PFC woes part 3

campbellju

Moderators
Staff member
Well this has been going on for a while now with trying to get my PFC to work on my car that worked immediately on another and another standard PFC also wouldn't work on m ine.

So its believed to be the car.

To cut along story short, the car won't rev past 1800rpm. I believe the car is running so rich the car stops igniting the mix past that point. It used to rev to around 2500 but since I've re-done all my earths all over the car and put in a few new earth straps its dropped.

On a positive, the standard ECU is running sweeter than ever and I've taken another 200rpm off my idle. The car walked the emissions test on its MOT a month or so ago so there is nothing fundamentally wrong.

After satisfying myself that the MAF, plugs, coil, leads, ignition amplifier, TPS, water temp and most of the loom are okay I looked towards the injectors.

I've put a scope on the earth of the injectors at the ECU and watched the pulse on the standard ECU at the PFC. At first I could see at idle the PFC was putting in 3ms of fuel when the standard ECU was about 2ms. When I acclerate gently, this value on the PFC goes to 4ms whilst on standard it changes very little. So the car is running rich (the black spark plugs and petrol exhaust fumes also hint at this :roll: )

The resistor pack gives all the correct readings when tested and has no dynamic parts so I believe this to be fine too.

Today I swapped the injectors for the 700cc's I have and changed their settings to some off here. The same thing happened, as soon as you acclerate, the engine stutters. When I watch the signal, Cylinders 1 and 2 respond normally but the signal from 3 loses its (trigger) signal on the scope so I can't tell what it is doing at the point of misfiring. On the other injectors, the pulse just extends on the scope past 5ms point and continues to inject as much fuel as it thinks is needed. Past a point though the engine just bangs and pops which isn't suprising when it has nearly 200% the fuel it really needs going into the cylinder.

I've hooked up my timing light to the leads to get a visual indication of what they were doing but on cylinder 3 again the light goes out when the misfire happens. Is this because it stops firing or the fact they're covered in petrol?

The only other bit of evidence is when I first fitted the PFC and some new iridium plugs, it didn't go well for a few minutes so I took them out and put them to the side to this day. 3 are fine, 1 is brown. This is why I thought injector 3 might have a problem but swapping them has made no difference.

That's a brief summary of the background as I could go on forever with all my findings but these are my next two leads that I can't test until a week today because I'm away on work.

1. Here is a good link on how to test injectors amongst other things if you browse around the site: http://www.picotech.com/auto/articles/electronic-fuel-injection.html

If you look at the voltage saturated scope I'm getting a similar pulse but the signal drops to 0.6V on the PFC rather than 0.5V on standard ECU. Does this matter? Do I need to Earth bond at the ECU as well as on the manifold?

2. My Lambda sensor is reading 0.2V (lean) that means either I've killed it over the weekend or there is a fault with how it talks to the PFC? I will need to check the lamda on the old ECU again to make sure but it would explain why the car keeps chucking in too much fuel. It thinks its running lean so is always throwing in too much fuel, the car never gets an opportunity to run stoich. How can a Lambda not communicate with the PFC? Like I say, I'll have to check this out. I notice the Lambda uses a different Earth that I have already cleaned etc but I will double check.

The whole thing is a little bit chiken and egg, and the more you test, the more the plugs get covered in petrol and carbon so the less well it works. At the start of the weekend I bought some more plugs as the last ones got so bad the PFC couldn't start and would barely run at all. Because of the injector pulse widths, I believe any sparking problems are down to the overfueling first though and any spark failure is a secondary affect.

If there are any generous R owners in the North West, I wouldn't mind swapping the PFC with a standard ECU in my car and vice versa to prove again what RC had already done and double check the PFC ECU is still working.

Aside from that, I'll keep plugging away when I get back from work but would appreciate any ideas.

....and yes, that e-manage option is looking very tempting.

Cheers,
Jim
 

Shaun

New Member
;-) I've got to congratulate you on your determination mate 8) .Injector resistor pack?Have you tried re-earthing the MAF?Also if you think the ECU isnt receiveing a singnal from the MAF,have you thought about running a temporary signal wire between the 2?
 

stumo

Active Member
Jim, my car is sitting there doing nothing. You can borrow stuff off it if you need to.

PM me if ya need stuff.
 

campbellju

Moderators
Staff member
Thanks for your thoughts gents. Stu, if you have a totally standard ECU, maybe a resistor pack it might help but I'll PM Geoff as to see the PFC working on another car will give me a lot more info.

Cheers,
Jim
 

Mr GTiR

New Member
Let me know how you get on Jim as i have all the parts you need but no engine to use them on LOL
 

campbellju

Moderators
Staff member
Cheers Andy. I might have to start bribing you with KFC and Stella :D but I will keep you informed and say how I get on.

Cheers,
Jim
 

campbellju

Moderators
Staff member
Update for what its worth.

I found I was getting some feedback through the Earth for the Lambda when the ignition was switched on. This had nothing to do with the ECU but was maybe a light or something else from the earth at the front left. I moved the Earth to the central point I have made on the right hand side so the resitance and voltage stay the same now. I imagine on our cars this could be a common fault and Steve P had this mod recommended by someone else too.

The engine seemed to be able to self learn again once the Lambda sensor had warmed up and you could see the Lambda sensor working. After 15 mintues after playing with ignition timings, idle rpms and the idle control valve, it seemed to settle back to 1300rpm but sounded healthy rather than super rich.

It still won't rev past 2000rpm though so I'll have to check over the injectors again tonight. I want to confirm the injector pulse timing and see if I can see the pulse breakdown again at the limit.

**Quick question, my ECU seems to lose all power when you turn off the ignition, I've not checked the wiring diagrams yet but does that sound right or might I have an imobiliser playing silly games?
 
A

AJ4

Guest
The PFC needs a constant live or you'll have to go through the idle learning every time you start it... ;)
 

campbellju

Moderators
Staff member
Cheers Ross, that was my thinking. Should be an easy thing to check.

Of course, everytime I swap ECU's it will have the same effect anyway :doh: :roll: :lol:

I don't think this is my cuase but it aint helping.
 
A

AJ4

Guest
I'd say check the obvious things that stop it running when you put a PFC in, like having the boost control kit set to the wrong setting, setting the fuel cut wrong etc etc. These would stop the car revving over 2000 rpm. Sorry for the suck eggs, I'm sure you've thought of that :D
 

campbellju

Moderators
Staff member
All egg sucking lessons appreciated as its easy to lose sight of the problem. Except when I gave the car to a tuner who came back 30minutes later and told me my Fuel cut settings were okay when I had told him the same thing at arrival (I don't think he charged me for that portion of time thankfully :D)

The idle/fuel cut control is definately not the problem, I've used your settings ;-) (Modified now as I understand them all too)

The boost control kit settings I'll double check. On or off doesn't make a difference on my car as I have the kit but maybe there's something more subtle in the actual boost configuration. Any hints on a safe setting? One thing that is not clear is how to see which of the boost control settings the car is using. You just setup the 4 different ranges and....?
 
Top