fault code 12

[Anonymous]

I am trying everything to sort a misfire and hesitation my car has up to around 1500rpm. It came up with the fault code No.12, which i am led to believe is the MAF. I got the part number off the forum but there was no price for it, does anyone know how much if they've replaced it before?Ta

 

[paulrandy]

Dude i doubt very much you'll be buyiing a new one, they're in the region of £450+vat!! There should be plenty of guys on here with second hand ones though who have upgraded to z32 or q45.

 

[GINGA]

I'd check the wiring and plug connection first before actually replacing the maf itself

 

[Anonymous]

I sprayed the plug with magic WD40 and closed the contacts a bit hoping that would help, but it made no difference. Its idling REALLY bad! Wow, i had no idea they were that pricey :shock: . I did the check again and it came up all clear so i guess its an intermittent fault.Ta

 

[KevShek]

Check for air leaks aswell, possibly the O2 sensor.

 

[Anonymous]

I thought of that so i fitted the flow meter/ filter straight onto the intake manifold to check to see if there was a leak round the intercooler etc, but no different. Where is the O2 sensor?

 

[MarkTurbo]

Where is the O2 sensor?

Its screwed into the elbow that comes off the turbo to the exhaust

 

[Anonymous]

cheak the oil and water temp switches,many ppl miss these.if the car is warma,and these are tellin the ecu its cold,its gonna be tellin the ecu to richen up,same when its cold,and switches are reading hot!

 

[Anonymous]

Hey, that makes sense! My tempeature gauge has never worked properly since i got the car. Always sits on the cold mark under normal driving and only rises when you leave it idling. The oil temperature gauge works fine though. Do you think a new sender for the temp gauge will help? I heard on this forum that there is actually 2 temp sensors, one for the gauge and one for the ecu.

 

[Anonymous]

yeah,its worth a shot.i can find out about the senders,as i work 4 nissan.

 

[Tony]

Hi m8,

Take the sensor out of the housing by removing the 2 screws (be careful you dont damage the sensor)

spray it with electrical cleaner or brake cleaner, pop it back in start the car and let it run for about 1min then take it for a drive to see if the hesitation has gone!!!!! this problem has came up a few times with me and a my mates car, its just a dirty sensor!!!!

do the diagnostic check again and it should have gone!!!!!1

Still didnt cure my high idle tho



Tony....

 

[Anonymous]

Changed the MAF.......

Bought a second hand MAF and put it on but made absolutely no difference whatsoever!! F-ing thing. It now comes up with fault 12 ALL the time and is still missing when idling, as well as going into limp home mode which limits the boost. I used these scotch lock things to cut into the 3 wires going to the MAF and ran seperate wires and spade terminals to the connections on the MAF to do away with the block connector, but no difference. Maybe the ecu needs reset :?: :?: . how do you do it exactly? Ive disconnected the battery for a couple of minutes but that didnt work :? .

Back to the temperature gauge problem, i earthed the single wire going to the gauge sender and the gauge shot up to max, as it should, so i guess that confirms the sender is knackered. After the car being idling for aroung 10 mins i got a resistance of 160 ohms through it.Is this normal? I noticed now that it seems to idle ok when cold but starts to miss bad as it warms up so i think gti r 163 is right about changing the senders as maybe its just running rich cos the car thinks its cold. How the hell do you get at them to change them, is it from underneath :?: :!:

They are great cars alright, just when they start going wrong........... :evil:

 

[geetee]

The gauge sender is separate to the ECU sender.

Cheers
GeeTee 8)

 

[Anonymous]

I think i'll change them anyways, whats the best way of getting at the senders to change them? Ive changed just about everything else, another few quid wont make a difference! Ta