Bloody idle, need help
- Thread starter Chiffs
- Start date
Dooie Pop Pop
New Member
:evil: ****ingrobbingnissanbarstuards:evil: i replaced mine about a year ago and got fleeced it seemsstumo said:Dooie, nope. checked it today and that includes vat
can you post a pic chiffs or describe what you mean by f***ked?
Chiffs
New Member
Very black which dont mean a great deal but if you shake it and can hear it rattling like a little baby rattle it aint right. Might start selling them as novel rattles:lol:
Coming thing to happen to them so i have been told, lambdas are only designed to last around 50-60k.
They are also the tituana (dont know how its spelt:roll: )or something like that, they have a wider voltage read range (think its 1-5v, not sure)
ie one of the most expensive ones, should have a new one in on friday as not kept in stop and im not getting it from nissan at £100+.
Should only cost about £60ish trade through a mate, will post up the make and part nos once i have it. Could save peeps a few quid;-) 8)
Coming thing to happen to them so i have been told, lambdas are only designed to last around 50-60k.
They are also the tituana (dont know how its spelt:roll: )or something like that, they have a wider voltage read range (think its 1-5v, not sure)
ie one of the most expensive ones, should have a new one in on friday as not kept in stop and im not getting it from nissan at £100+.
Should only cost about £60ish trade through a mate, will post up the make and part nos once i have it. Could save peeps a few quid;-) 8)
Chiffs
New Member
No it didnt and looked shiny.
Had the car on the rollers today, lost 10bhp since last time and its running rich middle of the rev range upto the limiter. Around 10 to 11 on the lambda scale:shock:
Only difference mod wise was a walbro and fmic.
Made 291bhp at the fly and 278lbft of torque.
Next job is to change the engine temp (ecu) sensor which i got today and start playing with the emanage to bring the fueling back inline and bring the power up:lol: :twisted:
Had the car on the rollers today, lost 10bhp since last time and its running rich middle of the rev range upto the limiter. Around 10 to 11 on the lambda scale:shock:
Only difference mod wise was a walbro and fmic.
Made 291bhp at the fly and 278lbft of torque.
Next job is to change the engine temp (ecu) sensor which i got today and start playing with the emanage to bring the fueling back inline and bring the power up:lol: :twisted:
GTIR-LOZ
New Member
told you least its not expensive i unplugged my lambda sensor yesterday and ran without that but the idle was still high
chiffs if you get the biting point on the clutch and drop the revs that way when you reclutch do the revs stay low or do they bounce back up, as mine stay low, which i assume means an electrical fault of some sort as if it was an airleak it would go back up i think, :?
i checked the tps sensor using the safc and it was reading the correct voltage for idle position when it was idling high, so the sensor is ok ( if it was reading toohigh it could be a sensor fault or the throttle stops would be malajusted)
i still think it could be the air valve under the inlet(the one bolted to the head) but at 95 quid its a tad expensive for a guess but we are running out of things to change i will check my timing but it was setup at abbey and they know what they are doing
whats next on your list to do
least its not expensive i unplugged my lambda sensor yesterday and ran without that but the idle was still high chiffs if you get the biting point on the clutch and drop the revs that way when you reclutch do the revs stay low or do they bounce back up, as mine stay low, which i assume means an electrical fault of some sort as if it was an airleak it would go back up i think, :?
i checked the tps sensor using the safc and it was reading the correct voltage for idle position when it was idling high, so the sensor is ok ( if it was reading toohigh it could be a sensor fault or the throttle stops would be malajusted)
i still think it could be the air valve under the inlet(the one bolted to the head) but at 95 quid its a tad expensive for a guess but we are running out of things to change i will check my timing but it was setup at abbey and they know what they are doing
whats next on your list to do
Dooie Pop Pop
New Member
drop a 600lb ball onto the mother***ker? sounds like a plan:-D
Chiffs
New Member
Yep checked the tps using both the avcr and emanage and thats all set up right.
Been on rolling road and lost 9 bhp but gained a bit on torque and was overfueling like a bugger down to about 10-11 on lambda scale.
Big feck off hammer to fix now or idle control valve thing or that bypass valve, both really expensive.
Dont know now what to do??????????????????????????????
Been on rolling road and lost 9 bhp but gained a bit on torque and was overfueling like a bugger down to about 10-11 on lambda scale.
Big feck off hammer to fix now or idle control valve thing or that bypass valve, both really expensive.
Dont know now what to do??????????????????????????????
GTIR-LOZ
New Member
i am not sure you can get to it with the support braket fixed inplace for the inlet manifold also i believe that it flows air when its not switched on and closes it off when its switched on so unplugging it may not work i am going to try unplugging the control valves tomorrow and see what happens i cant seem to get a timiing light from work as they dont have one:lol: but if that checks out i will order the valve to try unless someone has one i can pinch as there is nothing left to change after that lol:lol:
but if that checks out i will order the valve to try unless someone has one i can pinch as there is nothing left to change after that lol:lol:
Chiffs
New Member
Yeah its just the IAR valve or the idle control valve (IAA and AAC unit in one)
Have changed between two idle control valves and that made no difference, going to take my spare one apart and give it a clean and do all the tests i can that are in the manual, put the clean one in and see if it makes any change.
Failing that big hammer, starting to really pee me off now
Have changed between two idle control valves and that made no difference, going to take my spare one apart and give it a clean and do all the tests i can that are in the manual, put the clean one in and see if it makes any change.
Failing that big hammer, starting to really pee me off now
GTIR-LOZ
New Member
was looking at my spare plenum today and if i have got the flow direction correct for the air that controls the idle if the adjustment screw is wound all the way in and the solenoids for the idle control valve are shut (i.e disconnected) then the only way that air can cause high idle from there is from the iac as this flows directly into the plenum basically the idle control solenoids have no effect on it i will order the valve on tues but i did enquire about it and they said it would be a few weeks till they can get one:evil:
