Rebuild Parts List

boucherie

boucherie

New Member
Over the next few months im looking to get my rebuild parts so that im all ready just in case the engine goes pop.

Im already making just shy of 360bhp at 1.2bar and since then ive had a 3" downpipe & screamer pipe fitted and a z32.

Below is a rough list of what i think il need for the rebuild but if theres something ive forgotten or dont need then please say so. Also any advise on the best place to get these parts from is appreciated, if not mentioned below.

from bnecustoms.com

Pistons - JE Forged Pistons 87.0mm (do i need top or side coated ones?)
Rods - Eagle H Beams
HG - Cometic 1.2mm
SR20DET valve guides, Intake and exhaust (GTIR specific ones)
SR20DET valve seats, intake and exhaust (GTIR specific ones)
ARP Head bolt kit (GTIR specific ones)

from greenline.com
Camshafts - JUN 264deg 10.8mm lift
Pulleys - JUN
Heavy duty double valve springs - JUN
Type 1 titanium valve retainers - JUN

from nissan?
Water pump
Oil Pump
Timing chain
valve stems?
bearings, which ones?

lightened flywheel and clutch
fuel pressure regulator

Please feel free to comment on whether i havent mentioned something important or if im double ordering something!! As for power output im not after a specific figure but something that could safely run early 400's should be achievable on this setup im thinking?
 
P

pulsarboby

Guest
take it your getting the head ported and gas flowed or youll be wasting money with the cams etc!
and personally i would not have 264 cams as the difference in power is minimal.
you would be better with a higher duration cams with a minimum of 272 or ideally 278 pipers will make a huge difference! this is from my own experience with 264 hks cams;-)
 
boucherie

boucherie

New Member
ross - if you speak with ian @ hiteq he can give you more information on the HKS cams.

pulsarboby - where abouts did you get your rebuild done and roughly how much am would i be looking at for the head work? i still want the car to be used as a daily driver hence why i chose the 264's or would i still have driveability on 272's? as you can see im trying to expand my knowledge as much as possible!
 
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pulsarboby

Guest
rebuild i did myself.
headwork was carried out by a chap nr heathrow(one of top men in country)if you want i can get his number for you after new year!
i stuck with new but standard valves which i fitted and lapped in myself but to port, polish and gasflow head came to £350 but what a job he did, fantastic bit of work;-) but if you want him to do valves etc then you need to speak with him regarding price.

right cams! 264s, in a nutshell dont waste your money, thumbs down on those!

ive got 278 pipers which are very driveable but you will find tickover lumpy and a bit erratic, but put your foot down and whoosh instant torquey power.

a good compromise between the two would be the piper 272s for normal road use, with the porting done correctly you'll be amazed at the transformation in sheer torque.

mines not been on dyno yet, but will be at end of january! it will be intersting to see the torque figure, and im only running a standard tubby.
 
O

oap-r

I love Rob xxx
Not sure i agree with your comments on the cams.

The loger the duration of the cams the higher up the rev range the power gets pushed.The same applies to lift,the higher the lift the higher up the rev range the power gets pushed.

Head porting is another mod that can push power and torque further up the rev range as it takes longer,and more revs,for the extra gas flowing to take affect.

I asked the guy at Kent Cams to rec'd a set for me with the intention of getting loads of torque and helping the turbo to respond as quickly as poss.I then bought a set of 256 deg duration cams with about 10mm lift,iirc.I think Kent list them as a fast road cam for the GTi-R.During the running in period it was really nice to drive with loads of torque from just above idle and later on when i did a few miles,the turbo produced power very quickly.

Granted,these cams might limit power production at the top of the rev range but,give me 500lb/ft and 475bhp against 475lb/ft and 500bhp in a road car any day.
 
K

Keira

New Member
cam specs are funny things, similar duration/lift cams can have very different results on an engine, the shapes of the lobes can vary when compared, which in turn effects the cams performance.

when my cams were spec'd i hadn't read the nice mans e-mail properly and thought 'wtf, they have less duration than standard' it was only when i asked him he explained the durations given were at 0.50" lift.

at full lift the durations made me smile :shock:
 
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Odin

Guest
Cam wise I went for lift over duration choosing tomei 260x12mm cams, I don't really know why because I know f*ck all about cams, My thinking was that the standard cams made 400 bhp anyway so going mad on duration wasn't needed to get the power I was after, I just thought having more lift would give my laggy turbo more air to play with quicker.

I also had to buy special double springs to cope with the lift though and Titanium retainers and seats.


Rob
 
Rishi

Rishi

Still waiting on some shims!
I'm using the 280deg w/12.5mm lift, Ported Head blah blah blah... with the GT3542R turbo.

What turbo, power and performance characteristics are you after as this will help you with your cam choice?


Rishi
 
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pulsarboby

Guest
ok you's all have raised a good point!
but i was strongly advised contrary to belief that this isnt necessarily the case (as kieron has once again pointed out)!
bruce... in theory your right that higher degree and lift cams should push power further up the rev range, but in reality its not so, as im prepared to prove to anyone when i get car setup and dyno'd

as kieron rightly says, cams are weird things that will work differently on different engines, depending ultimately on your particular setup!

ive had 264-12mm lift in past and i thought they were crap, offering very little benefit, but then again i had standard sprockets!

where as on the other hand the 278s with the same lift give immense torque and power low down and all the way through the range, so i frankly cannot fault them.
only downside is the uneven idle, which doesnt bother me at all.

and kieron believe me! there far from wasted on a t28, the difference is huge, huge i say, huge:lol: and when i do eventually uprate tubby then their already there fitted:thumbsup:
 
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K

Keira

New Member
pulsarboby said:
when i do eventually uprate tubby then their already there fitted:thumbsup:
Click to expand...
thats more what i was getting at Bob, they will be alot better with a bigger turbo as you'll continue making power well up the rpm's
 
boucherie

boucherie

New Member
RishiGTiR said:
I'm using the 280deg w/12.5mm lift, Ported Head blah blah blah... with the GT3542R turbo.

What turbo, power and performance characteristics are you after as this will help you with your cam choice?


Rishi
Click to expand...

Im using the GT3071 :roll: and performance wise im after a fast road car with the possibility of track use, but im not going for a full on race setup like you rishi!!

with regards to the rest of the parts i mentioned, are they a reliable choice or do i need to re-evaluate things a bit?

cheers for all your comments so far though guys, and i hope that this is of use to other members seeking the same questions!!
 
K

Keira

New Member
boucherie said:
from nissan?
Water pump
Oil Pump
Timing chain
valve stems?
bearings, which ones?
Click to expand...
chain tensioner, chain guides, full gasket set (which include valve stem seals)

with boucheries parts included, write off over £800 with the parts listed above when rebuilding an engine for the first time.

the price of the complete oil pump (not just gears) is :shock:
 
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boucherie

boucherie

New Member
quick update, the first stage of parts to be ordered is nearly complete and ive gone for:

GTIR Oil Pump
GTIR Water Pump
GTIR Cometic 1.2mm Head gasket
GTIR JE Forged Pistons 87.0mm with top coatings
SR20DET valve guides, Intake and exhaust (GTIR specific ones)
SR20DET valve seats, intake and exhaust (GTIR specific ones)
GTIR ARP Head bolt kit
Eagle Connecting Rods H Beam Nissan SR20DET with ARP conrod bolts

All of these parts are being supplied from
Eric's Performance Parts, Inc. (Formerly B&E Customs)
877-772-0338
http://ericsperformanceparts.com
http://stores.ebay.com/Erics-Performance-Parts

They have had dealings with other GTIR owners on here and are doing me a fairly decent deal on the above parts and have gladly said they will do the same for other gtir owners

this will keep me going for the time being until i decide to order the cams and all the other gaskets, chains etc :lol:
 
boucherie

boucherie

New Member
hi mate, its costing me $1635.59 including shipping which is a pretty good deal considering the pistons are coated as well.
feel free to drop them an email and tell them that i recommended you!!

cheers ian
 
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