car not accelerating well in first gear
- Thread starter hmmm
- Start date
With the ignition on (but not engine started) - short the 2 pins with a paperclip or bit of wire for about 5 seconds..... then remove the short (i.e. drop the paperclip on the floor!).
The engine check light will be merrily flashing a code.
To stop the flashing and go back to normal - just turn off the ignition - you don't need to short the pins again.
It is really simple.
Cheers
GeeTee 8)
The engine check light will be merrily flashing a code.
To stop the flashing and go back to normal - just turn off the ignition - you don't need to short the pins again.
It is really simple.
Cheers
GeeTee 8)
...
in thel link to the other thread it says i have to short the wires again.
'To clear the ECU codes, short the wires out again while it is flashing the code. If you leave it flashing the code and then start the engine you will have an inbuilt LEAN/RICH
indicator that works off your O2 sensor (which must be warmed up before it will do it).'
thanks to all for the quick replies
in thel link to the other thread it says i have to short the wires again.
'To clear the ECU codes, short the wires out again while it is flashing the code. If you leave it flashing the code and then start the engine you will have an inbuilt LEAN/RICH
indicator that works off your O2 sensor (which must be warmed up before it will do it).'
thanks to all for the quick replies
you short once to test.. and get the fault code..
Then do the other bit to reset the fault codes/ecu status...
it may have been running in safe mode and you reset it back into normal mode..
Taking it for a drive round the block (warm up then use boost) may get one of the sensors to complain again and it will go back into safe mode again..
what you need to do is find out the fault code it is giving.. then you know which sensor to clean/replace/sort.
the fault code is the number of flashes, then gap then number of flashes when you did the test?
mine did 3-gap-4 so that was the knock sensor..
let us know how you get on.
8)
Then do the other bit to reset the fault codes/ecu status...
it may have been running in safe mode and you reset it back into normal mode..
Taking it for a drive round the block (warm up then use boost) may get one of the sensors to complain again and it will go back into safe mode again..
what you need to do is find out the fault code it is giving.. then you know which sensor to clean/replace/sort.
the fault code is the number of flashes, then gap then number of flashes when you did the test?
mine did 3-gap-4 so that was the knock sensor..
let us know how you get on.
8)
pics
how do i get pics up on here?
near my dump valve there is a gold thing whcih has one pipe connected but there is a space for another pipe which is not there. There is also another hole near the intercooler with no pipe cpming from it.
could this be a reason?
let me know how to post pics and u can see
i am getting desperate now... i was beaten today by a wealthy man in a clk 320 and a mini cooper s!!!!
pls help
how do i get pics up on here?
near my dump valve there is a gold thing whcih has one pipe connected but there is a space for another pipe which is not there. There is also another hole near the intercooler with no pipe cpming from it.
could this be a reason?
let me know how to post pics and u can see
i am getting desperate now... i was beaten today by a wealthy man in a clk 320 and a mini cooper s!!!!
pls help
that would explain why your car is driving shitty.. a 3-4 code could be one of two things..
either the det/knock sensor is dead and is reading as busted.. in which case you need to have it replaced, (mike at mjp auto will sell you one at a reasonable price) then you need to have it fitted.
or your engine is detonating.. it could be running on shitty fuel, or running too much boost.. there are other reasons..
are u running it on optimax?
if you reset the code and go for a drive again, not boosting just gentle, does the knock sensor trip again? thats what mine did.. i had to replace the sensor.. all fine ever since.
either the det/knock sensor is dead and is reading as busted.. in which case you need to have it replaced, (mike at mjp auto will sell you one at a reasonable price) then you need to have it fitted.
or your engine is detonating.. it could be running on shitty fuel, or running too much boost.. there are other reasons..
are u running it on optimax?
if you reset the code and go for a drive again, not boosting just gentle, does the knock sensor trip again? thats what mine did.. i had to replace the sensor.. all fine ever since.
...
here is the new dump valve (red dot) next to the gold piece (yellow dot)
when u turn the gold piece over there is hole with nothing connected (green dot)
and then there is the hose where nothing is connected (blue dot)
hope u can see everything...if not i will try and take more pics :lol:
here is the new dump valve (red dot) next to the gold piece (yellow dot)
when u turn the gold piece over there is hole with nothing connected (green dot)
and then there is the hose where nothing is connected (blue dot)
hope u can see everything...if not i will try and take more pics :lol:
Rishi
Still waiting on some shims!
Blue Dot - I'm sure thats meant to run into one of the nossles at the back... Something to do with the heating/air vents...
Green Dot - Looks like this is where the dump valve should be... Again hard to tell without being there to look at it... Just check that under the inlet there is a hose that connects stright to a Dump Valve...
Rishi
Green Dot - Looks like this is where the dump valve should be... Again hard to tell without being there to look at it... Just check that under the inlet there is a hose that connects stright to a Dump Valve...
Rishi
T
Tart
Guest
Mate, u seem to b havin loadsa probs and Im in particularly helpful mood.... where in West London r u... Im in Harrow.... if ur anywhere local we can meet up and I'll have a quick look???
where in West London r u... Im in Harrow.... if ur anywhere local we can meet up and I'll have a quick look???The photos of the dump valves look as if you have an atmospheric which is connected and the standard one left to blank of the original hose that it recirculated too, this in itself wont cause problems, unless the old dump valve is fooked and is letting un-metered air through. This is how the bailey instructions tell you to leave it, ( i guess its a bailey on there )personnally when i had mine i used a blanking plug from B&Q to seal the recir. hose.