Sparkplug torque setting?

P

paz

Active Member
I'm going to service my car this weekend for the first time with a little help from my friends :lol:

I've got leads, plugs, dizzy cap, rotor head, new air filter and a new oil filter to do. One of my pals asked me if there is a specific torque setting for plugs in the R - I'm obviously absolutely clueless about this :)doh: :lol:) so thought I'd ask on here.

Also, with the above being serviced is there anything else I need to bare in mind - nasty bits, general hints & tips etc?

Cheers in advance :)

paz
 
antgtir

antgtir

New Member
Not sure on the torque setting mate. However one hint i will give you is do not tighten the new plugs whilst the engine is warm or hot as you may overtighten and when the engine cools you wont be able to get the feckers out again lol.

Everything that you have stated is simple and prob the easiest jobs you can do on the R. Dont forget to re attach all hoses to the IC after replacing it;-)

What kind of filter do you have? Uprated or standard?

Ant.

P.s. On new oil filter rub new oil on seal before attaching to engine;-)
 
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paz

Active Member
Its an HKS filter, I'm just going to be changing the element :) even I should be able to manage that I reckon! :lol: ;)

Good tip on the plugs cheers, so you've just tightened them up ''as tight as possible'' on a cold engine?

How many hoses go onto the intercooler?

Paz
 
campbellju

campbellju

Moderators
Staff member
The torque setting is pretty low and I normally do it by feel (really helpful).

A good rule of thumb is to nip it up and then another 90degs of turn. You should be able to feel the gasket compress down in that 90degs and then after that its just being overtightened.

Jim
 
antgtir

antgtir

New Member
campbellju said:
The torque setting is pretty low and I normally do it by feel (really helpful).

A good rule of thumb is to nip it up and then another 90degs of turn. You should be able to feel the gasket compress down in that 90degs and then after that its just being overtightened.

Jim
Click to expand...
Thats how i do it normally, by feel is normally a good theory and very rarely goes wrong (never to date in my case).

Paz: I wouldn't tighten as tight as you can as the head is only alluminium so just use the tighten upto tight then 90 degrees more.

Ant.

P.s. Ensure that the metal nibs (end that the leads attach to) on the end of the plugs are tight as they are sometimes supplied loose when new:roll:
 
J

jpward

Guest
paz said:
Its an HKS filter, I'm just going to be changing the element :) even I should be able to manage that I reckon! :lol: ;)

Good tip on the plugs cheers, so you've just tightened them up ''as tight as possible'' on a cold engine?

How many hoses go onto the intercooler?

Paz
Click to expand...
Oil filter (Hand tight with smear of oil on seal)
Plugs; depends on type of plug ring gasket square type (is hand tight and then 1/4 turn)
angled type (is hand tight and then 1/2 turn)

4 pipes in total going to intercooler
2 larger usually screw clips
2 smaller spring clips (Long nose pliers for back one)

1#10mm socket for TMIC cover and 1#12mm for the IC bracket (4# bolts in each)

Also check the wells for water ingress especially #1 pot as often i do find a little water in there airline will get it out before removing plugs, and i usually put a little copper grease on the Plug Caps taking car not to get any on the insulators as this helps keep the cap from corroding and i've found it does help!

And also on your coil lead doesnt do anyharm to atach small zip ties to the boots as sometimes after a few miles the lead can earth on the IC bracket causing a misfire at higher rpm :oops:

NB Remember to refit the back vac pipe or your boost wil be :shock:
 
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