please read

[RJC]

I've had my pulsar for 3 weeks now, and I've put a couple of posts about a problem I've got. After getting used to it for a bit hopefully I can describe the problem so somebody who has had the same problem before and can help me work it out.

The car is a fresh import, and 100% standard and unabused.

The dials all tell me the car is ok, (the oil pres riases when you put your foot down for a while, but I take it this is normal). The intercooler is not overheating, and I'm pretty sure all the turbo pipes are not losing pressure.

The problem is that when I drive the car slowley through town, and/or following other cars without useing the turbo in a gear so the revs are not high for roughly 20-30mins, when I get the chance to put my foot down it dosen't pick up as it should. The car seems to lag more, and even feels like it's slowing breifly, then it accelerates but it doesn't feel like the turbo is working, although the guage shows normal boosting. I know when the car will do this because when driving through town if I gently accelerate untill the turbo is starting to take effect, it jerks a bit and power loss is felt when I'd expect the turbo to pull.

When driving the car hard, or on dual carriageways it's fine.

I'm going to change the plugs, fuel filter, and upgrade the airfilter.

I haven't tried doing the fault code check as I don't know what I'm doing there, and worry I could mess something up!

Any help would be greatly appricated.

 

[skiddusmarkus]

Search on "heatsoak" for enlightenment.

 

[kyepan]

yer man, also u can't mess anything up doing a fault code check, u just need a little paperclip.

what fuel are you using out of interest?
hope u get it sorted out.. 8)

 

[Dooie Pop Pop]

has the car been set up for uk fuel mate :?:

 

[RJC]

has the car been set up for uk fuel mate :?:

using optimax, and no I don't think it's been set up for uk fuel, how do I go about this?

 

[j10gtr]

the car will want the timing checked to ensure its ok usualy needs retarding for UK Fuel.

The problems sound like the others have said Heatsoak the intercooler is getting hot in traffic making the intake air much hotter as it enters the throttle bodies thus reducing the power. Then when the traffic breaks and your going quicker there is plenty of air hitting the intercooler cooling it down reducing the air intake temperature and thus power feels as normal.

Next time you have been poodling around in traffic pull up some where and feel your intercooler and then repeat this after a nice run with no traffic and feel the difference.

Thanks
Paul

 

[Davey]

Try the fault code check, and make sure its not your det sensor first.
Other than that, a front mounted intercooler should fix it (thats what I did when i had enough of the heat soak)

 

[Davey]

What happens if the timing is too far advanced(apart from detting and killing your pistons). Surely, this wont slow the car down, or put it into "safe mode", as this only happens when there is a fault on the det sensor circuit?

 

[geetee]

If the car is detting the ecu goes into Safe Mode - retards the timing etc until the detting stops. So the car feels like it is holding back.

If the ECU detects a fault on the Det Sensor it goes into Limp Home mode which is seriously restricted... won't rev above a certain rpm etc.


You may be getting enough heatsoak to cause the engine to start detting when you next floor it.

Get your ignition timing altered, then if you still have the problem and you can't live with it, fit a front mount IC.

Oh yeh - a fault code check won't tell you if the det sensor has triggered and put the car in Safe Mode - that's just normal operation.

Cheers
GeeTee 8)

 

[RJC]

Thanks for everyones help.

After doing a fair bit of searching I'm pretty sure it's heatsoak.

Has anyone manged to solve this other than getting a front mount? And do you think upgrading my air filter may help?

 

[Jonny H]

You could try a water injection system? :roll:.........Go with a FMIC!

As for your air filter, is it the standard filter? :shock: If so then yes get that out!!

 

[Fast Guy]

Did you ever do the fault code check?

 

[RJC]

Did you ever do the fault code check?

Yes I've done it loads of times, always comes back 55.

I'm almost 100% sure it's not heat soak thats causing my problems either.

I've been told that setting the fuel for uk is nonsense by quite a few people.

Thanks for try help fast guy, is well needed at the mo

 

[AJ4]

If you need to keep the top mount intercooler, it would probably be a good idea to get WI. I did a few before and after tests with WI when I had a top mount and it made quite a big difference. After sitting in traffic for a while, all you needed was one quick buzz and the cooler temp dropped right back down again. Bit expensive though, just to cure heatsoak, probably better off buying a front mount...

 

[RJC]

If you need to keep the top mount intercooler, it would probably be a good idea to get WI. I did a few before and after tests with WI when I had a top mount and it made quite a big difference. After sitting in traffic for a while, all you needed was one quick buzz and the cooler temp dropped right back down again. Bit expensive though, just to cure heatsoak, probably better off buying a front mount...

Heatsoak is not the problem

 

[AJ4]

It still sounds like its heat related though. Could be the water temp sensor, it can go quite a way out of normal before it registers as a hard fault by the ecu, might be worth checking it.

 

[RJC]

It still sounds like its heat related though. Could be the water temp sensor, it can go quite a way out of normal before it registers as a hard fault by the ecu, might be worth checking it.

How can I check the sensor

 

[Fast Guy]

I've been told that setting the fuel for uk is nonsense by quite a few people.

Do you mean setting the ignition timing for uk fuel?
It will help if you are suffering det by retarding it slightly.

I'm not overly convinced it's heatsoak either as all the standard Gtirs would suffer from it and it shouldn't be that bad, just a slight sense of not performing 100%

 

[AJ4]

Basically you stick it in some water and heat it up, and read the resistance of it at different temperatures.

20'C = 2.1 - 2.9 KOhms
50'C = 0.68 - 1.0 KOhms
80'C = 0.30 - 0.33 KOhms

All you need is a thermometer and a multimeter. Becasue its meant to work over a range of resistances, the thing could be knacked and stuck on 2.9 KOhms when it should be 0.30 KOhms and the ECU would never pick it up as a fault because it still falls within its operational range. I use a pot of water on the cooker and a digital thermometer.

 

[RJC]

Basically you stick it in some water and heat it up, and read the resistance of it at different temperatures.

20'C = 2.1 - 2.9 KOhms
50'C = 0.68 - 1.0 KOhms
80'C = 0.30 - 0.33 KOhms

All you need is a thermometer and a multimeter. Becasue its meant to work over a range of resistances, the thing could be knacked and stuck on 2.9 KOhms when it should be 0.30 KOhms and the ECU would never pick it up as a fault because it still falls within its operational range. I use a pot of water on the cooker and a digital thermometer.

Right I see if I can source a multimeter.

Thanks