A
AJ4
Guest
actually nigel, I'm looking for some metal to make the brackets !! maybe you can help me out ? I'll send you a txt in a minute as I was going to look at a fabricators this afternoon...
Reverse not selectable
Hi,
Wonder if anyone has come across this situation. The reverse gear is not selectable via the shift lever. All of the other gears are fine though.
Apparently this is usually the reverse check spring, so I ordered one from Nissan and have taken the gearbox casing off to replace it.
The original spring was intact though and there is no obvious sign of a problem. The gear can be selected by moving the selector or by moving the check lever inside the box but as soon as you try and move the shift lever at the same time the lever just freezes up.
What else in the box could it be? Any ideas?
Looking on the service manual there is another part related to reverse behind the final drive wheel but don't fancy taking this or the gear shafts out unless I have to.
Cheers,
Paul
Hi,
Wonder if anyone has come across this situation. The reverse gear is not selectable via the shift lever. All of the other gears are fine though.
Apparently this is usually the reverse check spring, so I ordered one from Nissan and have taken the gearbox casing off to replace it.
The original spring was intact though and there is no obvious sign of a problem. The gear can be selected by moving the selector or by moving the check lever inside the box but as soon as you try and move the shift lever at the same time the lever just freezes up.
What else in the box could it be? Any ideas?
Looking on the service manual there is another part related to reverse behind the final drive wheel but don't fancy taking this or the gear shafts out unless I have to.
Cheers,
Paul
T
tro||
Guest
could be the actual rod from gearstick to box
Well you can select every other gear from the stick but when you try and select reverse the stick won't move down. Just as if there is no gate there. When doing this and looking inside the box you don't even see the reverse gear even move a mm, just as if something else was blocking it.
D
dick dastedly
Guest
does the selector fork look worn as i had a box that did the same
Doesn't look worn, thing is when you are trying to move the gear stick into reverse you can't even see the selector even trying. Or to put it another way from the neutral position going down into the gate the gear lever only moves about 1mm (if that) before it is blocked by something so I don't think it is even getting to the point of trying to move the selector.
One question, and it's been a while since I drove it and can't remember this. Do you have to go across in neutral to by first/second and then back across again to by 5th/reverse before you can go into reverse normally? Just wondering if moving across to first resets something....
...I'm going to try and disconnect the gear lever to see if that helps in any way.
One question, and it's been a while since I drove it and can't remember this. Do you have to go across in neutral to by first/second and then back across again to by 5th/reverse before you can go into reverse normally? Just wondering if moving across to first resets something....
...I'm going to try and disconnect the gear lever to see if that helps in any way.
A
AJ4
Guest
Its nearly done now, I'm just doing the exhaust and then its ready to go !
I have a website 'blog' on another site that I've been using to keep a track of the progress, once its finished I'll post the link on here so people can see what was involved.
I have a website 'blog' on another site that I've been using to keep a track of the progress, once its finished I'll post the link on here so people can see what was involved.
CruiseGTi-R
Member
Do something else with det sensor
Right, I’ve still Code 34, boring I know. Two garages have tried to change the det sensor for my new one, but it’s stuck fast. Both said they’d have to drop the engine despite following all the how-to’s etc. Both could get a spanner on it but bugared if they could turn it.
I’m not about to fork out dropping the engine for the det sensor alone. I’m sure theres a list of other stuff which could be done at the time but until I snap a gearbox its not worth while.
So, my options:
1). Run it with the fault code, bit slower than normal but safe at least.
2). I’ve wb afr and egt probes, and can data log those and look for any signs of det with egt drops (would it be obvious?).
3). Wire the new det sensor to somewhere else (preferably more ****ing accessible) on the block and hope its just as effective (could be tested with hammer taps etc?).
4). Stamp on throttle to limiter, side step clutch and repeat until clutch disintergrates, then can justify engine drop :-D .
I like the idea of 3, think someone on here did it too, but not sure how effective. Is the oe location the ONLY place it can go?
Cheers, toby
Right, I’ve still Code 34, boring I know. Two garages have tried to change the det sensor for my new one, but it’s stuck fast. Both said they’d have to drop the engine despite following all the how-to’s etc. Both could get a spanner on it but bugared if they could turn it.
I’m not about to fork out dropping the engine for the det sensor alone. I’m sure theres a list of other stuff which could be done at the time but until I snap a gearbox its not worth while.
So, my options:
1). Run it with the fault code, bit slower than normal but safe at least.
2). I’ve wb afr and egt probes, and can data log those and look for any signs of det with egt drops (would it be obvious?).
3). Wire the new det sensor to somewhere else (preferably more ****ing accessible) on the block and hope its just as effective (could be tested with hammer taps etc?).
4). Stamp on throttle to limiter, side step clutch and repeat until clutch disintergrates, then can justify engine drop :-D .
I like the idea of 3, think someone on here did it too, but not sure how effective. Is the oe location the ONLY place it can go?
Cheers, toby
When I took off my inlet manifold, I had pretty good access to the knock sensor. I took the plug off to clean it and would have thought you could get a socket to it easily enough. I didn't try but maybe someone else can comment.
Jim
Jim
CruiseGTi-R
Member
Everything has pointed towards having to go in from underneath.
I really like the idea of relocating it - must be a way.
I really like the idea of relocating it - must be a way.
CruiseGTi-R
Member
I would hope to find somewhere on the block, preferably at the front.
I've read about all sorts of funny places to relocate on RX7 and Honda forums, some people reckon its ok, others say you'll never pick up knock if it isn't in oe position, gets all very complicated with frequency cancellation and various other rubbish.
So did you run a cable straight from the det sensor to the ecu pin (is that the way they are wired?)
I've read about all sorts of funny places to relocate on RX7 and Honda forums, some people reckon its ok, others say you'll never pick up knock if it isn't in oe position, gets all very complicated with frequency cancellation and various other rubbish.
So did you run a cable straight from the det sensor to the ecu pin (is that the way they are wired?)
C
crackerjack
Guest
I got to mine by going in from the passengers side. seemed to be easier getting to it from there than going from underneith.. just a shame the one i replaced it with was dead too 
replaced while engine was out 2nd time.
replaced while engine was out 2nd time. 
CruiseGTi-R
Member
The second place tried all sorts of spanners with special end bends and ring ratchets etc, but just couldn't get the torque on it without the thing coming off.
It sounds like it has seized, so I can't be arsed to tear off the inlet manny and spend a weekend on it only to find I can't turn it anyway. Probably has to be drilled out.
So really I gotta think about putting it somewhere else or run without it.
Anyone know the block front/sides well enough to know of any bolt holes/brackets where I can retro fit it?
It sounds like it has seized, so I can't be arsed to tear off the inlet manny and spend a weekend on it only to find I can't turn it anyway. Probably has to be drilled out.
So really I gotta think about putting it somewhere else or run without it.
Anyone know the block front/sides well enough to know of any bolt holes/brackets where I can retro fit it?