Not R related - but I'd appreciate HELP!

geetee

Active Member
OK.. I have problem with my daily work runner. 1990 Celica GT (Front WD).

I recently replaced all brake pads (3K miles ago). They squealed a bit at first and created a lot of dust cos the discs are far from perfect but then they seemed to have bedded in fine.

I have a problem now when with any left steering lock at all (e.g. changing lanes on the motorway). I get a metallic swishing / rubbing noise from the driver's side rear wheel.

It sounds very like the noise from a brake pad level warning clip rubbing the disc. In that it's pitch and sound increases with road speed - so I'm sure it's a rotating part rubbing something else.

However, the rear pads do not have warning clips on.

I have had the rear wheel off but can't see anything obvious. But as it only happens on left lock only I'm not surprised.

What I did notice though was that the bushes in the suspension tie arms that hold the wheel hub square are worn... there's 2 per rear wheel. So that if I grab the wheel - one hand to the front one back I can move it. I can see the play is in these bushes and if I try the play in a vertical plane, there's none - so I'm guessing the wheel bearings are OK.

However, I can't see why I get a speed related rotational noise on left turns only. It must be something to do with how the wheel moves on a left turn.

The other rear wheel has similar play in the bushes but makes no noises at all.

I'm being a cheapskate here... I don't want to shell out for new bushes as I am spending all my dosh on the R at the moment. I use the Celica to do 80 miles on the M25 / M1 each day and that's it.

Any other thoughts before I replace the suspension bushes??

I'm just confused that it is on left turn only....

hmmm

Cheers
GeeTee 8)
 
J

jasegould

Guest
If you have a lip on the discs when you turn it can some times put just enuf load to reduce the clearance between brake pad and discs and the lip can just catch the pad and make a noise, hard to explain but i had the same prob at work before. Also if you have a metal back plate on the brakes and there isnt enuf clearance you can have the same problem, get it a lot on the vauxhalls. Might be an idea :?:
 

sypher

New Member
ditto.. take off the corroded lip on the outer circumfrence of the disk, or check behind the disk for the disk gaurd / ball joint sheild fouling.
 

Fast Guy

Moderators
Staff member
sypher said:
ditto.. take off the corroded lip on the outer circumfrence of the disk, or check behind the disk for the disk gaurd / ball joint sheild fouling.
I'd check the dust gaurd thingy too. If it's realy close it may be making contact when the wheel moves abit.
 

geetee

Active Member
that kinda makes sense but not really.

the movement is in the bushes that tie to the underside of the chassis from the back of the wheel assembly.

This assembly carries the wheel, the brake caliper bracket, caliper and the dust shield - so if the assembly moves it all moves with it... so they should all stay in line.

I think :?

I know you're right - I'm just trying to find a cheap get out clause.

I'm on the verge of committing the Celica either to the scrappers or another 2 year stint. It either goes to the great metal meltdown or I need to replace discs and pads all round, replace springs and dampers all round , replace all 4 tyres, replace the cambelt (well over due), replace the clutch.

All this for a 14 year old car with 175K miles on it. But then I feel obliged as it's had nothing but regular service to get it to this mileage. Apart from brake line replacement front to back due to rot.

How can u become attached to a lump of metal???? :shock:

Oh well.... it burns a bit of oil but it is doing 400 miles a week for me going to work and never lets me down - does about 33mpg (M1 at 65mph each way!). Wish I could say that about the R... :evil:

Perhaps I'll give it a new lease of life.

Cheers
GeeTee 8)
 
Top