URGENT!!! -Battery Light and Electrical Power Dying on me...

[Rishi]

Right after my injector resistor pack went on me we set up a live feed from the boken wire in the resistor pack direct to the battery... This temporarily solved the problem... On my way home I noticed the battery light slowly coming on followed be my electrics failing on me - lights dimming, stereo being funny, injectors not working properly etc...

When I got home my car was dead out of power...

I fitted a new injector resistor pack today and had to jump start the car... The battery light has stayed on... I went for a quick drive and the car quickly lost all electrical power...

What could this be...??? A really really flat battery or could it be the Alternator not working...

I always thought that once the car was started that the alternator took care of the electrics working...???


Thanks,


Rishi[/b]

 

[zia]

do you have volt meter ?check battery voltage leak using tester how quickly is it being discharged.check current from alternator

zia

 

[Fast Guy]

Check your fusible links are ok, you might have blown one of them, if not I think your alternator might be dead.
Could you not just bridge/repair the broken wire if you could get to it?

 

[Rishi]

Check your fusible links are ok, you might have blown one of them, if not I think your alternator might be dead.
Could you not just bridge/repair the broken wire if you could get to it?

What are fusilble links exactly...??? Its just a bit strange how I get up a live feed and then the battery dies along with the electrics... :?


Repair the broken wire...? Do you mean from the resistor pack...? Well someone moved it under the induction kit and its ended up getting wet all the time and was very badly corroded...



Rishi

 

[sypher]

setting up a constant +12v suply to the injectors COULD drain the battery when keys out the car as normally ignition supplied to injectors and could be earthing through ecu BUT!!! this would hold open the injectors, releasing all fuel in the rail at that time needing a few attempts to start and then would miss fire for a short time. but not cause battery light to stay on when started, as the other guys already said you need to check the output voltage and amperage. unladen i would expect about 14.4v@approx'60-75 amps(u cant use leads to check the amps coz it'll blow the 20amp fuse in the meter).. to check current consumption you need to put the amp meter in series between the neg lead and neg pole of battery and should be no more than 0.05amps(THIS IS WITH EVERYTHING OFF AND KEYS IN YOUR POCKETS AND DOORS CLOSED) could also check lead continuety as you may have disturbed a dodgy connection as this only happened after you touched it. if u don't have a multimeter u can buy one for approx £25 from some where like argos or a motor factor these aren't as good as a fluke meter but will do for your tests oh where is this resistor thing you had a prob with as i asked on here before but nobody knew or would tell me

 

[Rishi]

I was just thinking that its unlikely for the alternator to suddenly stop working like that... The injector would be using the battery for the best part of 2hours plus the alternator would then be in a losing battle to keep the rest of the car going plus contantly charge the battery that little bit more than usual... Also worth noting is that it is the Micra K10 battery in the car rather than the giant £65 GTiR battery...

Now that the battery is completely flat, would the alternator be strong enough to charge a fully drained battery and keep the cars electrics going...? Just a thought becuse the alternator doesn't really need to charge the battery much as its usually nearly full and only used for starting and for interior lights when the engine is off...


Rishi

 

[sypher]

can u jump start the car then leave it to run

 

[sypher]

can u start the engine with just the car battery but the light is on. if so battery good which leaves altenator and wiring. you could have disturbed a corroded +12v lead(quite big) or earth. take a jump lead and put it between the engine on a METAL surface and the neg pole of the battery, this last thing will check your earth to do the +12v you are gonna have to get dirty and if all good then you need an altenator unless the small exciter wire which illuminates the light is shorted to earth.