oil question
- Thread starter gtir bean
- Start date
Will it work? Yes
Is it best for engine reliability and reducing frictional losses? No
Is it best for engine reliability and reducing frictional losses? No
Semi synthetics are petroleum based oils and not synthetics at all in the true sense of the word. They're cheaper because they are not as good as proper synthetics.
Will it work - Yes
Does it give the best protection - No
Worth reminding people of this:
A word of caution – You get what you pay for!
Below is an article written by John Rowland, Silkolene/Fuchs Chief R & D Chemist for 40 years.
Quote:
Costs of synthetics vary considerably.
The most expensive are the “Ester” types originally only used in jet engines.
These cost 6 to 10 times more than high quality mineral oils. The cheapest synthetics are not really synthetic at all, from a chemists point of view. These are in fact specially refined light viscosity mineral oils known as “hydrocracked”. These have some advantages over equivalent mineral oils, particularly in lower viscosity motor oils such as 5w-30 or other oils with a low “W” rating such as 5w-50 etc and they cost about 1.5 times more than good quality mineral fractions.
We use several different grades of this base oil, where appropriate. This is the “synthetic” which is always used in cheap oils that are labelled “synthetic”. Yes it’s a cruel world, you get what you pay for!
Now, you may ask, why are these special mineral oils called “synthetic”?
Well, it was all sorted in a legal battle that took place in the USA about ten years ago. Sound reasons (including evidence from a Nobel Prize winning chemist) were disregarded and the final ruling was that certain mineral bases that had undergone extra chemical treatments could be called “synthetic”.
Needless to say, the marketing executives wet their knickers with pure delight! They realised that this meant, and still does, that the critical buzz-word “synthetic” could be printed on a can of cheap oil provided that the contents included a few percent of “hydrocracked” mineral oil, at a cost of quite literally a few pence.
So, the chemistry of “synthetics” is complex and so is the politics!
The economics are very simple. If you like the look of a smart well-marketed can with “synthetic” printed on it, fair enough, it will not cost you a lot; and now you know why this is the case. But, if you drive a high performance car, and you intend to keep it for several years, and maybe do the odd “track day”, then you need a genuine Ester/PAO (Poly Alpha Olefin) synthetic oil.
This oil costs more money to buy, because it costs us a lot of money to make, very simply, you always get what you pay for!
Unquote:
This article is something that all car owners should read and understand before buying oil and I’ve posted this with Johns permission.
Cheers
Guy
Will it work - Yes
Does it give the best protection - No
Worth reminding people of this:
A word of caution – You get what you pay for!
Below is an article written by John Rowland, Silkolene/Fuchs Chief R & D Chemist for 40 years.
Quote:
Costs of synthetics vary considerably.
The most expensive are the “Ester” types originally only used in jet engines.
These cost 6 to 10 times more than high quality mineral oils. The cheapest synthetics are not really synthetic at all, from a chemists point of view. These are in fact specially refined light viscosity mineral oils known as “hydrocracked”. These have some advantages over equivalent mineral oils, particularly in lower viscosity motor oils such as 5w-30 or other oils with a low “W” rating such as 5w-50 etc and they cost about 1.5 times more than good quality mineral fractions.
We use several different grades of this base oil, where appropriate. This is the “synthetic” which is always used in cheap oils that are labelled “synthetic”. Yes it’s a cruel world, you get what you pay for!
Now, you may ask, why are these special mineral oils called “synthetic”?
Well, it was all sorted in a legal battle that took place in the USA about ten years ago. Sound reasons (including evidence from a Nobel Prize winning chemist) were disregarded and the final ruling was that certain mineral bases that had undergone extra chemical treatments could be called “synthetic”.
Needless to say, the marketing executives wet their knickers with pure delight! They realised that this meant, and still does, that the critical buzz-word “synthetic” could be printed on a can of cheap oil provided that the contents included a few percent of “hydrocracked” mineral oil, at a cost of quite literally a few pence.
So, the chemistry of “synthetics” is complex and so is the politics!
The economics are very simple. If you like the look of a smart well-marketed can with “synthetic” printed on it, fair enough, it will not cost you a lot; and now you know why this is the case. But, if you drive a high performance car, and you intend to keep it for several years, and maybe do the odd “track day”, then you need a genuine Ester/PAO (Poly Alpha Olefin) synthetic oil.
This oil costs more money to buy, because it costs us a lot of money to make, very simply, you always get what you pay for!
Unquote:
This article is something that all car owners should read and understand before buying oil and I’ve posted this with Johns permission.
Cheers
Guy
A
Anonymous
Guest
Use Mobil 1 motorsport 15w/50
Dino and semi synthetics will coke up in the turbo over time regardless of how long you leave the engine to idle after a hard run.
Dino and semi synthetics will coke up in the turbo over time regardless of how long you leave the engine to idle after a hard run.
A
Anonymous
Guest
I find that anything from 0 - 10w gets burnt in my engines, normally from leaking past the turbo oil seals. 15w/50 never uses a drop, and I find the engine is a lot quieter too.
A
Anonymous
Guest
Redline 10w 40, get 7000ks per change and its never burnt. Lovely stuff :!: :!:
http://www.redlineoil.com/products_motoroil.asp?pvID=53&prodID=45&subcatID=14
http://www.redlineoil.com/products_motoroil.asp?pvID=53&prodID=45&subcatID=14
mattygti-r
New Member
go for silkolene "s" from oil man with an uprated oil filter
8)
8)
S
smcnairn
Guest
So what filter do you lot recomend? and where from. just got my GTIR and wantin to change oil and was wonderin what yous think. still trying to decide what oil is best!?? :?
mattygti-r
New Member
well those of you lucky enough to have been sent a jap spec oil filter from myself can post your results 
i dont think im going back to them micra filters lol
its uprated due to the better materials used and the increased/improved filtration, it also lasts longer,
if any one wants one just pm me and i will bring some to the PTS meet
8)
i dont think im going back to them micra filters lolits uprated due to the better materials used and the increased/improved filtration, it also lasts longer,
if any one wants one just pm me and i will bring some to the PTS meet
8)