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pyrotecnic
Guest
those boxes are the same as the ones I can get hold of. Anybody let us know if the need one.
Battery Box
- Thread starter SickBoy
- Start date
leon2engines
New Member
thats quite a gay looking little box, if it does the job tho..
Lee, all I did was cut the round post terminal off the end of the original posi battery cable and soldered one of these on in it's place
then mounted one of these terminals to the driverside inner wheel arch
conected the original live battery cable to one post and the new cable which leads to the boot, to the other post.
The original earth strap that comes off the block I soldered one of these on it
and bolted it to the shelf (where the battery used to sit).
Then mounted the new battery box in the boot (bolting it straight to the boot floor and sealing with mastic). Drill another hole in the boot floor near the new batt box and put a bolt in the hole so the head of the bolt is on the underside of the floor and the threaded part sticking up into the boot, this will act as an earth stud. Put the new battery in the box and take a short black cable from the earth post on the battery to the new earth stud in the boot floor.
I also put one of these 300 amp fuses inline on the positive cable, mounted on the battery box.
And because the battery is in a box and it's a pain in the bottom to take the lid of the battery box off every time you want to disconect the battery I put one of these in the positive cable as well
Also if you shrink wrap all the joints on the cable it makes a really neat job of it
Another little tip, when you feed the Positive cable through the bulkhead, make sure you have a rubber gromet in the bulkhead hole to protect the cable, could be a nasty fire starter Even though I've protected the positive cable where ever I can, this is the reason for the 300 amp fuse, just in case it does short out somewhere.
All the bits are available from that website I showed you
then mounted one of these terminals to the driverside inner wheel arch
conected the original live battery cable to one post and the new cable which leads to the boot, to the other post.
The original earth strap that comes off the block I soldered one of these on it
and bolted it to the shelf (where the battery used to sit).
Then mounted the new battery box in the boot (bolting it straight to the boot floor and sealing with mastic). Drill another hole in the boot floor near the new batt box and put a bolt in the hole so the head of the bolt is on the underside of the floor and the threaded part sticking up into the boot, this will act as an earth stud. Put the new battery in the box and take a short black cable from the earth post on the battery to the new earth stud in the boot floor.
I also put one of these 300 amp fuses inline on the positive cable, mounted on the battery box.
And because the battery is in a box and it's a pain in the bottom to take the lid of the battery box off every time you want to disconect the battery I put one of these in the positive cable as well
Also if you shrink wrap all the joints on the cable it makes a really neat job of it
Another little tip, when you feed the Positive cable through the bulkhead, make sure you have a rubber gromet in the bulkhead hole to protect the cable, could be a nasty fire starter
Even though I've protected the positive cable where ever I can, this is the reason for the 300 amp fuse, just in case it does short out somewhere.All the bits are available from that website I showed you
And here's a few pic's I just took of the install
And this is one of the boxe's I made (unsprayed)
And this is one of the boxe's I made (unsprayed)
Just a quick point, shouldn't you use a 'gel' type battery if you're having it within the passenger compartment :? The boot would count as within the passenger compartment as, it's not sealed off from the rest of the interior space :!:
Not sure I'd fancy inhaling all those sulphuric acid fumes.
If you do put it in a gas tight box, you should still have a vent to the outside to stop any possible explosive gas build up
Not sure I'd fancy inhaling all those sulphuric acid fumes.
If you do put it in a gas tight box, you should still have a vent to the outside to stop any possible explosive gas build up
Putting batteries in the boot of your car has been used for years throughout the car modding world, these have to pass MOT's, not forgetting they also get put in the boot by some car manufacturers (e.g. Skyline).
I personally used to do Hill climbing and used to have my battery in the boot. Before your car enters into something like sprints or Hill climb's your car gets inspected by race scrutineers and has to meet certain standard, this usually differs slightly from track/event to track but here are a few quotes
"Batteries All must be covered with a non-metallic material and securely fixed so they do not become dislodged in the event of an accident of any kind. If fitted inside the car driving compartment, they must be securely fitted within a box and leak proofed, if fitted in the boot the battery must be segregated from the fuel tank and covered in non-metallic material. Maximum two batteries to be fitted, and these of reasonable size 2 x 6volt or 2 x 12volt."
"The fitting of an External Circuit Breaker"
"Yellow tape around the battery ground lead: supposedly so that it can be cut quickly in an emergency by marshals"
I think as long as it's secure and leak free your OK, besides the engine compartment of most cars isn't exactly sealed from the passenger compartment is it ?? i.e. when you have a water/oil leak you can smell it burn. Also this is one of the reasons why the law stipulates exhaust systems should not have leaks and should exit beyond the skirt of the vehicle, otherwise they would leak into the passenger compartment.
I personally used to do Hill climbing and used to have my battery in the boot. Before your car enters into something like sprints or Hill climb's your car gets inspected by race scrutineers and has to meet certain standard, this usually differs slightly from track/event to track but here are a few quotes
"Batteries All must be covered with a non-metallic material and securely fixed so they do not become dislodged in the event of an accident of any kind. If fitted inside the car driving compartment, they must be securely fitted within a box and leak proofed, if fitted in the boot the battery must be segregated from the fuel tank and covered in non-metallic material. Maximum two batteries to be fitted, and these of reasonable size 2 x 6volt or 2 x 12volt."
"The fitting of an External Circuit Breaker"
"Yellow tape around the battery ground lead: supposedly so that it can be cut quickly in an emergency by marshals"
I think as long as it's secure and leak free your OK, besides the engine compartment of most cars isn't exactly sealed from the passenger compartment is it ?? i.e. when you have a water/oil leak you can smell it burn. Also this is one of the reasons why the law stipulates exhaust systems should not have leaks and should exit beyond the skirt of the vehicle, otherwise they would leak into the passenger compartment.
rayman75
New Member
from the looks of it there is a couple of little plastic things with self tappers for the strap :? doesnt look like itwill be very secure. i will be bolting it to the boot like what steve suggested.Dooie Pop Pop said:
also steve where can you get the 300amp fuse and connector cant seem to find one anywhere, also where did you get the terminal blocks from aswell (the ones that goes inside the engine bay)
ray, catch me on MSN
maz
New Member
ack damn my timing. i wish i had gotten one of those kits off you steve. im currently farting around on the net trying to source all these bits and bobs, having no luck at all. most of the 300 amp stuff is in america and its proving to be a pain in the ass. still got your links steve?
Steve,stevepudney said:Lee, all I did was cut the round post terminal off the end of the original posi battery cable and soldered one of these on in it's place
then mounted one of these terminals to the driverside inner wheel arch
conected the original live battery cable to one post and the new cable which leads to the boot, to the other post.
The original earth strap that comes off the block I soldered one of these on it
and bolted it to the shelf (where the battery used to sit).
Then mounted the new battery box in the boot (bolting it straight to the boot floor and sealing with mastic). Drill another hole in the boot floor near the new batt box and put a bolt in the hole so the head of the bolt is on the underside of the floor and the threaded part sticking up into the boot, this will act as an earth stud. Put the new battery in the box and take a short black cable from the earth post on the battery to the new earth stud in the boot floor.
I also put one of these 300 amp fuses inline on the positive cable, mounted on the battery box.
And because the battery is in a box and it's a pain in the bottom to take the lid of the battery box off every time you want to disconect the battery I put one of these in the positive cable as well
Also if you shrink wrap all the joints on the cable it makes a really neat job of it
Another little tip, when you feed the Positive cable through the bulkhead, make sure you have a rubber gromet in the bulkhead hole to protect the cable, could be a nasty fire starter
All the bits are available from that website I showed you
Hunted around to find this thread. Now that I've found it, can you point me in the direction of the place you sourced all the parts ?
Also, what guage cable did you use ? I was thinking 4 AWG ?!
Cheers
Paul
For most electrical stuff I use vehicle Wiring Products
http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/home/homepage.php
http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/home/homepage.php
Ha ha Paul,
It was actually vehicle wiring products I got the stuff from, very good service
HERES THE CABLE I went OTT on mine and bought 5 metres (more than enough) of the 11.2mm 300 amp cable.
any questions mate let me know
Steve
It was actually vehicle wiring products I got the stuff from, very good service
HERES THE CABLE I went OTT on mine and bought 5 metres (more than enough) of the 11.2mm 300 amp cable.
any questions mate let me know
Steve
So steve, you only ran one cable to the front with an inline 300amp fuse right?. Its just ive read another how to and that person ran 2 cables to the front, 1 to the original battery lead unfused and the other to the accessories terminal (original red block) with a 150amp fuse. How did you connect the accessorie wiring?
A
ard1ey
Guest
This bit caught my eye:
Don't do this mate, if the unfused lead ever does short out somewhere the battery can explode, or the cable could catch fire. Do like Steve says and install fuses on all the runs to the front of car as close to the battery as you can. Whether you do one or two runs is down to the cable size you choose.Animaldaz said:
ive never put fuses on the cable when relocating the battery to the boot most of the people i know with them have had grief with the fuse blowing when cranking car etc only thing i had that was handy on evo was a kill switch under bonnet as when working on car its a 2 second job to cut power