I disgnosed a leak on my inlet manifold so thought I would tidy the whole thing up for ease of maintenance as it is a pig to take off and put back together again normally.
Picture from the rear only as you can't see much difference from the front with my pooh camera phone.
I'd previously had a local workshop weld up the dump valve hole so after I'd cut off all the pointless pipes left over from the emissions I'd removed I had them weld up the holes too. The holes on the front are normally blocked rubber caps but the caps kept firing off and getting lost :doh: I'm sure a couple of jubilee clips would have done the job but this is permenatly solved now with cutting and welding plus gives easier access to the nuts too.
The water heater pipe to the manifold was removed and bunged on the water side. This should keep the manifold a bit cooler in the future.
I got rid of the auto choke thing (can't remember the name) as I'd already maintained it once and I wasn't convinced it was working faultlessly.
After all the tidying, I just needed some air hose and to make the links which a visit to the hydraulics shop solved (After a month waiting for the hose :doh: )
Why bother though? Well the manifold leak has now gone so the perfectly mapped car is now too lean at idle and too rich on boost so there must have been a few hp wasted there too. I'm not heating my intake manifold anymore for emissions.
The best bit is I now have full access to all the nuts so it took no time to put the manifold back on or take it off again in the future.
The down side is I lost my auto choke so when you first start the car it fires up fine but then idles around 700rpm for a few minutes :shock: . It drives fine but the idle being so low at first is a bit wierd.
I wouldn't recommend it for the everyday owners but if in the future I need to change anything at the back of the engine I can remove the manifold in about 5 minutes rather than dropping the engine etc.
Weight saving one pointless pipe and bracket at a time
Jim
Picture from the rear only as you can't see much difference from the front with my pooh camera phone.
I'd previously had a local workshop weld up the dump valve hole so after I'd cut off all the pointless pipes left over from the emissions I'd removed I had them weld up the holes too. The holes on the front are normally blocked rubber caps but the caps kept firing off and getting lost :doh: I'm sure a couple of jubilee clips would have done the job but this is permenatly solved now with cutting and welding plus gives easier access to the nuts too.
The water heater pipe to the manifold was removed and bunged on the water side. This should keep the manifold a bit cooler in the future.
I got rid of the auto choke thing (can't remember the name) as I'd already maintained it once and I wasn't convinced it was working faultlessly.
After all the tidying, I just needed some air hose and to make the links which a visit to the hydraulics shop solved (After a month waiting for the hose :doh: )
Why bother though? Well the manifold leak has now gone so the perfectly mapped car is now too lean at idle and too rich on boost so there must have been a few hp wasted there too. I'm not heating my intake manifold anymore for emissions.
The best bit is I now have full access to all the nuts so it took no time to put the manifold back on or take it off again in the future.
The down side is I lost my auto choke so when you first start the car it fires up fine but then idles around 700rpm for a few minutes :shock: . It drives fine but the idle being so low at first is a bit wierd.
I wouldn't recommend it for the everyday owners but if in the future I need to change anything at the back of the engine I can remove the manifold in about 5 minutes rather than dropping the engine etc.
Weight saving one pointless pipe and bracket at a time
Jim
