Nissan Pulsar GTi-R GTIR Turbo Manifold SR20DET RNN14

GTiR_Mic

GTiR_Mic

New Member
Make sure you have some decent bracing as it will just crack.

THat is the problem I found with mine, the bracing came lose and it crakced.

Mic
 
davey red.r

davey red.r

New Member
EssexAaron said:
aint a manifold if badly made even more restrictive then the standard one?

a standard manifold can run 400+
Click to expand...
yes,they can be,
a standard one will do the job very nicely indeedy,
they look bling tho if you like that sort of carry on.:yawn:





davey;-)
 
davey red.r

davey red.r

New Member
GTiR_Mic said:
Make sure you have some decent bracing as it will just crack.

THat is the problem I found with mine, the bracing came lose and it crakced.

Mic
Click to expand...
did you see any noticable difference mick?
over your standard one?
before it cracked.




davey;-)
 
Braveheart

Braveheart

New Member
GTiR_Mic said:
Make sure you have some decent bracing as it will just crack.

THat is the problem I found with mine, the bracing came lose and it crakced.

Mic
Click to expand...
Which part did you brace Mic?
I could try bracing ex' outlet/turbo to engine and turbo/elbow to engine.
Not really into bling but it should be easier to heat rap that than the standard ex manifold.
I have a heat blanket for the turbo housing and will try to rap the elbow and downpipe as well.
Anyway, in for a penny, in for a pound. I'll keep you posted.
It should look similar to this except I shall rap everything.

 
A

azboy

New Member
more inportant then any gains to me is that 3 pistons outlets are shared with half the manifold and 1 with the other half, the reason to having things like throttal bodys is to make sure each piston gets even amounts of air but if u have lots of back pressure on 3 of these thats not the best as 1 piston at top end of revs will give more power then the other 3.
 
T

turbodaily

New Member
had one on my evo 3, spool up was a tad quicker thats about it as far as gains.. i welded abit of stainless bar from flange to flange to support it, and it never cracked. as long as you do it from day one they should last a while
 
antgtir

antgtir

New Member
Ive just seen small pieces of steel welded to the underside of each outlet creating a triangle beneath each outlet pipe.

The difference in length of pipe will (well should) even out the back pressure to each piston. If the spaghetti junction was not welded with mandrel bends then the back pressure created on each bend for pistons 2,3 and 4 would be significant enough to effect the internal combustion. With the mandrel bends you dont get the same restrictions.

Thats my understanding anyway lol

Worth a try if youve got it for reasonable money, brace and lag it and im sure you will be in top shape *he says touching wood lol* Goodluck ;)

Ant.
 
Y

youngsyp

Active Member
Braveheart said:
Which part did you brace Mic?
I could try bracing ex' outlet/turbo to engine and turbo/elbow to engine.
Not really into bling but it should be easier to heat rap that than the standard ex manifold.
I have a heat blanket for the turbo housing and will try to rap the elbow and downpipe as well.
Anyway, in for a penny, in for a pound. I'll keep you posted.
It should look similar to this except I shall rap everything.

Click to expand...
Scott,

You just need to look at where all the weight is, and where it would be pulling from/exerting the most force....

Previously, I would have welded some triangular or rectangular plates between the manifold flange and the tops of each runner..... However, after reading about the manifold on an Evo 3, above, with the round bar welded between the two points, on each runner, I like the sound of that even more !

I'd also do the same, at the turbo end.
Paul
 
K

Keira

New Member
this thread is making my eyes bleed just reading it :lol:

theres absolutely nothing to be gained by buying a cheap sh!Tty manifold. The standard one is going to be good enough for the figures you will get with a t2 flanged turbo as proved numerous times now.
 
J

jameswrx2

Member
If you're really lucky the flanges might be flat too.

They look so naff to me, especially when you look at the fullrace and AMS manifolds the evo boys get.
 
Braveheart

Braveheart

New Member
Ok peeps... thanks for all the feedback.
Mic, Ant, azboy and turbodaily on the possative side... there are a few on the bench and one that has gone blind...:lol:

It's not a waste of time for me as I have to go through the motions anyway to change my turbo and downpipe. I can lag the sh1t manifold (if thats what it turns out to be) a lot easier then the OE one. The information on bracing the sh1t manifold has been taken on board and I will try to protect it as best I can. Weld between the runners sounds like the advice given.

From my first post, I was embarrassed to even admit the quality of manifold that I had committed to but what the heck I'm going to give it a go.
There is a lot of snobery in wine you know... hick-up.... :doh: :lol: ;-)
 
Braveheart

Braveheart

New Member
Well the manifold arrived.
I'm happy with the quality considering the price.
The welds I can see and get my fingers to feel ok.
The flanges are of a good thickness and look machined flat.



 
J

jameswrx2

Member
From the pic on the previous page it certainly looks like it'll make things easier to work on in the turbo area?

I wonder what your dog thinks of it...
 
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