relocated top mount piccies

[seanleed]

Got some pics of my relocated top mount

Turbo outlet

Pipe run

And my home made water container for my water injection (when I get round to it)

 

[Toady]

your pretty nifty with a welder then! nice one mate!

 

[seanleed]

your pretty nifty with a welder then! nice one mate!

I wouldn't go that far, you didn't see how many attempts it took, and it's amazing what you can do with an angle grinder and a flap wheel

 

[seanleed]

If anybody wants to have a go themself, this is what I used and did:
I used (for the feed to the i/c):
3x 90 degree 2" bends
some 2" pipe, I cut lots of bits of pipe at about 15 degrees at one end, so they could be rotated and welded to form curves in the pipe to get round obstacles. It took lots of trial and error and going back and forward to work with bits of pipe in my bag (isn't night shift great!) to get it right.
Once it was welded, I buffed it down with a flap wheel and gave it a polish up. There's actually about 12 joins in it. The turbo outlet was made from a bit of 10mm stainless plate, cut out roughly with a plasma cutter then attacked with a grinder to get the shape.
The outlet from the i/c is about 6" of 2.5" pipe welded onto a stub flange connector. The other end of the connector is welded onto a 2" bsp elbow that's welded onto 3' of 2.5" pipe that goes straight to the plenum.
I had to cut a bit out of the body where the pipe goes up to the plenum, I used a 3" holesaw, welded the panels back together where they'd been cut and gave it a coat of paint.
On the i/c I cut the ends off (obviously) drilled a 2" hole in one side and a 2.5" in the other and stuck the pipe in with the good old titanium putty, it probably could have been brazed, but I can't do that at work. I cut out 2x 2.5" bits of plate and stuck them over the ends where the old inlet and outlet had been.
I used stainless steel for everything and even if I'd paid for it it wouldn't have been too expensive:
2" bends are about £5 each
2" pipe is about £4 a metre
2.5" pipe is about £5 a metre
I know the coupling I used for connecting the i/c outlet pipe is dear, but a silicon bend would be a lot better (i just used the coupling because it was lying around, and I'm a tight git).
I welded a stub into the pipe near the plenum to attach the dump valve to (1" bsp coupling I think) and did another pipe without the stub so I could run without a dump valve if I wanted, then I realised I'd have to take the bumper off to change it, so it'll sit in the garage doing nothing now
I also moved the air filter and for that I just cut a bit out of the pipe between the filter and the turbo and plastic welded it together again.
If anybody wants any more info, feel free to get in touch.

 

[Websnowbo]

Ok.........so have you and GINGA got a good deal in "Chemical Metal"!!!!

Seriously though that wont hold for long, when the engine moves back and forth the joint will crack, its not the "Chemical Metal" that breaks its the joint to the surface you have stuck it to that will give way.

Get it welded you tight fcuk!!

 

[seanleed]

It's not 'chemical metal', it's titanium putty and it's damned expensive. I could do with getting it done properly though, what do you suggest for joining stainless steel to aluminium alloy??

 

[Websnowbo]

You can't join stainless to alloy.

That titanium stuff may be expensive but it'l break, you'd be surprised how much you front mount will get tugged around, especially on 12yr old engine mounts.

You'll have to get an alloy tube welded on and use silicone unless you can turn a thread on some alloy, you'd have to start with a solid bit though, turn the thread and then bore out the middle or it'll vibrate too much.

 

[seanleed]

Could they not be brazed or silver soldered? One of my mates is a fabricator, so I guess I could ask him to try and get some bits of ally pipe for me Just means I have to take the i/c off to get it done, mind you, if it breaks it'll have to come off anyway
Thanks for your suggestions, I put it on here for some feedback.
According to the sheet that comes with the putty, it's made for building up shafts and repairing pipes etc, although they maybe didn't think about this use :!:

 

[Websnowbo]

awww........i feel bad now!! See how it goes, i may be wrong but i think it will break.

Can't silver solder or braze alloy, well, i've never tried it, bit i can't see it.

Also i presume you used PTFE on that joint?

 

[seanleed]

The joints a pipeline coupling, it's got an 'o' ring inside, so no need for ptfe
I've got the old outlets and some stainless knocking about, I'll see if our refrigeration engineer has an oxy kit and I might give it a go 'cos we've got silver solder rods lying about in our stores, unless they've been thrown out :shock: :shock: in the clean up.
Cheers mate :!: