Who got RPS Max street fitted?

K

kizzyturbo4x4

Guest
Still having some probs with mine.
could someone who has the one with part no. MS-17538-ST
tell if theirs working fine and take some pics of the slavesylinder and how far it wanders with clutch disengaged/engaged. :(
sometimes, and especially when hot mine wont disengage.
very fun to drive home in 2nd :(

Do you use any kind of uprated release bearing?
 
K

kizzyturbo4x4

Guest
it looks like this when engaged (pedal NOT preesed down)
I belive it to be far out, and when the pedal is depressed the slavecyl. rod almost comes out of the slavecyl. :roll:

 
K

kizzyturbo4x4

Guest
Could someone with clutch experience post a view on this. it cant be right now can it?
 
A

Anonymous

Guest
:D Hi mate,how low/high is the clutch bite on the pedal :?:
 
J

jiw

Guest
Did you fit the distance piece in between the block and the gearbox casing? is it not disengaging because the hydraulics wont give enough travel or is it because the friction plate is bonding to the fly and pressure plate :?

To me it sounds like a cylinder fault and your either loosing fluid or drawing in air, if not then you could have a piece machined to extend the rod that comes from the slave cylinder to allow more travel, saves removing the engine again.
 
A

Anonymous

Guest
Shaun said:
:D Hi mate,how low/high is the clutch bite on the pedal :?:
Click to expand...
It bites below the floor if you catch me.
thing is i made it work by adjusting the hydralic flow amount on the master cylinder.


jiw said:
Did you fit the distance piece in between the block and the gearbox casing? is it not disengaging because the hydraulics wont give enough travel or is it because the friction plate is bonding to the fly and pressure plate :?

To me it sounds like a cylinder fault and your either loosing fluid or drawing in air, if not then you could have a piece machined to extend the rod that comes from the slave cylinder to allow more travel, saves removing the engine again.
Click to expand...

-Distance plate is in place.
-The hydralics ar OK, as the slave cylinder piston now travels almost out off the cylinder and still wont disengage the clutch.

So prob is the clutch still takes even with the slave cylinder piston this extremely far out.


-Starting removal of box tonight :cry: :cry:
just hope is obvious onces the box comes of, if not ill have to ditch the rps... Does really no one have this mounted :?: :?:
part no is on top of post.

Kristian.
 
A

Anonymous

Guest
Anonymous said:
Shaun said:
:D Hi mate,how low/high is the clutch bite on the pedal :?:
Click to expand...
It bites below the floor if you catch me.
thing is i made it work(for awile) by adjusting the hydralic flow amount on the master cylinder.


jiw said:
Did you fit the distance piece in between the block and the gearbox casing? is it not disengaging because the hydraulics wont give enough travel or is it because the friction plate is bonding to the fly and pressure plate :?

To me it sounds like a cylinder fault and your either loosing fluid or drawing in air, if not then you could have a piece machined to extend the rod that comes from the slave cylinder to allow more travel, saves removing the engine again.
Click to expand...

-Distance plate is in place.
-The hydralics ar OK, as the slave cylinder piston now travels almost out off the cylinder and still wont disengage the clutch.

So prob is the clutch still takes even with the slave cylinder piston this extremely far out.


-Starting removal of box tonight :cry: :cry:
just hope is obvious onces the box comes of, if not ill have to ditch the rps... Does really no one have this mounted :?: :?:
part no is on top of post.

Kristian.
Click to expand...
 
K

kizzyturbo4x4

Guest
what tha h*'ls up with not staying logged in. :oops: :oops:
that was me messing up above.
:oops:
 
S

Shaun

New Member
:D Hi mate,sounds like it might be the throw arms come off its pivot :wink:As they are only held on with a silly clip :wink:
 
A

Anonymous

Guest
the pivot arm was broken...
but im not convinced that was the fault. ore like a side affect maybe.
will have a closer look at the whole clutch assembly and see what i can work out.

ill post some pics later to.
 
J

jiw

Guest
if you had a broken pivot arm mate then that explains it all, are these clutches really that harsh to be snapping pivot arms :?
 
K

kizzyturbo4x4

Guest
no the clutch release arm broke where the pivot sits at it.



you se the broken old one on the left and the new one i welden a bit of 5mm steelplate to support it. hope this will hold better :S

think i should put some half the blame on myself. think i had fitted the release bearing 180dg wrong onto the frok. this made extra pressure on the fork and so might be part of the fault it cracked.

Now the clutch is all ok. wanders like orginal shall and so on.
yes i am happy :lol:
 
L

little ghost

Member
That's three people with these symptoms now. Not broken pivot arm, but not being able to get gears and car sometimes staying in gear when lever in neutral. I've been recommending moving the biting point up on the pedal so it's not biting on the floor- worked a dream for me... Maybe these problems are linked and i caught mine in time.

We'll have to keep our eyes on this fellow R drivers, because the RPS is gaining a following fast... we may need to warn people?
 
A

Anonymous

Guest
Mine broke because i had the RELEASE BEARING MOUNTED 180dg WRONG on the fork!! garanteed. i have another box and i have "runned" some tests on that one. with the bearing 180dg around the pressure on the fork is 10times more. the bearing locks itself agains the shaft.

The increased pressure off the pressureplated being upgraded is nothing compared to this. now with all right the pedal feels like an original car!
so i dont think its time to blame the rps for the broken forks and pivots.
 
K

kizzyturbo4x4

Guest
that was me by the way :roll: :roll: :oops:

and to add. i first experienced that the clutch took below the floor and adjusted the master cylinder and then everything seemed fine.just the pedal was heavy to push down, but i figured that was from the upgraded pressure plate. well for a month, then it started not disengaging like that again. i then took the box off an found that my explanation is that first the bearing caused the problem and then by adjusting and "fixing" the problem the strain still was there and then that killed the fork.
after i turned the bearing around again the clutch got MUCH lighter o push and i had to adjust the cylinder/hydralics back to normal.

i had to admit i made a mistake :lol:, but still its very easy to get that bearing wrong. after all the difference is just to small 1x3mm big clips facing oposite direction. :oops:

summary: Everyday the R teaches me someting new, the hard way.
 
I

Innovate Performance

Guest
little ghost said:
That's three people with these symptoms now. Not broken pivot arm, but not being able to get gears and car sometimes staying in gear when lever in neutral. I've been recommending moving the biting point up on the pedal so it's not biting on the floor- worked a dream for me... Maybe these problems are linked and i caught mine in time.

We'll have to keep our eyes on this fellow R drivers, because the RPS is gaining a following fast... we may need to warn people?
Click to expand...
I have had this fault on a couple of car and i have had a few were the fork has been welded up and that was befor the RPS clutches where around.
 
Dooie Pop Pop

Dooie Pop Pop

New Member
James fitted my RPS clutch and its as sweet as a nut so far 8) initial bites not harsh at all, the pedal feels lighter than with my 18 month old exedy clutch and tbh the bite point is just where my foot wants it to be... if you get my drift 8)

regards, stu
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top