M
MORRISMINOR GTI-R
Guest
andy, what do you mean by not firing?just when the compression testers in theres no spark there :?
Do you have low compression pistons? 130psi is still below the minimum for standard compression pressure and well down for a new engine.
Have you tried a leak down test to see where the leak is?
It's the knocking that concerns me, you'll probably need to strip the engine again.
Which bearing did he have trouble fitting and why?
Have you tried a leak down test to see where the leak is?
It's the knocking that concerns me, you'll probably need to strip the engine again.
Which bearing did he have trouble fitting and why?
i would advise checking the HT lead orientation, ie; 1342 and remember cylinder bore wash ( fuel in cylinder, no spark ''washes'' oil on bore wall causes low compression !!!!!!! ) and ign timing, sorry but thats all i can think of...
failing this i would say that engine prob escecially as i remembered about coated piston crowns hope i'm wrong cos i'm soon doing mine
failing this i would say that engine prob escecially as i remembered about coated piston crowns hope i'm wrong cos i'm soon doing mine
Mr GTiR
New Member
HT leads are correct, and as for the pistons they are normal 8:1 compression ratio with a Tommei 1.2mm head gasket.
I spoke to the engine builder and there was no problem fitting the shells it was somthing else i got confused with.
From what i can see, i have the low oil indicator coming on in my clocks but goes when the car is reved, low compression on No. 4, shells knocking when reved to about 3k, and the fucking clutch still does not 'feel' right, can it get anyworse...........?
should find out what kind of damage this little lot has done on thur when the sump is taken off.
might be breaking the car this time next week..........
I spoke to the engine builder and there was no problem fitting the shells it was somthing else i got confused with.
From what i can see, i have the low oil indicator coming on in my clocks but goes when the car is reved, low compression on No. 4, shells knocking when reved to about 3k, and the fucking clutch still does not 'feel' right, can it get anyworse...........?
should find out what kind of damage this little lot has done on thur when the sump is taken off.
might be breaking the car this time next week..........
Uncle Winnet
New Member
ill have ur turbo dash and door cards and rear cards
john
john
And so the vultures swoop :lol:johnwillett992 said:
Sorry to here that you've still got problems, can't see how they could of got things so badly wrong :? the low compression on one cylinder could be a broken ring :?: and as for the knocking that doesn't sound good at all :shock: makes me wonder if they've left a bearing out :?: or maybe the pistons are touching the oil squirters? though this is unlikely as they would normally just break off :?
Either way it looks like another engine strip job to find the cause, was the crank reground :?: as maybe they've got the measurements wrong or wrong bearings etc
Uncle Winnet
New Member
Just using Johns log on cos i haven't got one.
I know the lad who built the engine and all was fine when it went together. I have looked at his car after the nissan technician. The pinking was in fact not there but a misfire. That severe the engine was trying to cut out constantly. I checked the leads and they were fine. No 3+4 plugs were faulty. Replaced his plugs and the misfire stopped. The oil burning seemed to stop after a couple of minutes now all plugs are firing. (obviously bore wash was occuring) In my opinion the bottom end rattle has come around from the engine being started with only two cylinders in operation causing the engine to work as a compressor and putting excessive strain on a brand new bottom end.
Although this rebuild is nothing to do with me i have said i will strip the bottom end for him to find the fault as i dont want a friend being accused of something he hasnt done.
Regards
Kieran
I know the lad who built the engine and all was fine when it went together. I have looked at his car after the nissan technician. The pinking was in fact not there but a misfire. That severe the engine was trying to cut out constantly. I checked the leads and they were fine. No 3+4 plugs were faulty. Replaced his plugs and the misfire stopped. The oil burning seemed to stop after a couple of minutes now all plugs are firing. (obviously bore wash was occuring) In my opinion the bottom end rattle has come around from the engine being started with only two cylinders in operation causing the engine to work as a compressor and putting excessive strain on a brand new bottom end.
Although this rebuild is nothing to do with me i have said i will strip the bottom end for him to find the fault as i dont want a friend being accused of something he hasnt done.
Regards
Kieran
Mr GTiR
New Member
Just to clear up. This problem with my car is nothing to do with the lad who built the engine. I have never put the blame on anyone and have never pointed the finger at anyone.
It now looks like it has been caused by 2 spark plugs not firing correctly.
Until the sump is taken off next weekend to check the state of the bottom end, i don't know what will hapen to my car...
Carl - low oil is indicated on the oil pressure gauage but as soon as the car is reved it goes up and the light on the dash goes out. When being driven the light on the dash goes out but comes back on again when the car stops. wired?
It now looks like it has been caused by 2 spark plugs not firing correctly.
Until the sump is taken off next weekend to check the state of the bottom end, i don't know what will hapen to my car...
Carl - low oil is indicated on the oil pressure gauage but as soon as the car is reved it goes up and the light on the dash goes out. When being driven the light on the dash goes out but comes back on again when the car stops. wired?
Sounds like you've got a serious oil pressure problem there which could be a few things
Knackered oil pump
Blocked oil pick up
problem with big end or main bearings eg excessive clearance which would also cause your knocking.
The fact that 2 spark plugs weren't firing shouldn't have done any damage to the engine really it would have just run really badly you'd have to have had it running along time to do any damage :shock: bore wash could have possible done some damage but shouldn't have caused a knock unless the cylinder had so much fuel in it that it hydroliced :shock:
It's not impossible that the oil pump has gone, but it'd be unlucky if it has. I think you'd be better taking the sump off and checking everything for tightness, failing that, I think you might be looking at stripping the bottom end to double check the bearing clearances etc.
A
antilag
Guest
yes shot blasted to keep with the shiny engine bay theme maybe sum was left in the channels?
coxie
New Member
:roll: i shot blasted the block at his request and did say to make sure when the engine was rebuilt to clean it all out, as it hadnt been ripped apart at that time.also when blasted all the holes and openings were covered over and sealed before blasting.i presume the engine builder would have cleaned any internal grit when he stripped the engine down. :? :? :?
Ouch!
I can say i have sand blasted many a block and head but you've gotta take all the core plugs out, oil ways and water to get the grit out with an air gun before you wash it off, as soon as you start the clean with degreaser/parafin etc the sand goes hard and is a nightmare to get out.
When i was an aprentice at an Engine Reconditioners, my cousin had the old sticking valve problem with a Rover Coupe Turbo thing. I rushed his head to get it back to him and didnt clean it properly resulting in the exhaust cam locking up in the head. As the cams run in the alloy head it totally fcuked the head.
I told him someone must have used too much silicone on the sump at some point and the oil pump must have picked up some and stopped the oil supply to the head...........if your reading this Mark, i'm sorry and owe you a beer!!
I can say i have sand blasted many a block and head but you've gotta take all the core plugs out, oil ways and water to get the grit out with an air gun before you wash it off, as soon as you start the clean with degreaser/parafin etc the sand goes hard and is a nightmare to get out.
When i was an aprentice at an Engine Reconditioners, my cousin had the old sticking valve problem with a Rover Coupe Turbo thing. I rushed his head to get it back to him and didnt clean it properly resulting in the exhaust cam locking up in the head. As the cams run in the alloy head it totally fcuked the head.
I told him someone must have used too much silicone on the sump at some point and the oil pump must have picked up some and stopped the oil supply to the head...........if your reading this Mark, i'm sorry and owe you a beer!!