Did you look at the link? Maybe not the cheapest you can find it, but they have them in stock and you get it pretty quickly.
Plus, at least you know the seals are good in a new one, so it should last a bit longer.
I had the car mapped today and it ran about 400bhp at 1.4 bar then the clutch started slipping the guy say it might be the push rod as it had a bit welded on it. the clutch in it had a Ap racing pressure plate
Exedy organic drive plate
and it's only done 500 miles what do you think....
That's what I said in the first place... peace of mind. You can always rebuild the old one and use it as a spare if you want.
It has just occurred to me; you didn't have a bit of metal welded to the old one because the clutch fork is bent did you? There's nothing that can really fix that without taking the box off the engine to replace or repair it. - Hopefully the full story is that's what someone did to fix the old clutch/clutch fork, but they never took it off when they put a new (or re-enforced) one in!?
Spoke to the guy who owned the car before he said he put it on because he could not get any gear with the new clutch so he extended the the push rod to get gears?
Don't worry about me; I sound like the prophet of doom, but I'm not really.
I just remember someone on here (it may have been Riske) saying they'd put some wedging between their push rod and the fork because they'd bent the fork.
I bought a new slave cylinder and whacked it mine; it solved the problem (a leaking slave cylinder that wouldn't push the fork)... but all that leaked fluid destroyed the Exedy clutch, and that let go a couple of months later.
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