1&onlygti-r
Member
can you check the timing chain with the engine sitll in the car if so can you tell me in the order to do it thanks
timing chain
- Thread starter 1&onlygti-r
- Start date
What do you mean "check", do you mean check it for stretch or check it's not slipped ??
Are you getting the timing chain rattle on cold start up ??
Are you getting the timing chain rattle on cold start up ??
O
Odin
Guest
The timing chains very rarely give any problems on there own, But the tensioner may need replacing as I've seen these go on a few cars.
Rob
Rob
Still not sure what you want to check.
If it is because of this "rattle" you hear on cold start, there is nothing to worry about as long as the noise stops after a second or so, the workshop manual suggests the rattle shouldn't continue longer than 6 seconds. The chain is tensioned by a hydraulic tensioner that's governed by the engine oil pressure and the noise is the timing chain rattling on the chain guide before the oil pressure raises enough on initial start up to pressurise the tensioner. If all is well with your engine you will find the noise can be controlled to a degree by using a good quality fully synthetic oil of the correct grade and more often than not the noise will not be evident directly after an oil change but will start to appear as the oil degrades.
But to get the chain off completely you can leave the head on but you have to remove the oil pump cover and although you can do this with the engine in place it would be so much easier to remove the engine.
1&onlygti-r, if your seriously interested in any DIY maintenence/servicing may I be so bold as to suggest you buy a copy of the workshop manuals on CD.
Steve
If it is because of this "rattle" you hear on cold start, there is nothing to worry about as long as the noise stops after a second or so, the workshop manual suggests the rattle shouldn't continue longer than 6 seconds. The chain is tensioned by a hydraulic tensioner that's governed by the engine oil pressure and the noise is the timing chain rattling on the chain guide before the oil pressure raises enough on initial start up to pressurise the tensioner. If all is well with your engine you will find the noise can be controlled to a degree by using a good quality fully synthetic oil of the correct grade and more often than not the noise will not be evident directly after an oil change but will start to appear as the oil degrades.
But to get the chain off completely you can leave the head on but you have to remove the oil pump cover and although you can do this with the engine in place it would be so much easier to remove the engine.
1&onlygti-r, if your seriously interested in any DIY maintenence/servicing may I be so bold as to suggest you buy a copy of the workshop manuals on CD.
Steve
O
Odin
Guest
steve pudney said:
And guess where you can buy one of them fella:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: .
Steve you never miss a trick ;-) the ultimate sales man :lol:
Rob
Oh yeah, so I do :lol: ;-)
B
beast14
Guest
Just a side point guys - anyone know what the correct setting is for the timing chain ie. how to line it up...
Now theres a whole new subject all on it's own. (and another reason to buy a workshop manual on CD ;-) )beast14 said:
1&onlygti-r
Member
i built then engine not long ago and got masses of lack of power just wanted to double cheak that the timing is correct
So you did line up the various gold and silver links in the chain with the marks on the cam sprokets and crank sprocket then ??
1&onlygti-r
Member
yes i did that its just that i keep getting told my timming could be out thats why its so bad after 4500rpm
is the pinch bolt on your distributer in the around cenrtal position and what does it idle like, also are you sure the static timing is at 20 degrees.
Also have you tried an ECU fault code check to see that the knock sensor isn't playing silly wotsits after 4500 rpm.
Could also be worth checking for a boost/vacuum leak that only shows up under a certain amount of boost.
Also have you tried an ECU fault code check to see that the knock sensor isn't playing silly wotsits after 4500 rpm.
Could also be worth checking for a boost/vacuum leak that only shows up under a certain amount of boost.
1&onlygti-r
Member
ian at hiteq set the dizzy up and mapped the car with the apexi power fc carnt do a fault code check with this ecu and the car wont run with the standard one as i have a z32 maf and 1000cc injectors. the idle seems to be not to bad but some times is a bit strange but i have hks cams in so will probably be a bit lumpy
A
AJ4
Guest
can't remember the exact figure, but if your out by a whole tooth on the cog then you'll fecking know about it 