lol, no worries Bob, just trying to salvage some pride from my previous post ;-)pulsarboby said:
braking/handling problem?
- Thread starter gtirjoey
- Start date
Just my few pence worth. As Bobby says, damping is really important and a few clicks on the front or back can solve or create problems.
Unless you have posh dampers then your bump (squat) is basically fixed and your rebound (lift) is adjustable. So to stop the weight moving forward you need to increase your rebound (number of clicks) at the rear.
So you increase your rear stiffness to the max to get no weight transfer and stop the skittishness right.... err wrong. As soon as you turn the wheel all the weight now goes to the outside front and the back end skids.
So what's the right answer...... there isn't one, you have to try it yourself.
You can use my zen budhist handling guide that no bu**ger understood so I stopped writing it but comes down to if you need more control go stiffer, if you need more grip go softer. As you say you are losing rear end grip under braking either stiffen the front or soften the rear. In general try softer first but sometimes you might soften and you lose control of the spring in a different situation so the only option is to stiffen the other end.
So bobby might be right but for all the wrong reasons
Incidentally, the rear of a car squats with the hand brake because of anti-squat designed into the suspension for acceleration that works in reverse under braking. Subtle stuff that whiteline barely understand if you read the theory justification that is pro/anti-dive/lift kit.
So read that last comment again and start to understand why increasing the rear brake amount can improve stability at the rear end. Increase your braking past the point of available grip and you skid again....simple.... not
Unless you have posh dampers then your bump (squat) is basically fixed and your rebound (lift) is adjustable. So to stop the weight moving forward you need to increase your rebound (number of clicks) at the rear.
So you increase your rear stiffness to the max to get no weight transfer and stop the skittishness right.... err wrong. As soon as you turn the wheel all the weight now goes to the outside front and the back end skids.
So what's the right answer...... there isn't one, you have to try it yourself.
You can use my zen budhist handling guide that no bu**ger understood so I stopped writing it but comes down to if you need more control go stiffer, if you need more grip go softer. As you say you are losing rear end grip under braking either stiffen the front or soften the rear. In general try softer first but sometimes you might soften and you lose control of the spring in a different situation so the only option is to stiffen the other end.
So bobby might be right but for all the wrong reasons
Incidentally, the rear of a car squats with the hand brake because of anti-squat designed into the suspension for acceleration that works in reverse under braking. Subtle stuff that whiteline barely understand if you read the theory justification that is pro/anti-dive/lift kit.
So read that last comment again and start to understand why increasing the rear brake amount can improve stability at the rear end. Increase your braking past the point of available grip and you skid again....simple.... not
warringtonjack
Active Member
:faint::faint::faint::faint::faint::faint::faint:campbellju said:Just my few pence worth. As Bobby says, damping is really important and a few clicks on the front or back can solve or create problems.
Unless you have posh dampers then your bump (squat) is basically fixed and your rebound (lift) is adjustable. So to stop the weight moving forward you need to increase your rebound (number of clicks) at the rear.
So you increase your rear stiffness to the max to get no weight transfer and stop the skittishness right.... err wrong. As soon as you turn the wheel all the weight now goes to the outside front and the back end skids.
So what's the right answer...... there isn't one, you have to try it yourself.
You can use my zen budhist handling guide that no bu**ger understood so I stopped writing it but comes down to if you need more control go stiffer, if you need more grip go softer. As you say you are losing rear end grip under braking either stiffen the front or soften the rear. In general try softer first but sometimes you might soften and you lose control of the spring in a different situation so the only option is to stiffen the other end.
So bobby might be right but for all the wrong reasons
Incidentally, the rear of a car squats with the hand brake because of anti-squat designed into the suspension for acceleration that works in reverse under braking. Subtle stuff that whiteline barely understand if you read the theory justification that is pro/anti-dive/lift kit.
So read that last comment again and start to understand why increasing the rear brake amount can improve stability at the rear end. Increase your braking past the point of available grip and you skid again....simple.... not
:faint::faint::faint::faint::faint::faint::faint:
:faint::faint::faint::faint::faint::faint::faint:
P
pulsarboby
Guest
jim im now back to square one again:lol: :faint: i kind of understand what you mean but most of it has gone right over my head, oh well at least i was kind of on the right track (i think) even if for the wrong reasons!
what you have to bare in mind mr joey is that you have old standard non adjustable struts with old weak springs so you cant really do much at the moment, but yes coilies or adjustable damping struts with uprated springs will help you, but still wont win you a packet of fruit pastilles and a sherbert dib dab what im still owed btw:lol: :lol:
what you have to bare in mind mr joey is that you have old standard non adjustable struts with old weak springs so you cant really do much at the moment, but yes coilies or adjustable damping struts with uprated springs will help you, but still wont win you a packet of fruit pastilles and a sherbert dib dab what im still owed btw:lol: :lol:
Very true!campbellju said:
P
pulsarboby
Guest
did you fit the dizzy cap joe? if so did it make a difference?
took mine for a blast on the way back down the new hockley through road and scared the shite out myself:lol:
had it hitting 1.7 with the new setup but now when i change gear theres an almighty explosion from the exhaust in between gear changes and flames shooting out the back so im guessing its either to advanced on the timing or overfuelling, but the afr's look fine!
definately nowhere near as much lag though between gear changes:-D 8) will get steve to check the fuelling and igniotion advance on boost or im likely to blow the exhaust off, the bang is that bl00dy loud.
took mine for a blast on the way back down the new hockley through road and scared the shite out myself:lol:
had it hitting 1.7 with the new setup but now when i change gear theres an almighty explosion from the exhaust in between gear changes and flames shooting out the back so im guessing its either to advanced on the timing or overfuelling, but the afr's look fine!
definately nowhere near as much lag though between gear changes:-D 8) will get steve to check the fuelling and igniotion advance on boost or im likely to blow the exhaust off, the bang is that bl00dy loud.
Last edited by a moderator: