problem after turbo change

gtir_pimp

New Member
i have just changed my turbo as the old one was smoking. i took the old one off on monday and left it until today to bollt the other one on. when i drive it i get to about 2.5-3.5k revs and it doesnt want to go past that. kind of like a big missfire but it doesnt kangaroo you about, it just looses all power like its running on 2 cylinders!.and the revs stay the same or slowly start to drop. it gets slightly worse when hot.
there is no smoke whatsoever from the exhaust,the turbo has no play,i have used my actuator,manifold and pipes on the turbo i have just fitted as i know theyre good,ecu fault code check is clear,changed mafs and still the same, checked for open ended vacuum pipes and there are none, and checked the turbo prior to fittind and also checked the impellor after it was hot to make sure it didnt seize up
what have or havent i done when i fitted the turbo?
please help as this is very annoying.
cheers
 

Fast Guy

Moderators
Staff member
Have you checked the shaft hasn't sheared? You'd need to be able to hold both ends at once and see if one turns while the other doesn't.

Other than that it sounds like you may have a big air leak. If it was an exhaust leak you should hear the increased noise.
 

gtir_pimp

New Member
i dont think i actually tried to turn one end and hold the other. i will take the elbow off tomorrow and try that. would the exhaust side spin but not the other side? beacause i have had the intake pipe off to check the turbo was spinning freely. and it was spinning with engine running on tick over. i bought the turbo off a guy who seemed very genuine and told me if there was any problems i could have my money back. it had been in his garage for quite a while. if it was an air leak surely it would have been a problem before i changed the turbo. would an exhaust leak cause this to happen?!
 

Fast Guy

Moderators
Staff member
If the intake side was spinning then I'd think it would be ok.

Was it a like for like swap or an upgrade that requires a remap?

You didn't blank any hoses with rags and leave them in there did you?

It might be worth doing a fault code check to make sure nothing else is wrong.

Is the actuator arm connected? Is the actuator OK?
 

gtir_pimp

New Member
intake side was definately spinning. its a like for like swap with standard turbo.didnt blank anything at all.fault code 55 all clear. yes actuator was connected and is my one from the old turbo which was working fine. what next? dont really want to take the thing off again.
 

gtir_pimp

New Member
that makes sense. could be but my walboro is only just over a year old. and just seems weird its after i changed the turbo but its sods law with these cars! is there any way to check if its the pump other than changing it for another?
 

gtir_pimp

New Member
im hoping its the fuel pump so i know that it will be ok with a new one rather than be a pain and try changing/checking everything related to this issue. only had the walboro just over a year or so, but catchmeifyoucan01 only had his walboro for 2 months i think until it packed up! so how can you check the fuel pumps ok, other than changing it? i still got the standard one to swap if no other way.
cheers
 
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pulsarboby

Guest
it could be anything tbh aron, as i said on the phone!
sometimes things happen at the same time with no rhyme nor reason, first thing i would do is check the kv readings on your ht system to make sure there all ok then if they are then i would change the fuel filter first and go from there.
always do the cheap things first as more often than not its one of those that will cause a problem.
same rule with any car
check all ignition components, then check all fuelling!
 

catchmeifyoucan01

New Member
yes mate my 255 fuel pump packed up after 2months what i did is put the standard fuel pump back on and tryed it and you should know straight away if its diffrent.but rember to turn your boost down a bit
 
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pulsarboby

Guest
there not dear to buy, around £80 i think but are a brilliant bit of kit for diagnosing ign probs, just clip the meter on the lead and it will give you a kilovolt readout and if its too high or low then you have a prob on that particular ht circuit.
you can check plugs, leads, coil king lead etc as well as a few other tests.
if you were down this way i could check it for you but your not lol
bought mine from gunsons years ago but i assume they still make the things, or if not then i believe sykes & pickavant make one but will be expensive from them

another way to check is by doing a cylinder balance test!
by this i mean remove one lead at a time and note the rpm drop, if one cylinder doesnt drop as much as the other 3 and you know it has good compression then the chances are theres a problem with the ignition on that particular circuit which could be a plug or lead breaking down under load.
hope that helps a little
 
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