Oil advice and recommendations here

olliecast

Active Member
youngsyp said:
The 10w60 is only thicker at higher temperatures, not from cold. That's the '10' part of the oil viscosity.


P.s. Just to add, I'll be switching to a 5w40 at the next oil change, for the better cold start protection. My oil has never been over 110 degrees C so, I don't need the extended temp range of the 10w50. Although, I'm sure the 5w40 will offer good protection up to and slightly beyond 130 degrees C.
so would you say then that 5w-50 could be better for people who are running the big oil coolers and don`t require the temp protection of the 10w50? I`m running a 16 row mocal now and even completely flat out for 20 mins it not going over 100 degrees.

it does take about 10-15 mins to get up to 70 degrees though, even with a bloody thermostat on the sandwich plate!!
 

oilman

Member
When hot they are both the same SAE50 so wont make much of a difference.

Atthose temos you can also use a 5w-40.

Cheers

Guy
 

oilman

Member
Its quite good for a semi synthetic, however in a GTIR especially a modded or hard used one I would use nothing but synthetic.

Cheers

Guy
 

nickr

New Member
My rear diff is getting quite whiny and probably on its way out, its starting to make banging noises. I've got redline heavyweight shockproof in there at the moment (it's been about 25,000km's and 1.5yrs), is there anything else I can try to quiet it down? Also I'm about to try this relatively new Shell oil available in North America. http://www.shell.com/home/Framework...html/iwgen/products/product_rotellasynth.html What's your impression based on its specs?

A few sti guys locally tried it and had oil analysis done on them and it seemed quite good.
 

oilman

Member
The only thing that will keep it quiet is viscosity, and it does not get thicker then the Redline Heavy shock, so you may be stuck with it unlees you want to try some mystery additives.

The Shell rotella is ok, but to be honest for porformance we have much better already available in the uk.

Cheers

Guy.
 
Im now using the Halfords 5W/50 Fully Synthetic Track Day Oil, will that be alright?

I changed it earlier to this...i was using that Mobil S 10w/40 Part Syn, but i wasn't very keen on that :S

Also...what sort of oil pressure should i be looking at using that 5w/50....any ideas? it seems a bit on the low side ATM
 

Godzilla

New Member
hi oilman just wondering what i should do iv only owned the car since november but am wanting to change all the oils in it previous owners have been usin millers 10w60 fully synthetic 5L,
and also millers 75w90 for gearbox 7L is this any good or should i change to anything else as when engine is fully up to temp the gears get bit harder to select maybe old oil degrading (not sure) also regarding the engine oil the last owner i think used lucas oil 10w40 is this rubbish stuff maybe this is why she gets bit sluggish on boost while running hot? any help much appreciated

also would it make much difference to start using silkolene pro s instead or millers etc
 

oilman

Member
I have debated this many times on many car forums and I know there are some that do not agree with me however I have never had a reasonable technical explanation why 10w-60 is in fact suitable, it's certainly not mentioned in the handbooks of many modern highly tuned performance cars, with the exception of some Alfa Romeos for "spirited driving" whatever that is meant supposed mean.

Explaining this is diffucult so there may be questions but I'll try my best to explain it in plain English!

Lets look at what oil specs actually mean and particularly the higher number which is in fact the oils SAE number (the "w" number is in fact the cold crank viscosity and measured in a different way) The SAE number is measured by the oils viscosity at 100degC.

Your cars require according to the manufacturers specs, sae 30, 40 and in some cases sae 50.

To attain the relevent sae number the oil has to be at 100degC (no thinner than)

SAE 30 11cst approx
SAE 40 14cst approx
SAE 50 18cst approx

Centistokes (cst) is the measure of a fluid's resistance to flow (viscosity). It is calculated in terms of the time required for a standard quantity of fluid at a certain temperature to flow through a standard orifice. The higher the value, the more viscous the fluid.

As viscosity varies with temperature, the value is meaningless unless accompanied by the temperature at which it is measured. In the case of oils, viscosity is generally reported in centistokes (cst) and usually measured at 40degC and 100degC.

SAE 60 is in fact 24cst viscosity at 100degC!

This is 33% thicker than an sae 50, 70% thicker than an sae 40 and over 100% thicker than an sae 30!

So, what's the problem with this thickness?

Well, this is measured at 100degC and at lower temps (70-90degC) all oils are thicker than at 100degC so the problem is compounded to some extent.

The downsides of such a thick oil (when not specified) are as follows:

Additional friction, heat and wear.
A reduction of BHP at the wheels
Lower fuel consumption

The thicker the oil is the more friction and drag and the more power the engine needs to move it around the engine which inevitably translates to less at the wheels.

So, when do we spec a thicker oil?

Well, you will probably have seen us on occassions recommending a 10w-50 but only in these circumstances.

1. If the car is heavily modded and heat/oil temperatures are excessive.
2. If the car is used on track and heat/oil temperatures are excessive.
3. If it's required by the handbook.

Our criteria for this is based on oil temps as an sae 40 semi-synthetic can handle around 110degC for limited periods whereas a proper synthetic sae 40 can hande 120-130degC for prolonged periods due to its thermal stability.

Once you see more than say 120degC for prolonged periods an sae 50 is adviseable as it is 18cst at 100degC and still 11cst at 130degC! This is in fact the same as an sae 30 at 100degC.

More importantly at 90degC an sae 40 is 15cst, an sae 50 is 20cst and an sae 60 is 30cst!

In a worst case scenario with thick oils (when not required) is that you will experience air entrainment and cavitation inside the bearings at high RPM. Not clever stuff!

I know this is technical stuff but oil is a combination of science and engineering and few people know enough about it to make an informed choice. Your engine would prefer and benefit from the correct oil.

Cheers
Guy
 
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