel. really annoying.
 
J

jasegould

Guest
I'd love to know how. I had my head under there last weekend to see if I could adjust the bite point, and after a few minutes of being upside down my head was swimming lol
Click to expand...
You can remove the whole dash board..i just remove the pedal box and speedo....creates just enough room to work.
 
C

chrisniss91

Active Member
Mine has just started as well, and its very annoying. I also have a reinforcement bracket. When i bring the clutch up just before the top theres a slight click :x
 
stevepudney

stevepudney

GTiROC CHAIRMAN
Staff member
OK, what it is. The Clutch pedal is fixed into position and swings on a single bolt. There is a nylon sleeve in the pedal for the bolt to go through and over time what happens is the pedal and the bolt start to wear 2 channels in he nylon sleeve, the clicking is the pedal slipping into the channels and hiting the metal of the bolt. If your really bothered by this you can take the pedal off and turn the nylon sleeve through 180 degrees (or get new like I did from Nissan) so the pedal has no channels to slip into. Should be good for another 10 years then.

The issue of biting point adjustment is easy, get on your back with your head in the drivers footwell, you need a torch or some form of light but at the top of the pedal you will see the slave cylinder coming through the bulkhead and attached to the top of the pedal via a threaded bar and a fork. The fork has a pinch bolt holding it in place, undo that and then with a set of long noose pliers, turn the threaded bar to make the biting point higher or lower.
To undo the pinch nut sounds easy but due to access its a right pain, I cut a section out of the end of a 12mm ring spanner, this would slip over the threaded bar of the slave cylinder and allow just enough movement to undo the nut. When you manage to turn the threaded bar do it so the fork moves towards the end of the bar, I found that if you turn the bar through 2 rotations that would lift the biting point about 1 inch. It's an easy job but very fiddley.
 
stevepudney

stevepudney

GTiROC CHAIRMAN
Staff member
Just be 100% aware that getting that pedal out and back in whilst retaining your sanity is not what I would call easy. Just be prepared for a bit of a nightmare job.
 
J

Jonny_gti-r

Guest
Sounds about right! Might see if my mate wants to have a look with me. He'll get impatient and take over :lol:
 
stevepudney

stevepudney

GTiROC CHAIRMAN
Staff member
The main difficulty is that there is a spring on the top of the pedal which is attached to the pedal cage and it's getting that back on thats the real pig.
 
J

Jonny_gti-r

Guest
Thanks for the tips, much appreciated. Need all the tips i can get with this bloody thing. Problem after problem but bloody hell it shifts :D
 
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