Round 2
Project Shit Box (2021)
- Thread starter fubar andy
- Start date
Also I'm struggling to plumb certain piped/items together, nothing seems to be quite right...
I feel that the top arrow might be for the BOV vacuum?
But the other (lower arrow) is for the fuel pressure regulator?
I've also got a random boost controller pipe not connected to anything and I'm wondering if it needs to be plumbed into something to close the loop?
I feel that the top arrow might be for the BOV vacuum?
But the other (lower arrow) is for the fuel pressure regulator?
I've also got a random boost controller pipe not connected to anything and I'm wondering if it needs to be plumbed into something to close the loop?
gtirx2
Active Member
Picture on last page not to sure possibly the stock boost solenoid which you won't be using.
2nd pic ignition module normally sits on a bracket bolted to the side of the cylinder head with thermal paste between it.
Can be mounted anywhere really the cooler the better.
3rd pic top arrow is to the boost solenoid stock or aftermarket 3 port which I assume is what you are running.
Then from 3 port to actuator.
The 3rd port on an after marker boost solenoid can be left vent to atmosphere or plumbed back into the intake pipe like it does as stock.
Ideally for better boost control apparently you are best off having as short as possible pipe run between the above or even better instead of using the top arrow pressure source tap directly into the turbos compressure cover if possible.
Bottom arrow is fuel pressure regulator and Ideally only run a single line to this don't T of this line as any leaks and you will run lean.
This thread is how I have plumbed mine in with the charcoal canister removed hope it helps.
gti-r-us.forumotion.co.uk
2nd pic ignition module normally sits on a bracket bolted to the side of the cylinder head with thermal paste between it.
Can be mounted anywhere really the cooler the better.
3rd pic top arrow is to the boost solenoid stock or aftermarket 3 port which I assume is what you are running.
Then from 3 port to actuator.
The 3rd port on an after marker boost solenoid can be left vent to atmosphere or plumbed back into the intake pipe like it does as stock.
Ideally for better boost control apparently you are best off having as short as possible pipe run between the above or even better instead of using the top arrow pressure source tap directly into the turbos compressure cover if possible.
Bottom arrow is fuel pressure regulator and Ideally only run a single line to this don't T of this line as any leaks and you will run lean.
This thread is how I have plumbed mine in with the charcoal canister removed hope it helps.
Charcoal filter
Hi guys new on here but this site was highly recommended for tech info and problem solving I've got a charcoal filter that appears to be leaking boost from the
100% right, found some older pictures on a hard drive and that wasn't connected to anything before I took the engine out!
Looking back at pictures, this was NOT connected to anything and was literally connected to nothing, just hanging around in the engine bay!
Yes, I think I've worked that out!
It was connected to the make shift "bleed valve" as a temporary fix to controll the boost before looking to intall proper controller!
I looks like it ran down to the bleed valve and then it was connected to the actuator.
Bit confused here. "only run a single line" a single line to where?
On my old photos, I don't have it connected to anything!
Thanks for the link.This thread is how I have plumbed mine in with the charcoal canister removed hope it helps.
Charcoal filter
Hi guys new on here but this site was highly recommended for tech info and problem solving I've got a charcoal filter that appears to be leaking boost from the
The carbon canister went many years ago along with the idle control valve and all the crap round the back of the car.
I just have to remember which pipe goes to what on the turbo install now!
gtirx2
Active Member
If it was not connected to anything the car would of run massively lean on boost.
The fuel pressure regulator works on a 1 to 1 ratio so every 1 psi of boost it raises the fuel pressure 1psi if that makes sense.
I used the top smaller vacuum line from the black vacuum box on the back of the plenum as it's the correct size so no down size connectors needed and less chance of any leaks.
The fuel pressure regulator works on a 1 to 1 ratio so every 1 psi of boost it raises the fuel pressure 1psi if that makes sense.
I used the top smaller vacuum line from the black vacuum box on the back of the plenum as it's the correct size so no down size connectors needed and less chance of any leaks.
So the black vacuum box is long gone on my car.
All those bits and the idle control valve has been binned.
So I guess I need to find another point to plug the FPR into I guess.
I take it, this 1 to 1 ratio/psi is pre throttle bodies pressure then?
So I think I've worked out all the locations for the hose and fuel lines etc.
Need to sort out a heat sink for the ignition module
Inline oil filter for the turbo is here.
Just need new brake discs ordering and then it should be a case of putting most of it back together over the weekends I have free in June and July.
If anyone has any suggestions on decent mapping companies in the North of the UK would be helpful...as everyone I've spoken to seems unwilling or not interested...
Need to sort out a heat sink for the ignition module
Inline oil filter for the turbo is here.
Just need new brake discs ordering and then it should be a case of putting most of it back together over the weekends I have free in June and July.
If anyone has any suggestions on decent mapping companies in the North of the UK would be helpful...as everyone I've spoken to seems unwilling or not interested...
So been busy in the garage now I'm back from jolly days...
So I've got a bit of work done, however...
Fitting the new turbo, I've got a little clearance issue with the turbo inlet.
As you can see from the photos below the intake of the turbo now hits the gearbox housing.
This wasn't a current issue previously as the inlet was smaller however with this larger intake of around 75mm.
I'm a little stumped on how do get around this.
I've seen other posts, where people have shaved off part of the gearbox housing.
I have no intention of doing this however I'm wondering who is another way around this issue.
Custom manifold, chop off the inlet, spacers for the manifold?
Any suggestions will be very much appreciated!
So I've got a bit of work done, however...
Fitting the new turbo, I've got a little clearance issue with the turbo inlet.
As you can see from the photos below the intake of the turbo now hits the gearbox housing.
This wasn't a current issue previously as the inlet was smaller however with this larger intake of around 75mm.
I'm a little stumped on how do get around this.
I've seen other posts, where people have shaved off part of the gearbox housing.
I have no intention of doing this however I'm wondering who is another way around this issue.
Custom manifold, chop off the inlet, spacers for the manifold?
Any suggestions will be very much appreciated!
Sailor96
Member
I've seen many cut and welds on the aluminum cold side housing work really well. You would only have to remove the housing, have it cut and welded with a mandrel bent aluminum tube to direct it away front the gearbox. If you didn't want to change your current intake setup have it welded with a bend away and then subsequently towards the gearbox, offsetting it's centerline axis to point the same direction as OEM
Shortening the inlet and replacing the hose clamp type to a quick connect fitting (or V-band fitting). Then as long as your intake pipe doesn't interfere with the gearbox/ made a custom intake, it wouldn't interfere
Examples somewhat like these
An even more cost effective way would be to cut the inlet, to say, a little over the minimum needed to secure a silicone hose with a suitable hose clamp. Having the hose bend away instead of a hard pipe. Sine the inlet should be almost at a vacuum there is little risk of it blowing off, so removing the small lip on the housings inlet wouldn't be detrimental
Shortening the inlet and replacing the hose clamp type to a quick connect fitting (or V-band fitting). Then as long as your intake pipe doesn't interfere with the gearbox/ made a custom intake, it wouldn't interfere
Examples somewhat like these
An even more cost effective way would be to cut the inlet, to say, a little over the minimum needed to secure a silicone hose with a suitable hose clamp. Having the hose bend away instead of a hard pipe. Sine the inlet should be almost at a vacuum there is little risk of it blowing off, so removing the small lip on the housings inlet wouldn't be detrimental
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Cathode
Active Member
Andy, i may have a spacer knocking about for this very reason that fits on the head for the exhaust mani. I can't remember how thick it is though. Do you think you'd be interested?
I had a 10mm spacer laser cut to fit the exhaust manifold to clear the gear box for my turbo. I think what i have is a template but it's essentially a spacer. It's metal. I don't think it's 10mm thick though. I 'll have a look anyway.
I had a 10mm spacer laser cut to fit the exhaust manifold to clear the gear box for my turbo. I think what i have is a template but it's essentially a spacer. It's metal. I don't think it's 10mm thick though. I 'll have a look anyway.
Yes 264's
They were straight drop in replacements.
They've been in the car for over 20 years, so I can't really comment on how effective they are...
Yeah the site was down, but I asked some another OC member to look into it and hey presto we are back.
So...I'm totally overwhelmed with work at the moment, and I can't get a single second to even think about sorting the car let alone think about what I need to get done.
For the moment, I'm going to have to leave the build until my work load is reduced as I can't even get basic jobs at home sorted!
For the moment, I'm going to have to leave the build until my work load is reduced as I can't even get basic jobs at home sorted!
I could be, could you let me know how thick this spacer is?
Have you got any photos of it?
I may look at this option, although I found a silcone reducer in my garage last weekend that fits perfectly.
So if I can get a spacer for the manifold and not have to change the housing inlet, that would be best.
If not I might look at having the intlet shaved down or modifed.
Thankfully, my work load has calmed down, so I can finally breathe and think about getting the car sorted again.