back of the engine

[WoOsH]

Hi all

right I have dropped the engine and box due to a water leak from the back of the engine. now I can see where the leak was coming from I can fix it. while the engine is out im going to replace all the rear hoses with silicon ones. my questions are do i need to refit the Y bracket? my leak appears to have been coming from a core/freeze plug (see picture) does this look right to you guys? the pipe right next to the core plug in the picture was also very wet however i could not see anything wrong with the rubber pipe that came off (not in picture). has anyone else had this happen? if it is the core plug this is due to someone at some point running an incorrect coolant mix and/or very cold weather. next question does anyone know where i can get a full set of rear silicon hose? this is not too much of problem as i have been told about a company near me that will make them up. Finally if anyone has any thoughts regarding this matter please feel free to post.

 

[stevepudney]

I'd imagine it was a loose hose rather than the core plug, these hoses are famous for there leaks.

Rob (odin) organised a group buy from Samco for a full set of the hoses on the rear of the engine some time ago.

Look on the Samco Website choose a distributor in you area and ask them for a Samco kit for the GTIR with Ref Number TCS111/C-B

 

[pulsarboby]

i would have to agree with steve and say the pipe was causing the problem, and spraying water onto the plug and down the back of the block!
however you could always unscrew that particular plug whilst the engines out, and put some ptfe plumbers tape around the thread!
as for the y bracket, leave it off! all it does is get in your way and makes everything a nightmare to get at.

 

[stevepudney]

Oh yeah I forgot about the Y bracket, chuck it out, if it wasn't there now you would have been able to do these hoses without dropping the engine.

 

[another sunny]

What a lovely picture of the knock sensor, perhaps we can put it into the gallery?

 

[Fast Guy]

What a lovely picture of the knock sensor, perhaps we can put it into the gallery?

I would but for some reason it won't save as a picture for me.


It will have been a leaking coolant hose. I had that one go last year.

 

[Uncle Winnet]

i had this on my r it was not the core plug but the hose leaking water on to the core plug and runing down it it was only a very small hole so only leakd once the water was under presuer

john

 

[WoOsH]

Spot on all of you its just the hose i will get that hose kit on order asap. cheerz all

next question where is the best place for inlet manifold gasket?

 

[youngsyp]

next question where is the best place for inlet manifold gasket?

Have a look on eBay for a 'thermal intake gasket'. These are thick plastic gaskets that help reduce heat transition from the head to the intake manifold. If you look around, you could probably pick one up for about the same as an OE intake gasket would cost.

Also, whilst you have the engine out and access to the back of it, bypass the throttle body heater hoses !

 

[stevepudney]

Also, whilst you have the engine out and access to the back of it, bypass the throttle body heater hoses !

I thought this was only advisable if you had an aftermarket ECU (ie Motec e.t.c.) that didn't use the Nissan cold start settings and if you do this with the stock ECU still in use you'd end up with very poor cold start ?

 

[youngsyp]

I thought this was only advisable if you had an aftermarket ECU (ie Motec e.t.c.) that didn't use the Nissan cold start settings and if you do this with the stock ECU still in use you'd end up with very poor cold start ?

Interesting, although I can't see why. As, doesn't the ecu take it's temp reading from somewhere else, other than the throttle body heater circuit ?

If so, this will make no difference to cold start and running quality !

 

[campbellju]

Nah, its for improving emissions to try and warm the engine more quickly.

Me taking off the auto choke did make the cold start worse (starts and then idles around 600rpm) but the joy I get from removing the manifold makes it all worthwhile.

 

[pulsarboby]

paul! the ecu takes readings from every one of those sensors and adjusts the mixture accordingly from the readings it recieves.
if you remove those sensors, then you quite simply have no cold start at all. this is ok in the summer but could be a pig to start in the winter months.

imo its not worth touching them, just remove that bracket at the back so you at least can get in to all that crap behind there (pipewise anyway)

 

[youngsyp]

paul! the ecu takes readings from every one of those sensors and adjusts the mixture accordingly from the readings it recieves.
if you remove those sensors, then you quite simply have no cold start at all. this is ok in the summer but could be a pig to start in the winter months.

imo its not worth touching them, just remove that bracket at the back so you at least can get in to all that crap behind there (pipewise anyway)

Hmmm, maybe I didn't explain myself very well.

What I meant to say was to remove/bypass the water heating pipes that go to the throttle bodies, so that the inlet is not heated. This should be a fairly easy task and you should only require a length of hose to complete it.
As you've pointed out Bob, I wouldn't remove any of the gumph that Jim has as I still have the OE ecu with stock mapping and mine currently, idles perfectly !

I'll be doing it myself, as soon as I get a bit of time.

I did something similar on my other halfs Civic Type R when she had it and that, along with a CAI kit, made the throttle response and pull noticably better.

Again, this won't make a massive diference but, every little helps !

 

[Odin]

I've just removed all the junk at the back of the engine, But I do have a Motec ECU which doesn't use any of the Nissan cold start rubbish anyway, It looks much better now and a lot easier to get at everything.



Rob

 

[WoOsH]

ok there are two ancillary and one coolant hose kits listed by samco tcs111/c, tcs111/c-a and tcs111/c-b. If the third one is for the back of the engine what are the others for? am I best replacing all of these now? they also told me its a 3 week wait so I suppose its gonna be a matter of giving the engine and the engine bay alotta spit and polish while I wait.

 

[stevepudney]

TCS111/C is for the 2 main rad hoses
TCS111/C-A is for a 7 piece kit (which includes the above)
TCS111/C-B is for a 4 piece kit for the back of he block

 

[youngsyp]

TCS111/C is for the 2 main rad hoses
TCS111/C-A is for a 7 piece kit (which includes the above)
TCS111/C-B is for a 4 piece kit for the back of he block

Steve, does the 7 piece kit include the 2 main rad hoses, and the 4 piece kit for the rear of the engine ?

If so, what's the extra hose for ?

Paul

 

[stevepudney]

Steve, does the 7 piece kit include the 2 main rad hoses, and the 4 piece kit for the rear of the engine ?

If so, what's the extra hose for ?

Paul

I spoke to Samco some time ago and it was all explained to me but to refresh my memory I just googled the part numbers trying to be helpful :?

TCS111 = 2 piece kit standard intercooler hoses

TCS111/C-A = is for a 7 piece kit and includes heater hoses e.t.c.

TCS111/C = is for the 2 main top and bottom rad hoses

TCS111/C-B = is for a 4 piece kit for the back of the block (as per group buy)


basically if you were to buy all the kits you would have everything available from Samco for the R' and none of the hoses would be repeated across the kits.

 

[Odin]

The hoses where made in two batches.

I know that the second batch included the oil/water cooler pipes at the back of the engine, But I can't remember all the details now, But if you want to replace all the water pipes you need the bottom 3 kits.


Rob