how important is shell optimax fuel??

M

m34ts_pulsar

Guest
hi ive recently bought an r and have been recommended to put shell optimax fuel in it, im just wondering what alternative too put in as there isnt a shell garage for miles where i live!!! is super plus unleaded ok????

thick i know!! :thumbsup:
 

Fast Guy

Moderators
Staff member
Pretty unimportant now as it's been replaced by Vpower:lol:

Stick to full fat 97 or 99ron if you can get it. ie avoid the diet stuff (95)
 

houghy_1

Member
Theres Shell in Marple,they have V-Power in8)

Think thats the nearest Shell to you bud;-)

Otherwise stick to super.

Matt
 
Z

zee

Guest
it makes a big difference in my car what fuel i use. with the v-power with 99ron works the best, car wants to take off every time i put my foot down.
 

youngsyp

New Member
Basically, just go for the highest RON (octane) stuff you can as, the ecu in the JDM R is designed to run on Japanese fuel which, is 100 RON plus (more like 102 RON). This way, you can leave your base timing at 20 degrees BTDC and not have to worry about det. You'll also get better mileage from the higher octane fuels which, is always a bonus where the R is concerned ! :lol:

Personally, I've tried all the high octane fuels for different lengths of time and my car prefers V-Power to them all. It's noticably more responsive, pulls harder and, I've just managed to get 300 miles to a tank with mixed A road and B road driving which, is about 28.4 mpg !
 

kenan

South West Regional Rep
youngsyp said:
I've just managed to get 300 miles to a tank with mixed A road and B road driving which, is about 28.4 mpg !
What spec is your car? just trying to gauge MPG, thanks
 

youngsyp

New Member
kenan said:
What spec is your car? just trying to gauge MPG, thanks
Well, it's running a 3" elbow and downpipe into a 2.5" system for the exhaust. A Blitz induction kit with 100mm cold air feed, all earths cleaned and re-connected. Earth bonding kit fitted, MAF re-earthed, fuel pump re-earthed, TPS re-earthed. Oil catch tank fitted, all factory breather system binned and by passed. Inlet track cleaned with petrol. New fuel filter, plugs, leads, timing set at base 20 degrees before TDC and an Apexi AVC-R running 1.00 kg/mm. The wheels are Compomotive MO in a 16"x7" with Toyo T1-R 215/40-16 rubber.

I've mentioned the earths, breather system and inlet cleaning etc as, these are what I've found important in making the car run as well as it does now. Removing the factory breather system made the car run noticably more smoothly and with better mpg, as did the earthing and re-earthing. You can do all that at very little cost (about £20 for the bonding kit) and the results are well worth the effort ! I think the turbo elbow makes a big difference to general running, not to mention performance as, the throttle response is razor sharp and the turbo spins up very fast now !

Next thing to do is bin the charcoal cannister and re-run all it's plumbing !

Oh, and always run it on the best fuel and oil you can !
 

youngsyp

New Member
I do try. Obviously, I could just throw money at it but, car's aren't my life (despite what my other half might tell you :lol: ), I just enjoy fiddling with them and getting them to perform to a decent level. I do rely on her every day though so, she needs to be reliable. I firmly believe that these little cheap/free mods are the way to go for longevity and all round performance !
 

Chris1

Member
Just thought I would add my feelings.

Definatley stick in the old vPower if you can get it.
In my old R I always used trusty optimax. Certainly noticed a difference in mid range oomph. It was much smoother and the closer you can get to the Japs magical 100/102 RON stuff the better really.
I was getting a regular 30mpg out of mine. And that wasn't down to driving like a granny either.
But stay away from the supermarket rubbish. I don't care what anyone says, it's crap.

Cheers.
 

chrism

New Member
I
just worked out my last tanks MPG.It was 32.I drive sensibly most of the time but was able to launch sometimes and give it a bit of boot now and then.Obviously if you kick its fanny all day long its gonna drink.

I put in 32 litres and drove 234 miles.32 litres is 7.1 gallons.234 divided by 7.1 is actually 32.96 MPG.Even a conservative estimate is 30 mpg.

Probably helps cos as part of our company environment awareness diplomacy it is obligitory to do an eco driving course.This has brought down my usage plenty.
 

oap-r

I love Rob xxx
chrism said:
I
just worked out my last tanks MPG.It was 32.I drive sensibly most of the time but was able to launch sometimes and give it a bit of boot now and then.Obviously if you kick its fanny all day long its gonna drink.

I put in 32 litres and drove 234 miles.32 litres is 7.1 gallons.234 divided by 7.1 is actually 32.96 MPG.Even a conservative estimate is 30 mpg.

Probably helps cos as part of our company environment awareness diplomacy it is obligitory to do an eco driving course.This has brought down my usage plenty.
I assume you brimmed the tank before doing the 234 miles and then topped it up with the 32 litres.

If you're going to drive "sensibly" most of the time,why not get a small capacity diesel engined car :doh:
 

oap-r

I love Rob xxx
m34ts_pulsar said:
hi ive recently bought an r and have been recommended to put shell optimax fuel in it, im just wondering what alternative too put in as there isnt a shell garage for miles where i live!!! is super plus unleaded ok????

thick i know!! :thumbsup:
It all depends how the car's ignition advance has been set :doh:

If it's still set for the japanese rocket fuel then it needs our high octane fuel.

If it's set for our 95 ron fuel then you are only wasting money by putting in higher rated fuel than you need.

Why not try a search first as this has been covered many,many,many times :mong:
 

oap-r

I love Rob xxx
stumo said:
how many times?

do i have to run V power for 1Bar?
Every month or so for as long as you come on here :doh:

I've been seeing this thread,or very similar,for 11 fookin years :doh: :doh: :doh: :doh:
 
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