right had enough

[ashills]

cant sort teh top end cut i keep getting so next is to bridge out teh knock sensor anyone know how

tested tonight and it cuts at 7.3k in 3rd
then about 100mph in 4th
120 in 5th

getting really P'd off with it now so knock sensors going in the bin and knock link and new sensor is on the way

 

[Davey]

mine does almost exactlly the same thing(sometimes), except the 3rd gear bit(dont often rev my car to 7300!) :shock:
Ive also had probs with my knock sensor, but never thought the 2 probs were connected. What makes you think this will sort it m8?
Let us know if it works
I think ginga,or skid have somehow bypassed they're sensor, you could try pm'ing them?

 

[paulrandy]

Measure the resistance across the knock sensor and ground and replace it with a similar resister.
I'll measure one later if i remember.

 

[AJ4]

Have you considered that your engine might actually be knocking ??

It seems like a lot of people are bridging out their knock sensors, when all they might be doing is what their supposed to do and stop your engine from blowing up....

 

[J-GTi-R]

The knock sensors are tempermental bloody things and if it was doing it's job properly it would be doing other things, not what Ashills is having trouble with.

 

[Fast Guy]

What rpm is it doing it in 4th and 5th? If it's the same rpm and regular as clock work in all 3 gears, I'd say your rev counter could be inaccurate and it's the engines rpm limiter kicking in.
If it's at different rpm then it could well be knocking as it reaches certain engine load conditions

What boost are you running? If it's 1bar or over can you turn it down to test it with lower boost? Failing that, uprated fuel pump if you don't have one or new plugs/plug gap?

 

[AJ4]

The knock sensors are tempermental bloody things and if it was doing it's job properly it would be doing other things, not what Ashills is having trouble with.

Sorry, I didn't mean Ashills in particular, I just meant you hear a lot of people going ' my engine loses power at high rpm, therefore I'm going to get rid of the knock sensor', whereas there cars are probably detting and the knock sensor is doing its job...

I can see the point if ( like Ashills ) it is a specific knock sensor problem, and he is replacing it with a seperate knock link, but I think its madness for most people to remove them or bridge them out at the first sign of trouble, without checking if it is actually detting first. A common 'cause' for det sensor problems is something rattling on the engine, like a loose heatshield, removing the det sensor to cure it is not fixing the problem, and removing the safety feature that a ( working ) det sensor offers.

I was only trying to help !

 

[J-GTi-R]

It's good advice, I always add the 'check the timing' bit to any replies about cars going into safe mode. People should only short the sensor if it's known to be faulty, otherwise as you say people are just ignoring a big 'there's a problem' message.

 

[ashills]

how can u tell if its a real knock problem would it show up on a rolling road session etc
im getting the knock link anyday now so should be able to tell a little more then

 

[AJ4]

You can look at the signal from the det sensor, see if it is showing any signs.

Also, a friend of mine made up an ingenious pair of det cans - earphones that listen to the engine.

What you need is eardefenders ( or big earphones ), a length of hose, a piece of copper pipe and a t-piece for the hose. I'll try and describe how it works....

Cut a hole in each earpiece, insert a length of tube into it each one and join them to the main length with the t-piece ( think of a doctors stethoscope ). The long piece goes into a six inch length of copper pipe, one end of it is flattened with a hole through it. Bolt it to the block somewhere, put the earphones on, and you can hear every little tick and whir in the engine.

Have used them on another Pulsar, and heard it detting straight away.

A bit Blue Peter, but its mega cheap and it works.....

 

[ashills]

update
turns out the ecu plug was loose so it was cutting throttle position sensor circuit when went over a bump etc
this must have been causing det with it coming on and off
since ive tigthened plug right up its fine but still getting a cut at top end

7300 in 3rd
110ish in 4th
120-125 in 5th

thinking maybe cut the wire to teh ecu from the clocks see if that makes any difference

 

[ashills]

DOH
code 34 back again for one drive but not on next so must be an intermitant fault as it would be there all teh time if teh engine was knocking wouldnt it????

so anyone know the resistor needed to earth the knock sensor wire???

 

[ashills]

has anyone mounted a new knock sensor yet
thinking just below turbo on front if block any ideas???

 

[ex-gtir]

heat may be a problem there

 

[Fast Guy]

so anyone know the resistor needed to earth the knock sensor wire???

The good book says you need to use an ohmmeter that can measure more than 10Mohms to check continuity of the sensor, so maybe a resistor of somewhere around that size?

 

[zia]

have you tried running without knock sensor connected to see if it defo is that?
if the sensor is reading knock what is causing it high temp/pressures in comb chamber? acclerating in high gear obviously does occasionaly cause this.
with engine on load do you still get cut etc?

zia

 

[Boooooost]

I have this problem too is it ok to run the car with the knock sensor unplugged :?: I thought if there was no signal at all it would automatically go into safe mode.