Raising the compression?

Godzilla

New Member
So really I'm kind of in that ball park already just get the bits I want to make it Less stressful on the engine so it gets that power easier without trying to hard ,
 
M

m22_pre

Guest
i have everything part from the head gasket, ignitin amplifier and boost valve. I do have to be fitted a z32 , 550cc injectors and i will have a downpipe with screamer by the time i want it mapping aswell. The safc is fitted apart from the airflow wire as i dnt want to mess with the settings of that as im not 100% sure how to do it
 

snoon

New Member
If your going to run the Unichip then I would suggest John Nobals in Chesterfield. As for the Mines...not sure who could do that but the only person I would recommend is Fusion Edd but he's way down South.

To add to what Andy has said -

When I had my unichip and was still on standard MAF and 550 injectors I used Nobel in Chesterfield. They charge £70 an hour and it was 2 hours for small changes and 3 hours when I'd had my forgies fitted. I thought they were the nuts and always banged on about how I trusted them as there all fairly oldish blokes who knew there stuff. But then when I wanted to ditch the MAF and use a Z32 they pretty much just told me not to. It was like they just couldn't be arsed. So I haven't been back since. To be fair to them though there was other customers paying £30k bills while i was in the waiting room, so can't knock them too much for not wanting mess with my old nissan and second hand Z32!

Got a Haltech now and will probably be using The racing line when I get some cash to do the mapping as D Tech in Ossett where I got the Haltech from is not open anymore. Heard nothing but good things about Matt's mapping and they made my turbo elbow/downpipe too so have used them before. Hear he is good with chipped standard ecu's too.

:thumbsup:
 

nismoboy

New Member
gearbox bolts size wtb

does anyone know the correct size these are? im pretty sure there a 12mm thread but not sure on the pitch? anyone help? ps there the same as the standard head bolts too if it helps.
 

MORF114

Active Member
Speedo stopped working

About 6 weeks ago i replaced my speedo clock with a 280k mines unit, then about 2 weeks ago i think my starter motor fooked out on me so i have fixed that and didnt drive the car since, i recently prolapsed a disc and im a cabbage until i get fixed but the drugs are good so i decided to go for a blast last night only to find that my speedo isnt working any more :doh:

We had the dash out and looked under the bonnet around the gearbox sensor thingy device and all looks good on both sides, as i was thinking i may have knocked a plug undone or the wire has come off the sensor while i was changing the starter, we put the original clocks back in but no joy it still doesnt work so i m thinking i may need a new sensor in the box which looks like a joy to fit :sad:

any body had a similar problem or know where else i could be looking to try and fix it any help would be much appreciated .


Cheers

Karl
 

PobodY

Moderators
Staff member
Before you go changing the sensor; does the tripmeter still work?
As the two are linked (speedometer and trip), if it's the sender they should both stop turning. However if it's something to do with the clocks (or maybe the wiring) it'll only be that gauge.
I didn't think the sender just 'went', I thought you had to put up with months of erratic readings until all the teeth are stripped and it doesn't spin any more.

I'm told that the speed sensor isn't too bad... if you have small hands and don't have the Y-bracket. It's only one bolt holding it down, but it has an oil seal so may require a good tug to get it free.
Is there another sensor that uses the same plug? Like coolant temperature maybe? Could they have got switched around?

Hopefully someone who is a little more helpful than me will post soon.
 

PobodY

Moderators
Staff member
Hey that's some good advice!
Is it likely to be the same for all broken clocks; dry solder joint on that component maybe?
 

Thor

Member
i had gave an electric specialist the clock and he told me there was 1 dry solder joint but the poti has an issue too. so you can change them alone if you can solder!
 

MORF114

Active Member
Worth a shot at that i have 2 sets of clocks but it seems odd that both sets dont work anymore and this morn when i started the car my fuel gauge stopped working too although it has a full tank of gas so something isnt right somewhere strange for it to stop working when the car hardly moves, but gets worked on pretty much everyweekend something breaks again and again and then i get a surprise and its something new lol

I'll get the clocks taken out and have a look at the wiring behind the dash and that poti thingy majig try change the trip counter around as im only changing the clocks around and not the mile o meter or the k counter.

Also the trip and odo dont work, and in 4th gear flat out at about 4-5000rpm the rev counter goes ballistic shooting up and down the whole rev range a few times.

Ha hA i love my R its like having a mentally unstable girlfriend some days she works well other days shes a absolute bitch.
 
R

riske

Guest
Clutch or gearbox woes

Hi guys,

Basically had this problem for ages and tried most things to fix it.

I'm finding it very hard to put into gears sometimes, it also crunches if i try to go to 5th and reverse sometimes. I have replaced the slave, master and upgraded to a braided hose. I have also flushed through with brand new fluid and bled up thousands of times and pedal doesnt get any better. It is very wierd because sometimes it will be perfect into all gears. In the past i have had to reweld the pedal mounting bracket to the bulk and a brand new pedal box put in. Still not fixed. Thing is that if i leave the car for a few mins it starts working again???
I have a paddle clutch which doesnt slip and has very stiff pedal.

I'm really stumped guys with this one. Any help would be appreciated. think i may just get the whole system, clutch and clutch fork replaced and it may sort it but you never know. I juyst want to have fun again when driving and not constantly have to fight for it to get into gear.

oh yeah the travel in my pedal is only 2.5inches from floor to top
 

NME_RR

New Member
Sounds like a bent/cracked release bearing fork, with the 2.5" travel common problem with heavy clutches!

Box off im afriad
Any other ideas?
 

olliecast

Active Member
think i`ve got this with mine too. Doesn`t seem to be getting worse though. need to see if i can see round the gator on my box
 
R

riske

Guest
So box out and new clutch fork. Thought so. At least it all should be done and dusted after.... i hope. Cheers
 
P

pulsarboby

Guest
yeah i would say clutch fork aswell tbh. if you want me to make you an uprated one when its out then give me a shout
 
R

riske

Guest
Yeah probably go with what we spoke about previously bobby, i'll book a time in once i have some money. We will have to look at the condition of the other bits to determin if they need changing too. What clutch has Craig gone with? Pedal feel good?
 

mprice501

New Member
if your clutch fork is slightly bent could you increase the length of the slave cylinder rod to increase pedal travel? mate of mines car had a problem where his clutch was just biting off the floor this seemed a problem with crunching into gears sometimes because the clutch wasnt engaging properly.
 
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