Standard Boost Gauge Reading

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bean

Guest
What should the standard boost gauge read at idle, i.e. vacuum?

Mine reads -200mm, just wondered if this was right.

Mods - No idea what section this should be in, so I chose general. :wink:
 
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bean

Guest
I think I may have a problem, mine reads about -100 but I thought it should be lower.... :roll:
 
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bean

Guest
Where will the leak likely be if my gauge is reading 0 at idle, I'm guessing this is the problem? :?

Mods - Guess this thread should be in Problem Solving now.
 

Fast Guy

Moderators
Staff member
Mine reads about -500. If it's reading 0, it might be plumbed in wrong and not necessarily be leaking.
Just check your pipe work, it shouldn't be too hard to find a leak (I hope :oops: ) Someone watching the gueage for changes might help while you fiddle with it. :wink:
Other option is bad blowby (worn rings) pressurising the crank case :shock:
 
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bean

Guest
Fast Guy said:
Mine reads about -500. If it's reading 0, it might be plumbed in wrong and not necessarily be leaking.
Just check your pipe work, it shouldn't be too hard to find a leak (I hope :oops: ) Someone watching the gueage for changes might help while you fiddle with it. :wink:
Other option is bad blowby (worn rings) pressurising the crank case :shock:
Well it's always read just below zero since I bought the car 6 months ago but only recently it's strarted running really badly.

My oil pressure and temperature is fine.. :?
 
A

Anonymous

Guest
which one is more accurate, an after market boost gauge or the standard one...
cause at full boost the mechanical after market reads 0.6 , the standard unit reads 7... Is this right ? Same one vacuum, mechanical reads -0.6, standard reads -0,7
 

Fast Guy

Moderators
Staff member
I'd go with the after market one for accuracy as long as it isn't a cheap and nasty one.
 
A

Anonymous

Guest
If it's running really bad then you probably have a vacuum leak. Even with cracked pistons you will read vacuum, it measures from the intake manifold, not the block.

Use WD40 or brake cleaner and squirt around all the hoses, gasket mating surfaces and inlet manifold. When you squirt where it's leaking you should hear the revs pick up and the engine sound healthy again. Then you can set about fixing the problem. Don't rule out something simple like a vacuum hose splitting because of age.


bean said:
Fast Guy said:
Mine reads about -500. If it's reading 0, it might be plumbed in wrong and not necessarily be leaking.
Just check your pipe work, it shouldn't be too hard to find a leak (I hope :oops: ) Someone watching the gueage for changes might help while you fiddle with it. :wink:
Other option is bad blowby (worn rings) pressurising the crank case :shock:
Well it's always read just below zero since I bought the car 6 months ago but only recently it's strarted running really badly.

My oil pressure and temperature is fine.. :?
 
B

bean

Guest
Ben said:
If it's running really bad then you probably have a vacuum leak. Even with cracked pistons you will read vacuum, it measures from the intake manifold, not the block.

Use WD40 or brake cleaner and squirt around all the hoses, gasket mating surfaces and inlet manifold. When you squirt where it's leaking you should hear the revs pick up and the engine sound healthy again. Then you can set about fixing the problem. Don't rule out something simple like a vacuum hose splitting because of age.


bean said:
Fast Guy said:
Mine reads about -500. If it's reading 0, it might be plumbed in wrong and not necessarily be leaking.
Just check your pipe work, it shouldn't be too hard to find a leak (I hope :oops: ) Someone watching the gueage for changes might help while you fiddle with it. :wink:
Other option is bad blowby (worn rings) pressurising the crank case :shock:
Well it's always read just below zero since I bought the car 6 months ago but only recently it's strarted running really badly.

My oil pressure and temperature is fine.. :?
Thanks, it's just finding a leak on this car is a like the provervbial 'needle in a haystack' ! :shock:
 
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