Power

L

Luciphus

Guest
Hi everyone, well im a 1st time R owner as of a few weeks ago and loving her already. Got a bit of work to do before she is in tip top condition as previous owners have neglected her a bit.
There is a main problem which is power....ive driven one other pulsar before this one and it seemed alot faster than this one, im pretty sure that standrad it should have 222bhp, however i can only just blow my brother off the lights by a fraction and he is driving a GTI Almera (150bhp).

The in car boost gauge does seem to only go up to +4 which im guessing is 0.4 bar, so i suspect that someone has adjusted the boost down because again i think they should be running 0.7bar standard. However im not sure if 0.3 bar would make up for about 70bhp that im lacking.

I will be taking the car on a rolling road soon, although ive got to find a decent jap specialest around guildford way in surrey. IF anyone has any suggestions about what to do or knows of a good rolling road near by to me could you let me know...cheers guys
 

Dooie Pop Pop

New Member
:wave: welcome to the club fella.

id suggest doing a fault code check first. see the sticky in the problem solving section;-)

stay away from garages till you think you know whats wrong mate you' ll only get striped up and tbh most of the things it could be you could fix yourself if your ok with a spanner;-)

stu
 

stevepudney

GTiROC CHAIRMAN
Staff member
Welcome to the club matey :thumbsup:

If standard the only way of justing the boost down would be by using a bleed valve or some other sort of boost control.

Why would anyone want to turn the boost down :der:

The other thing to check would be your base ignition timing, as long as your using Optimax your timing should be at +20 degrees, if your timing is out that could effect your power alot.

it could also be a collection of things, these are the things worth checking :

Distributer cap
Rotor arm in good condition
Ignition leads in good condition
Spark plugs with correct gap
Correct fuel = Optimax
Correct oil = Fully Synthetic Castol Formula RS
Correct Ignition Timing (this will effect your boost if far enough out)

Also, if you have no electrical boost control check to see if you can see a bleed valve under the bonnet.


Good luck mate

Steve
 

Rishi

Still waiting on some shims!
stevepudney said:
Correct oil = Fully Synthetic Castol Formula RS

I wouldn't use that oil.... Its actually mineral oil... They get to call it Fully Synthetic through a legal loophole...

Once apon a time it used to be everything it said it was but over the years they have been degrading it for cheaper manufacture but keeping the prices up...

Go to Opie Oils and get yourself some Silkoline Pro S 10w/50... Its a true Ester based Fully Synthetic Oil...



Rishi
 
L

Luciphus

Guest
Well my car is standard apart from a HKS Induction Kit and blow off valve, no other mods that i know of. The guy who sold it to me had a Rolling road printout but with no date in it and it was running 236bhp at 6250rpm, however i'm definately sure it is not running that.
I have checked the timing and it is ok, but am not sure that about a 60-70bhp loss could be caused by simply leads, plugs and service items. I have changed the oil for a decent grade and changed the oil filter too. I am using optimax aswell.

I dont have an adjustable boost valve anywhere that i know off but will check under the bonnet for a bleed valve or something similar, i have actually ordered a manual in car boost controller myself off ebay and will maybe fit it depending on what problems i find or valves undert the bonnet.

Btw i got a bloody blowout on the M3 today, was not very happy, now gotta go buy a couple of new 17" tyres. That should be cheap :)
any other advise would be gratefully received
 

stevepudney

GTiROC CHAIRMAN
Staff member
RishiGTiR said:
I wouldn't use that oil.... Its actually mineral oil... They get to call it Fully Synthetic through a legal loophole...

Once apon a time it used to be everything it said it was but over the years they have been degrading it for cheaper manufacture but keeping the prices up...

Go to Opie Oils and get yourself some Silkoline Pro S 10w/50... Its a true Ester based Fully Synthetic Oil...



Rishi
Yes I know that :? give me some credit. I was mearly sugesting he use that RS as apposed to Magnetec or some of the other crap people are told to put in these cars. Personally though if your going all out then go for the Silkoline Pro S 10w/50 or if you need that little extra then go for the Silkoline Pro R 15w/50 (Rishi take note, the Pro R 15w/50 is recommended for the high fuel drag car as it clings to the cylinder walls a little better than the Pro S 10w/50 ;-) )
 

Dooie Pop Pop

New Member
Luciphus said:
any other advise would be gratefully received

id suggest doing a fault code check first. see the sticky in the problem solving section
:eyebrows:

if your det sensor is playing up it will cut boost down to .5 or less and retard the timing(might not show when static) that would easily rob you of 60 bhp:-D or you could ignore me again and take delight in the pleasures of reading Steve' s and Rishi' s bitchfight which has absolutely nothing to do with your problem:-D

knackered leads/dizzy/rotor arm/plugs ect. blocked fuel filter wont help either.

stu
 
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stevepudney

GTiROC CHAIRMAN
Staff member
He started it !! :lol: :lol:

and yes Stu your right, I was a little side tracked there for a mo :oops:

In all seriousness though a few of the things above put together would easily rob you of that missing 60 ish break.

Steve
 

Rishi

Still waiting on some shims!
Yeah sorry got a little side tracked there... And yes i probably did start it... :lol:

Didn't know about the 15w/50 though... Will have a chat with Opie Oils about that one as they recommended 10w/50 to me...

Back on topic though, yes check all the ignition components that Steve has listed above and you are more than likely to find your problem...



Rishi
 
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