Anyone done rust treatment/respray?

maz

maz

New Member
My rear arch has started to bubble slightly and im thinking of trying to repair it before it gets any worse. i would like to do this as cheaply as possibile, so will most likely go for the sand down option, repair and then touch it back up. i want to avoid getting new arches put on, as i cant afford that just now.

any of you done this before and would be able to explain the steps you took? or atleast point me in the direction of a good tutorial? all help appreciated, thanks in advance.

/maz
 
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paz

Active Member
Its not really worth just sanding and filling matey as the rust will come back. The best option is to have the rust cut out and the holes welded up.

paz
 
maz

maz

New Member
damn, i was hoping that wasnt going to be the best option. guess il have to phone round for some quotes, before the patch gets bigger. cheers
 
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paz

Active Member
I had both done on mine and the welding was definitely better, with filler the problem came back within a few months. Unfortunately something went wrong with one of the arches for the new owner, I never found out what, but based on other mates who've had the same done the rust always comes back with a filler job.

Paz
 
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pulsarboby

Guest
yep it has started to blister again paz!


ok paz is right what hes just told you, but after cutting rust completely away with a grinder, you can use filler!;-)
but it has to be done properly on a dry (not damp) day.
treat the exposed bare metal with cure rust or a red oxide primer, then get some aluminium guaze to bridge the piece thats been cut away which should be held in place by a filling or jointing compound (flexible for vibration)

once you have secured the guaze in place then you can fill over the top to contour of arch and rub down to perfectly smooth so contour is completely matched.
the more time you spend here, the better the end result will be!

after this prime both top and underside, and apply top coat (finish colour).
leave it for at least 2 hours then get some 1200 wet n dry and rub down with soapy water 'lightly' the bit you have sprayed, untill it goes matt in colour (flatting down)

dry area completely then apply any type of polish cutting compound such as fareclay g3 or g7 and buff up to a brilliant, flat, deep, shine!
then apply a good polish to finish.

on the underside dont use underseal but use waxoyl or similar as bitumen based products such as underseal will just trap any moisture in metal, which will result in rust returning, such as in pazz's old car.
and there you have it:thumbsup:
 
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paz

Active Member
So you think its the underseal? That might explain it, the sprayer was mega pissed off about it - wanted to sort it but obviously with the car being 6 hours away it probably wouldn't be the best way of saving money :lol:

He spent AGES doing it as well - thats a real shame :(

paz
 
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sadsy

New Member
id cut it out and weld it up with clean metal, if you use aluminium gauze or any thing like that then it will come back. then seal it up at the back and on the inside of the panel before waxoiling it, the red oxide paint is ok but we have had front ends come back because the red oxide has not stopped tiny bits of rust resulting in lots of rust. its like frigging cancer.
 
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sadsy

New Member
youve gotta also think how water goes over the car and where the panels trap it, the quater windows (back side) have trims and clip into the panel through holes, with the wind blowing by and water trickling down, some water is gonna seep in, something to keep in mind!
 
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pulsarboby

Guest
im not a panel beater or bodyshop man, just stuff ive picked up over the years in the motor trade, so i dare not argue with you, as i know thats your game!

have to agree that welding a plate is much better than guaze as its rigid and will not suffer from vibration which could move guaze and crack filler allowing water and moisture to get in, then hey presto rust will appear!

but if the guy does not have the skills to weld a plate then this is the next best alternative, and if its done correctly rust will not re-appear, its not a lifetime cure and how can you put a timescale on when rust will appear anywhere on a car, it is a very grey area.
i.e pazz's car was welded not long ago, yet rust has still come through!

but i do fully agree regarding water and dirt traps!
mud collects on inner arches then gets wet and if not periodically cleaned away then rust will form there, no question! unless the area is sealed with a good sealant, 'in every crevice' so metal cannot be exposed
theres lots and lots of water traps on these and many other cars, but unless your fanatical regarding cleaning car and maintaining it 'which very few of us are'
then the big rust monster is gonna get it one day for sure!:lol: :lol:
 
MORF114

MORF114

Active Member
What we would usually do regarding rusty parts that people wanted done cheap would be to cut it out and replace area with spurious (none genuine) quarter and just use the area needed weld it all in bog,prime,paint (+ inside quarter). waxoyl the inside of quarter till its dripping out every crevis and we would totally clean the inside of arch and underseal the inner arch to protect it from stones and the elements.

zinc oxide is pretty good to use on bare steel if needs to be left for a couple of days before paint.

Make sure if you have bare steel that you treat it with a acid cleaner then wash it off with water before you apply any coats of primer because the salts in a fingerprint will start to rust away the panel.
some acid etch primers are good just use the activator as the cleaner. You have to wash it off with water even though it sounds strange to put water on bare steel.

Its a easy job for a decent panel shop. or diy if you've skills and tools.
 
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dan-hipgrave

Member
paz said:
So you think its the underseal? That might explain it, the sprayer was mega pissed off about it - wanted to sort it but obviously with the car being 6 hours away it probably wouldn't be the best way of saving money :lol:

He spent AGES doing it as well - thats a real shame :(

paz
Click to expand...
Needless to say i was gutted when the arch blistered up so quickly. When i get back from Le Mans next month it will be going in for treatment then :thumbsup:
 
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paz

Active Member
Real sorry about that pal, I wouldn't have sold it like that :(

What you over in Le mans for?

paz
 
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sadsy

New Member
The big rust monster is gonna get it one day for sure!:lol: :lol:[/quote]

I think unless you rip off the 1/4's and replace them, the rust monster will have you anyway!! i did my arches like bob said, because i didnt have a welder at the time, guess what, its comming through!:cry: there is a girl up the road from me with a pulsar but she has wheel arches on hers kinda like a 106 or a saxo, it spoils the "look" of the pulsar but it sure hides the rust, and i bet its propa rotten under there i tell thee!;-)
 
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Odin

Guest
Their is only one way to get rid of rust and that is to cut it back to good metal, Nothing else will work long term.



Rob
 
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dan-hipgrave

Member
paz said:
Real sorry about that pal, I wouldn't have sold it like that :(

What you over in Le mans for?

paz
Click to expand...
No worries mate, you didnt know it was going to do that and neither did the sprayer im sure.

Off to the 24hr race, this will be the 6th year ive been 8) Taking the R down, hoe it makes the journey ok...
 
gtir bean

gtir bean

New Member
you can get rear arch pannels for about £20 from a motor factors.there for a 5door sunny but the arch shape is the same and the rear part that goes is the same.just cut out the bad bit then cut the same bit out of the new pannel and weld it in.thats what i will be doing eventualy.
 
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sadsy

New Member
I enquired earlier with my panel supplyer, only 5 door available, unles you can find a similar arch, just dont go down the vgolf g60 blah blah route

i can put them in if you know a good sprayer, im in Hull east yorks though!
 
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