oh fooking hell!

mattygti-r

New Member
right my R has caused me no grief in the past 18months of ownership apart from one alternator and a battery goign (was a little jap spec one so expect it)

right taken the car out today and its had a good run down to southhampton and back the other day too....used it today as i say no prbs

not driven it hard (it never gets driven hard)

ive an AP paddle clutch which has a habbit of "rattling" when you release the clutch peddle sounds like realease bearing but its been like that since i picked it up (and the clutch was put in about 2weeks by RC before i got it)

went out to the car this evening, it started fine....went to select First ...nothing....went to second nothing...etc 3 4, 5, nothing tried again ...nothing

depressed clutch (pressed it a few times) then tried to select without clutch...finally after about 5-6 times it went into first, second and all the gears....

drove the car about 5-7miles back to mine...clutch /gear select is fine...

what could be wrong? the clutch has covered 30k miles if that...and the car does not get "launched"

gearbox dont like going into first when cold....

and the fluid has not been changed in it for some time (just checked last change) by previous owner)

any help appreciated as im shitting it could be the box :oops:
 

Fast Guy

Moderators
Staff member
I'd have a look at your linkages underneath the car first and hope something has worked loose. Check your clutch fluid level is fine too, just incase. Failing that hope it doesn't happen again :wink:
 
M

Mr Overboooost

Guest
get rid of the paddle clutch as eventually your gearbox will break :(


cheers
gary :)
 

mattygti-r

New Member
how difficult to change clutch fluid and gearbox fluid?

and to check this too...sorry if this seems stupid

cheers

matt
 

Fast Guy

Moderators
Staff member
As long as your filler and drain plugs aren't seized, easy. Hardest part is the fillers are both abit awkard to get to with a top up bottle, a long bendy spouted funnel is a good idea for the gearbox filler. Transfer box just involves pushing the 1 litre top up bottle through small spaces and pouring it over yourself. :oops:
 

mattygti-r

New Member
the car is never driven hard, using the paddle clutch so dont expect things to go bang... :oops:

fast guy dont think anything is seized as teh car drove fine on the way back...

will get the levels checked and changed :)

is there a gearbox oil change guide on here rather than the ever so helpful " pour it over urself " approach lol :lol:
 
E

Edd

Guest
possible slave cylinder fault not opening the clutch out fully to engage, get someone to see how far the slave cylinder rods pushing the clutch arm out, could be dodgy cylinder leaking, check clutch fluid level
 

Fast Guy

Moderators
Staff member
mattygti-r said:
is there a gearbox oil change guide on here rather than the ever so helpful " pour it over urself " approach lol :lol:
:roll: That was the transfer box :roll: :p


It's easy, make sure you can undo the filler plug before you drain the oil though. Drain the old oil til empty, replace drain plug and refill with new oil until it just starts to trickle out of the filler hole. Replace filler plug and dispose of old oil in an environmently friendly way :wink:

Gearbox is around 4.3L and transfer box around 1.3L
 
A

ard1ey

Guest
Try to use the proper 1/2" & 3/4" square keys to undo the drain and filler plugs if you can get them. I tried doing it with a normal socket set and discovered halfway through that they break big time :D
I think my gearbox drain plug was done up to about a million Nm :(
 

mattygti-r

New Member
cheers lads, will get my mate to have a look at it tomororw

replace fluids and go from there :)

how much cluctch fluid does it take?
 
A

Anonymous

Guest
Try redline gearbox oil. I thought I had to replace my clutch when I got my R. I could not get first unless I was at a standstill and pumped a couple of times. Only by chance I had to replace my reverse selector switch that I started to look into oils for the gearbox. Long story short, after 500k's can select first while rolling and smoother gear changes all round!!! 35000k's later and still running like a dream (going to use redline shock proof lite, supposed to be better than MTL90) :lol: :lol: Also got an extra 70k's out of a tank too! All from the reverse selector 8)
 
S

samellio

Guest
did you know you can adjust the biting point of the clutch pedal???
try that (just a 8 or 10 mm spanner needed at top of clutch pedal- even i could do it :wink: )..
Probably not the above but more likely the slave and master cylinder- quite common and not expensive to replace- had this on my old car :wink:
 

mattygti-r

New Member
LOL turns out the clutch fluid is a pile of poo.,, gearbox oil was clean and i mean clean as a whistle....

replaced clutch fluid, the ap paddle clutch is great to use now where as before it was shite

:lol: cheers for yoru help guys!

matt
 
J

J-GTi-R

Guest
Keep an eye on the fluid though, if it starts turning black again, either a seal is going somewhere, or the flexi hose is rotting from the inside.
 

Dooie Pop Pop

New Member
J-GTi-R said:
Keep an eye on the fluid though, if it starts turning black again, either a seal is going somewhere, or the flexi hose is rotting from the inside.
that means take the lid off the reservoir and look lazy ar*e :lol:
 
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