Sailor96
Member
Figured I'd share mine as well. Took me maybe too long to get everything back together. With some headaches along the way. The results https://photos.app.goo.gl/vbKxKSqmtHbiDBS67
What have you done with your pulsar today?
- Thread starter Johnny nofear
- Start date
stugtir300
Active Member
Your boyfriend said your crack is bigger than 1 inch.
Cathode
Active Member
It had crossed my mind that you’d comment on that. But I know you’re gagging, I say gagging to know what I’ve done on my Pulsar today and I’ve fitted the old catch can AND restrictor pipe which was really difficult to hunt down but I got lucky.
stugtir300
Active Member
Keep up the good work.
Cathode
Active Member
Dear god really?? You haven’t had it longRuptured a coolant hose behind the intake manifold, oil pressure dropped tooTime to drop the engine
Last edited:
Sailor96
Member
Guess I was too confident in it's condition. On a longer drive I'd just gotten home when it happened luckily. So no tow required, just some leg work to move it up the driveway. I'll try a compression test once I'm off work to see the extent of the damage. Seems easiest to just drop the engine and get it sorted with some fresh coolant lines at the very least
If i'm lucky, the coolant flow only made the oil so hot, and therefore less viscous, to cause the lower oil pressure
If i'm lucky, the coolant flow only made the oil so hot, and therefore less viscous, to cause the lower oil pressure
Last edited:
This would be best!
Just a simple rebuild would be a great idea. Nothing too fancy, just get it all refreshed and at least you know its new and ready to go for whatever you've got planned for it.
I would, however add some forged pistons.
These are cheap to buy from the US, (when I bought them) and its futureproofing the engine for whatever you've got planned for it.
Sailor96
Member
Engine is out! Wish I could say it didn't take me all weekend. Had some precarious bolts, especially on ps firewall motor mount. Sucker just spun. Found some good info on this forum though for the driveshaft removal. After removing the wheel nut and giving it a tap, undid the knuckle to strut bolts and turned the wheel full tilt. Almost forgot that the ds axle has a tiny little snap ring holding it all together. After that it went semi smoothly. Not the first time rebuilding an engine but first time removing it fully from the vehicle and a totally different platform than what I've worked on (once had a pos s13 that shit out chunks of piston when I pulled them out)
If I'm going for a full rebuild I think: new pistons/rings new crank/rod bearings, but what else? New oil pump, timing chain and guides, water pump, rebuild the trans with new syncros while i'm in there? I feel like the list could just go on forever lol
I did do some further testing and the compression was good across all 4, or at least to me I think (170,170,165,165) not fantastic numbers but defiantly not blown head gasket or melted piston rings. SOoo I was thinking of leaving the head in tack. Though there is a stud that is broken off in the head. hmm.... will think on this as I really wanted this engine to just work for as long as it took for me to build the spare engine in the shed, which I planned to do up all the way but obviously things have not gone according to :doh
If I'm going for a full rebuild I think: new pistons/rings new crank/rod bearings, but what else? New oil pump, timing chain and guides, water pump, rebuild the trans with new syncros while i'm in there? I feel like the list could just go on forever lol
Good news overall it seems!
Regards the rebuild, it depends on how much your budget will allow?
For me, my build was pretty standard:
Forged pistons
Bearings
Valves
Springs etc
Seals
Crank bearings (and new crank)
Oil Pump
Water Pump
Timing chain
As for the gearbox - 100% rebuilt that.
These can be problematic.
If you want to go mad, you could install a QUAIFE gear kit (helicut) and a PAR/PPG 3rd gear selector fork
Also have your clutch line replaced with a bradied line and also have your clutch relase fork renforced with some 4 or 6mm steel to stop it bending if and when you upgrade the clutch.
Sailor96
Member
I am stoked it's not already blown, very good news!
The budget I'm not too worried about, need space and time and probably a whole lot more expertise.
Quafie gear sets are all over the forum, seems like it has a really good rep. Added to my list for rebuilding the second engine/trans. I see Par also makes dog gear sets? Couldn't find the selector forks listed from them or PPG
For now, at least, the laundry list I settled for is repairing and replacing ancillary/rad/vacuum ect hoses, all bushings up front, ball joints, wheel bearings, end links, leaking master clutch cylinder which i found after pulling (+paint/undercoat), and a touch of wiring.
Progress is moving, the hubs are off waiting on bearing to take to a shop to press in. The lower ball joints are a pain in mine. Already removed all the hoses around back, with the IAC and AAC for further cleaning. Hose kit was missing pieces, burnt a hole in my wallet for Roose motorsport ones. New sensors for coolant and oil. Still have to push or cut all the old bushing rings to make room for the new ones to go in