You'll need to take more off than just the sump pan, to see the bottom end.nex said:or do you really need to take it all apart?
If it sounds like mine did in the clip then start savingyoungsyp said:You'll need to take more off than just the sump pan, to see the bottom end.
The oil strainer will have to come off, as will the baffle plate, at the very least. I'm pretty sure you also have to take off the large sump cover to see all the big ends.
Then, once you've got it all off, how will you measure clearances etc with the bottom end still in one piece ?!
I'd just change the oil bud although, I do fancy taking my sump pan off to knock out a couple of dents, clean it out and the strainer......
Paul
Should be easy enough to know if your big end is on the way out, I know mine was and thats with no cat and a 5zigen back box! Started off with very light knocking on cold startup which turned into loud knocking after a few weeks. From there it started to knock loudly at around 2.5k rpm when driving and finally oil pressure started to take a nose dive.nex said:Cheers for the lads, bit new to the bottom end of things and just wanted to see if there was anything that would be evident without taking everything apart? Just started making some rattles the other day, but hard to pin point over the zorst \ lol
Just like in the link i gave him :sad:pulsarboby said:(oil pressure taking a nose dive)
that is in many occasions not the case though!
ive seen many cars that have either spun a shell or have bigend knocks but still retaining good oil pressure.
your best weapon of detection is your ears!
bigends will also give a rattly knock on light revving as you come off throttle, not so noticable on hard acceleration when under load unless they are really bad.
if main bearings are going you will get more of a heavy rumbling sound as opposed to knock.