Another 'Not Starting Post'

Sunny-D

Member
Jumped in the car this morning, turned it over and it just wouldnt fire up. The sound of it turning over seemed different than normal, initially it nearly started but then just keep turning over.
First i checked the fuel pump but that was buzzing, then popped the bonnet and the engine bay stunk of fuel so im guessing its something to do with the spark.
Did a fault code check but it just flashed slow, slow, pause, slow, slow ect. Tried it again and got 55. I didnt really have time to have a proper look over the car so i left it untill now.
I have just tried it again and after 10 secs of turning it over it spluttered into life, and now starts every time? Anyone got any ideas of what this could be, i dont fancy it dieing miles away from home.
 

PobodY

Moderators
Staff member
You flooded it, which fouled the plugs; are they iridium or platinum by any chance?

The precious metal ones have a very fine tip that is far more prone to fouling than the copper cores; it's one of the reasons I changed over.

As to how it flooded in the first place; I'd guess the plugs were already fouled so the ECU just kept putting more fuel in (which only made it worse).

It's a suggestion anyway.
 

Sunny-D

Member
I'll check the plugs in the morning then. forgot to add, when i eventually got it started it stalled after 5-10 secs of ticking over. All seems fine now though, im thinking if its not the plugs maybe its the fpr?
 

skiddusmarkus

Active Member
My 1st thought was flooding but I thought I read somewhere on here that you couldn't flood these engines?

I got those plugs mentioned for abou £2 each off ebay so bought 2 sets.
 

Sunny-D

Member
Had a look at the plugs and they were a little sooty so gave them a clean up and attempted to gap them, car started ok but there's a slight on/off feeling on slight throttle. Is it possible my lambda sensor is playing up causing the plugs to foul and the jerky on/off feeling?

The plugs are bcr8es and have only done 750-1000miles and the dizzy/leads/rotor where all replaced with oe stuff 500 miles ago.
 

Sunny-D

Member
I checked the tps today and got a reading of 0.42v, so i adjusted it to 0.48v and all seemed well. After two minutes of idleing the bloody thing cut out again, it restarted but was running really lumpy so i checked the tps again and got 2.74v nomatter what position the throttle was in?

According to the sticky, it says to unplug the tps and check the resistance between the center and lower pin. I took of the plug and took a reading direct from the tps, is this right? the multimeter was set at 2000k and read 007 but wouldnt budge?
 

RO_SUNNY

Active Member
change the plug's there fouling up. put ngk bcr8es in it
Danny this is what I have done and didn't helped me at all......it overfuelled like hell (like there was nothing hapening at all)
so..........I put some standard copper cored plugs and it started spot on..........azlso the exhaust fumes are not black and smelling like fuel.
...................

My opinion is change the plugs with some standard copper cored and then try again.
 

Fusion Ed

Active Member
Sounds like a sensor playing up, use grade 7 plugs if stock don't need 8 on a car unless its approx 350+ hp. All else fails bring it to me ;)
 

Sunny-D

Member
The car is starting ok now but the idle crept up to around 1700-2000rpm, so ive junked all the pcv pipes which has dropped it to 1k but highlighted a missfire on tick over.
The plugs are getting covered in soot very quickly now aswell which is probably what caused the initial flooding. What would cause it to over fuel and missfire?
 

Sunny-D

Member
The engine cut out again today about 5secs after starting it. Its the first time its been started in a week or so, so done a fault code check and came back with 11 (crank angle sensor), could this be why it randomly stalls? im guessing something else is making it run rich though?
 

campbellju

Moderators
Staff member
If the CAS is not working then the ECU has no idea of timing for fuel or spark.

Borrow a dizzy off someone else as it contains the CAS. If that fixes it then check the rotating disc in the CAS is tight as I've seen these slip on cars and with a PFC the car gives similar results of fouled plugs and poor running.

If you don't feel confident taking your CAS a part then just source another unit.

Jim
 

Sunny-D

Member
Cheers Jim i'll give that a go.

The fault codes have been cleared and its still stalling but not showing 11 anymore?

I thought i would try the lambda test using mode II but after 10 secs of running in mode II the engine dies but now seems to run when not in any diagnostic mode.

For some reason the fuel pump doesnt make a priming noise every time the ignition is turned on, does it only prime if there isnt enough presure in the system?
 
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