Recommendations for road; Toe, camber, tracking and dampening.

[k20 gtr]

I have been reading but haven't come up with any conclusive results and was looking for some advice on settings to get it handling better.

I want to take it to Progrip in Larbert to get set up in the next couple of weeks, but not sure what to ask for?

The car feels quite light on the steering and I don't feel confident to push it hard into corners, the back feels "skippy" I've had it for a few years but never really used it or hard at that.

Spec:
Apex / Bc coilovers, 5kg springs front, 4kg springs rear. 30 point adjustable dampening.
Pillow ball top mounts and camber adjustable.

Whiteline front and rear anti roll bars.

Strut braces front and rear.

16 oz crono alloys with avon zz4 tyres, can't remember the tyre size.

Fully stripped out with poly windows and lightweight seats, still has steel panels.


It's just for the road and very occasional track day but I want a road set up.
What should I get for the toe settings, camber and what not for the fixed things?
Then a good basis for the dampeners, I have been experimenting but finding it difficult to make a comparison.

What's the point if pillowball and is there a method to adjusting the camber other than turning the Allen bolts, does the top mount need loosened?

Some help in this subject would be fantastic.
Thank you, Grant

 

[The Doc]

330mm front ride height from wheel centre to arch lip in vertical line, 345mm rear, 1.5deg front camber,1 deg rear camber , slight toe in on front and rear will make the car stable , toe out will make it rotate and turn in fast but will wear tyres out quickly. Dampers for road total minimum, for track 6 on front and 9 on rear, and do the castor modifications as well as they work very well and help to produce more camber when the wheels are turned without having to run massive camber in a straight line and there for the car will corner better and have good stability under breaking....for track use only there is a more radical setup but it will not suit road tyres.

 

[The Doc]

And on track check your tyre pressures and reduce them to factory spec of around 32psi front and 30psi rear....most common handling issues are over inflated tyres....I start with 25 fr and 26 rear and they increase to circa 30-32 after 4 laps.

 

[PobodY]

For the road I run almost standard settings except for 0º0'0" toe-in... but that's mostly because I don't have any adjustable components and think that the factory toe-in settings destroy tyres too quickly.

Suspension is as soft as it will go, but I've only got four settings to play with.

 

[nickr]

My settings are
Front caster 3.5 degrees
Front camber -2.8 degrees you need the extreme camber to combat positive camber gain on roll
Front toe out 0.05 degrees
Rear camber -1.5 degrees
Rear toe 0

Pressures 28psi front and rear and bleed off to 30 as they heat up

Double adjustable ground control advance design struts
Front compression 75pct to max stiffness on the road I dial this back to 25 pct
Rear compression 75pct to max stiffness on the road I dial this back to 25 pct
Front rebound 33pct to max
Rear rebound 66pct to max on the road this is set to 33pct

Front spring rate 600lbs
Rear spring rate 700lbs
Rear sway bar white line full stiff
Front bumpsteer kit mounted below steering knuckle
About to add a roll centre correction ball joint
Front upper ground control camber caster adjustable top plate
White line and proflex bushings all around except for rear arms
Cusco rear bar white line four point brace
Modena LSD and nismo two way rear

The Skippy rear u feel is likely to do with your soft rates you're bouncing off the bump stops. The bc racing coils have under an inch of bump travel. If u want to run low u gotta up those spring rates or add ride height via preload. I personally don't like preload and don't like the BC racing coils. They're not great. U can try going to a progressive koni bump stop and adding a little more spring rate to the rear. But either way its a bandaid fix