No boost - at all!

[geetee]

Right - I've just taken my bleed valve off (was setup to about .9 bar).

Reconnected up the pipe to the actuator and the 2 pipes to the Wastegate Solenoid thing...

This ran fine for a couple of short trips - boosting to about 10.5 / 11 psi.

Now there is NO boost at all, unless I totally floor it - then it will make 5 psi if pushed.

This isn't recified by turning off for a while to reset the ecu - and there's no fault codes showing (shows 505).

What else might cause this other than "safe-mode"?

I think I might put the bleed valve back in!! I only took it out cos the clutch has started slipping in 3rd and 4th on boost...

Any thoughts?

Cheers
GeeTee 8)

 

[Shaun]

Try by-passing the solenoid so that the vacum pipe is straight from the plenum to the actuator this should give you 0.7 bar(so i'm told),this would then rule out the actuator if you were then getting boost and would point to the solenoid :!:

 

[Fast Guy]

Is the restrictor pipe still there? If you don't have the restrictor I believe you'll only make low boost. Maybe your actuator is dying? If the diaphragm splits inside it won't work as advertised. Other than that , just check you have reconnected everything as it should be or put it back the way it was and see if it works as before.

 

[Rishi]

Try by-passing the solenoid so that the vacum pipe is straight from the plenum to the actuator this should give you 0.7 bar(so i'm told),this would then rule out the actuator if you were then getting boost and would point to the solenoid :!:

You are right... This does work... Just get a long length of boost pipe and attach from the Actuator to the Plenum...

Make sure you have the restrictor pipe in or you'll only boost about 0.4bar



Rishi

 

[geetee]

Right - I've put it back the way it was - on the bleed valve setup I had before......

But still the same

Could this mean that the actuator diaphragm has split or the turbo gone??

How do you get the actuator off / apart to inspect it - and what to check?

And what's the easiest way to check the turbo - does it need to come off?

Help!! I miss the boost!!

Cheers
GeeTee

 

[sypher]

the things that spring to mind to me are
1. DISASTER your compressor/turbine shaft has broken
2. the wastegate actuator spring is so weak it can only hold 1>2 psi
3. the wastegate is stuck open (possibly seized or the actuator rod is of the poppet valve)
4. as said above the black pipe with the green ring on it that is the restrictor pipe is missing

 

[Fast Guy]

Yuo could check the actuator or the car as long as you can pyhsically see the rod moving or not. Just disconnect the boost hose to it and get a foot pump (or something similar) with a pressure gauge on it and connect it to the boost hose. Now pump some air in and see if/when the rod starts moving and see if it stays there or doesn't. It's a very basic method in that the pressures won't be that accurate, but it should give you an idea if things are working or not.

 

[geetee]

Is it easiest to see the actuator rod from underneath the car?

It seems to be obscured by the exhaust manifold from above

I'll have a go at sticking a footpump on it tomorrow when it's light again..... roll on the clocks going forward, when I can tinker in the evenings too

As an aside.... I can't see any restrictor pipe - where's it supposed to be located....

However, it's probably a moot point as I'm using a bleed valve and it's been happily boosting to 14psi for a year now..... until I messed with it.. when will I learn :?

Cheers!
GeeTee

 

[Fast Guy]

Gotto admit, I had a look at mine earlier and it isn't easy to see. :? Make sure you have a gauge on the foot pump so you don't put too much pressure into the actuator.

 

[geetee]

Well... it looks like turbo off time

I can just about get a couple of fingers on the Actuator rod - and with the footpump attached to the actuator (standard footpump connector seals nicely on the actuator) - the rod moves smoothly when pressure is applied, and holds until the pressure is released.

It's impossible to tell if the other end is still actually attached properly though...

So I guess the next step is to whip the turbo off and see what's what.... never done it before, it'll probably take me an age!

Just need to work out what gaskets etc. I need to get hold of before diving in!

Cheers
(A very depressed)
GeeTee

 

[charlie]

The front heatshield held on with 4 bolts is fairly easy to remove, you can take that off and get to the end where the actuator rod joins the arm from the wastegate (just about) at least you can check it with that.


Just out of curiosity- if you completely disconnect the feed to the actuator, what boost does it make then (dont push it too hard because boost will be unlimited) its worth a check.

 

[geetee]

Running without the Actuator connected :shock: - gives zero boost still - unless absolutely floored, when it gives about 5psi.

Turbo's coming off me thinks

Cheers
GeeTee

 

[geetee]

Right - having spent most of yesterday and today stripping the fooker down (every single b@st@rd bolt and nut firmly siezed or rusted / rounded).

I can see that the far end of the actuator rod is off the valve.... I presume this should be held on with a circlip...

I guess I'm not gonna be able to clip a new one on without pulling the manifold and tubby off - I've got the the point now where all I need to undo is the exhaust manifold from the head.

Anyone know the part number of the circlip :?

Cheers
GeeTee 8)

 

[Jamz]

all I need to undo is the exhaust manifold from the head.

heh easier said than done

 

[Fast Guy]

Anyone know it there's a little hole though the rod that the actuator rod goes onto? I lost the circlip from my last car and I was able to put a cotter pin through this hole to keep the actuator rod on.

 

[geetee]

No - there's no little hole for a cotter pin unfortunately.

What a b@st@rd.... I cannot get the exhaust manifold off!! How the fook do you get 'that' nut underneath the mani off?? I can just about get half a shallow socket on it with a wobbly bar but it ain't shifting.

The other git is the turbo oil feed to block bolt... I can't get this off either.

So near yet so far.....

I'm thinking with a pair of very long-nose pliers I might be able to get a circlip on the rod without pulling the manifold - but it's gonna be a fiddly fecker of a job. I'll get about 20 clips - I'm bound to drop a few!!

Anyone know what size clip it is?

Should there be a washer under the clip?

Anyone know where the designers of this car live, I'm going to kill them :twisted:


Cheers
GeeTee 8)

 

[charlie]

My turbo's off at the mo.... i'll look at the clip tonight. wasn't too bad to get off. Get a ring spanner on the nuts under the manifold, you can tap it round with a hammer if you put a bar through the gaps in the manifold on top. Mine took the studs out too but thats no big deal really.

 

[geetee]

Can't even get my ring spanner on the nut under the manifold.... I think I need a shorter spanner.

If you could see if there's a washer as well as a clip that'd be helpful - cheers! Also the internal diameter of the clip would be useful... looks about 4 mm?

Cheers
GeeTee 8)

 

[charlie]

Ok, ill have a look. The 2 nuts i had most trouble with were on the underneath of the manifold, cylinders 2 and 3. had to undo the bolts on the a/c compressor to make extra room for my hands though.

 

[charlie]

Sorry about the quality, i took the photos with my phone, the overall diameter of the shaft seems to be 5mm and inside is 3mm, there is no washer... strangely :?

I took the other pics in the hope that u could see things a bit clearer and maybe do the job still on the car