meth/water injection

johnsy

Active Member
iv been reading up on meth/water injection,

I was just wondering if there was any members who have this fitted and working?

Iv picked up an old aquamist kit,but iv been looking at the AEM kit as i might treat myself to a new one if its any good

thanks Dan
 

PobodY

Moderators
Staff member
I know of at least one; LisaZ's because her car is up for sale at the moment.

I think it was originally a group buy, so I suspect there are a few more people out there with it installed. - It's definitely something I'm tempted by, but the price point has always been high enough that I decide I don't need it.
 

johnsy

Active Member
What are the gains?
lower intake temps, reduce's DET so i can run more boost on my standard engine,



Engine Tuning
Water/methanol injection is generally not considered a bolt-on power adder for forced induction
gasoline applications. Engine tuning is usually required in order to maximize potential power
gain. Water/methanol injection allows for a more aggressive tune to be used while still using
pump gas as your base fuel.
Using a 50/50 mix of water/methanol is recommended for the best combination of air charge
cooling and detonation control. With conservative boost and timing, establish a base AFR that
is one point higher than your final target AFR. For example, if your final target AFR with
water/methanol injection is 11.0:1, set your base AFR to 12.0:1. Once the base AFR has been
set, start injecting water/methanol and adjust the injection flow rate to achieve your final target
AFR. For example, if before injection your base AFR is 12.0:1 and then during injection your
AFR drops to 10.5:1, reduce the water/methanol flow rate until your final target AFR is reached.
It is generally recommended that the flow rate of the injection system be changed in order to
reach your target AFR and NOT your primary fueling. Injection flow rate adjustments can be
made by changing your nozzle selection or by adjusting the “Start PSI” and “Full PSI” settings.
Once the injection flow rate is set to deliver your desired final AFR, boost and ignition timing can
be increased to take advantage of the additional air charge cooling and detonation control.
When injecting the correct amount, a 50/50 mix of water/methanol has been shown to provide
an effective octane of over 110 when using a base fuel of 91-93 octane pump gas. A properly
tuned water/methanol injection system will usually support a typical “race gas” engine tune
 
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Thor

Member
That´s correct! But how much boost you will run on the standard engine that you must use them???
 

Thor

Member
Why you must use the WAES on the standard engine? I don´t believe that you will run with up to 2 bar of boost.. So it is safer, but is it necessary?
 

PobodY

Moderators
Staff member
It's not necessary, but it's a good safety net to prevent DET. - I think a lot of people do just run it as a bolt-on mod rather than tuning specifically for it. That way when you forget to top the mixture up, you don't destroy the engine (if you've mapped the car for it to be there and you run-out, then you could be in trouble).

I think most people just have it set to inject when the boost hits an arbitrary amount, like 1.0bar.
 

johnsy

Active Member
thats it george, all though i will be looking to map it in so it's running aswell as intended, as for mixture running out some have failsafe mode's

ill be fitting a 2871r to my standard engine at the end of the month,so im going overkill on the cooling side to hopefully eliminate det
 

johnsy

Active Member
I have a front mounted oil cooler(13 row) fitted,there will be an alloy rad fitted, and i have a ARC tmic fitted(not overkill i know)....................cue the tmic haters

there may also be a deeper sump pan with fins in the pipework
 

skiddusmarkus

Active Member
I've replied to your PM now Johnsy, was on hols before.

I have i on mine.With the older ERL/Aquamist kits there are 2 main types.

The most basic works off a pressure switch connected before the throttle.Its an adjustable switch but they usually come preset at around 10 psi so as soon as you hit this it starts spraying.
The next type is triggered by an aftermarket ecu and is probably the best allround system but obviously needs an expensive ecu.
There is an extra bit of kit you can buy which is a good compromise beween the 2 called the FIA2 which is still triggered by pressure but then monitors injector pulses and varies the spray accordingly.I have the 2nd type of kit but then decided to keep the standard ecu so bought the FIA 2 to make it more refined.Without it you are spraying the same amount of liquid at say 50% throttle as you are at 100% when obviously there's a lot of difference in inlet temps and cylinder temps.
You can also control the amount of spray with different nozzle jets, I started with the smallest which is approx 0.5mm.

At low boost and low temps its not worth it, but it is as pressure and temps rise, especially if you mix it with methanol which increases the octane rating too.

On the day I was at York, I had problems on the way there as my tank was surging on the country roads which allowed it to get an airlock.I've figured out how to get round this now.Also, I had reset my boost controller like a mong so the WI was barely doing anything as it only triggered when I 1st set off and went over 10ish psi but as soon as the boost dropped back to wastegate pressure it switched off again.

There is an absolute ton of info on the ERL/Aqusmist site and the guy who runs the company Richard personally replies to threads and has to be the most helpful aftermarket part manufacturer I have ever seen on the tinterweb.
 
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