std rods:shotpeening and ARP bolt question
- Thread starter Jobi Joba
- Start date
A
antilag
Guest
there shot peened from the factory standard i was told
skiddusmarkus
Active Member
Jobi,what's happened with your PAR ones?
A
antilag
Guest
he left them near the fire place and they melted
My PAR what????Oh,those heavy metal shits?I gonna probably dump them!!!Or throw them back to aussie with a bomb in the package!! :evil:
I gotta remove the head and drop the sump to remove the rods of my engine!!!!I have a strange noise which really seems to come from the piston shaft...probably too much clearance with the rod bushing... :?
That's why I won't enter TOTB this year...I'm really fed up.If the noise really comes from there,I'll change the rod bushing and will fit a new one,precisely machined this time!!!
And if the noise is due to the play between crankshaft and rods,then I drop those aussi shits and put back my std rods...
gutted...
I gotta remove the head and drop the sump to remove the rods of my engine!!!!I have a strange noise which really seems to come from the piston shaft...probably too much clearance with the rod bushing... :?
That's why I won't enter TOTB this year...I'm really fed up.If the noise really comes from there,I'll change the rod bushing and will fit a new one,precisely machined this time!!!
And if the noise is due to the play between crankshaft and rods,then I drop those aussi shits and put back my std rods...
gutted...
E
Edd
Guest
that's just unPARf*cking believeable :shock:
group buy on plane tickets to OZ to kick some ass :?: :twisted:
group buy on plane tickets to OZ to kick some ass :?: :twisted:
aaaaaaaaaaaarrrrrrrrrrgggggggggggghhhhhhhhh :evil: :evil:
Just about to put my engine back together with the PAR rods!! Any advice before I have to start all over again!!
If I get all the tolerances double checked do you think it will be okay?
Is it the lack of oil channels in the bearing? Could the PAR rods be improved now before its too late.
Just about to put my engine back together with the PAR rods!! Any advice before I have to start all over again!!
If I get all the tolerances double checked do you think it will be okay?
Is it the lack of oil channels in the bearing? Could the PAR rods be improved now before its too late.
skiddusmarkus
Active Member
Jobi you don't think it's your sandpapering the gudgeon pins then that caused it then?
skiddusmarkus
Active Member
Checked on progress of my engine rebuild today and my PAR rods went on fine with Tomei 87mm pistons,so hopefully all is ok.
Spoke to my engine builder last night. Because my PARthetic rods didn't fit the pins anyway we had to get them machined so his feeling was they should be okay.
We discussed the lack of oil channels on the bearing but figured if it was the channels causing the problem for Jobi the rod would cease rather than knock.
Jobi, did you sandpaper anything in the end? Have got anymore ideas what's gone wrong yet?
Jim
We discussed the lack of oil channels on the bearing but figured if it was the channels causing the problem for Jobi the rod would cease rather than knock.
Jobi, did you sandpaper anything in the end? Have got anymore ideas what's gone wrong yet?
Jim
skiddusmarkus
Active Member
What pistons do you have?campbellju said:
Skiddus:lucky boy...even using a hammer (don't worry,I didn't try) it was impossible to fit Tomei piston pins through the PAR rods...
I had to sandpaper the bushing...no other way to get the extra 0.05mm I needed. (don't tell me u can do it by machining,it's my job and it is impossible to remove only 0.05mm without using specific tools.)
The head is now removed (how hard it is to remove the little 12mm bolt which hold the water pipe to the back of the block!!!U have to remove the starter engine to remove this bolt!! :? ).Tomorrow the rods and the pistons will be removed and I'll tell u what's going wrong.
For my std rods,I think shot peening them and fitting ARP rods bolts would be enough to handle 400bhp.Do u think I'm right?
BTW,how the hell do u remove std rods bolts??? :?:
I had to sandpaper the bushing...no other way to get the extra 0.05mm I needed. (don't tell me u can do it by machining,it's my job and it is impossible to remove only 0.05mm without using specific tools.)
The head is now removed (how hard it is to remove the little 12mm bolt which hold the water pipe to the back of the block!!!U have to remove the starter engine to remove this bolt!! :? ).Tomorrow the rods and the pistons will be removed and I'll tell u what's going wrong.
For my std rods,I think shot peening them and fitting ARP rods bolts would be enough to handle 400bhp.Do u think I'm right?
BTW,how the hell do u remove std rods bolts??? :?:
rods and pistons removed...
and the winner SEEMS to be...
:?:
piston pin in the rod bushing?
Errrrrrrrrrrrr...No.
rod bearing?
Errrrrrrrrrrr...No.
So,who's guilty?
side clearance between rod and crankshaft.The PAR rods are thinner (about 0.05/0.1mm) than std rods...and if you move the rod of my cylinder 2 from left to right,u can clearly hear a tac tac tac tac noise which is way louder than other cylinders...Check the thickness of the rod,and this one is the thinnest one...0.1mm thinner than std rods,which gives about 0.55mm side play.TOO MUCH (off specs:std is 0.2mm to 0.35 and limit is 0.5mm).
Double check that PAR rods owners...
and the winner SEEMS to be...
:?:
piston pin in the rod bushing?
Errrrrrrrrrrrr...No.
rod bearing?
Errrrrrrrrrrr...No.
So,who's guilty?
side clearance between rod and crankshaft.The PAR rods are thinner (about 0.05/0.1mm) than std rods...and if you move the rod of my cylinder 2 from left to right,u can clearly hear a tac tac tac tac noise which is way louder than other cylinders...Check the thickness of the rod,and this one is the thinnest one...0.1mm thinner than std rods,which gives about 0.55mm side play.TOO MUCH (off specs:std is 0.2mm to 0.35 and limit is 0.5mm).
Double check that PAR rods owners...
Jobi,
its saddening to hear that you are having to rebuild your engine again
huge thanks for your efforts in finding out what has gone wrong. When my engine comes back from the machine shop I'll check the rods and post to see if you were just unlucky or whether a certain performance parts manufacturer is consistently wrong :evil:
Jim.
its saddening to hear that you are having to rebuild your engine again
huge thanks for your efforts in finding out what has gone wrong. When my engine comes back from the machine shop I'll check the rods and post to see if you were just unlucky or whether a certain performance parts manufacturer is consistently wrong :evil:
Jim.