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Items required:
New injectors and / or o-rings ( Nissan part no ????????? )
Tools required :
7mm socket,
10mm spanner or socket,
12mm socket,
Ratchet and extension,
13mm spanner or socket ( if you have mickalor clamps on your intercooler hoses ),
6mm Allen key, and a small tube to slot over the end for extra leverage,
Point nose pliers ( smaller the better ),
Normal pliers,
Small and Medium flat blade screwdriver,
Paint marker,
A pot for the bits,
Sum rags,
A glove ?.
Estimated time:
It took me just under an hour because I had all the right tools but id give yourself about 1 ½ to 2 hours.
Difficulty rating:
Fairly easy.
WARNING: AS WITH ALL WORK YOU DO ON YOUR CAR, PLEASE BE CAREFUL AND USE COMMON SENSE - IF IT'S HEAVY, DON'T LIFT IT ON YOUR OWN. IF IT'S HOT, DON'T TOUCH IT, OR USE A RAG TO PICK IT UP. IF IT'S SHARP, WEAR GLOVES. IF YOU NEED TO DISTUB ANY ELECTRICAL COMPONENTS, MAKE SURE YOU DISCONNECT YOUR BATTERY FIRST AND IF IT'S ACID - LEAVE IT WELL ALONE!
The reason I did this task is that there was a strong smell of petrol while the car was at a standstill,
My problem was that the guy who rebuilt my engine caught the o-rings while putting in the new injectors.
You may have the same problem or you may want to have a blast at replacing your old / knackered injectors.
1. First thing start your car and let it run for about 20 -30 seconds then turn it off, this is to de-pressurise your fuel system.
2. Make sure your keys aren't in the ignition because if the ignition is switched on the fuel system will pressurise.
3. Remove the throttle cable from the clip on the intercooler, remove the intercooler cover using the 10mm spanner.
4. Pull off the tube attached to the intercooler rack at the top of the inter cooler ( right next to the outlet) and the tube underneath the inter cooler that is attached to the same pipe.
REMEMBER to reconnect these two pipes.
5. Undo the clips on the turbo hoses with 7mm or 13mm socket, the hose on the plenum can be left connected.
6. Undo the four 12mm bolts holding the intercooler rack to the engine and remove the intercooler and rack.
7. Place the glove over the turbo outlet to ensure no debris enters the turbo.
8. Mark the two earth points on the plenum and remove them with the 10mm spanner, this will allow more room for the injector plugs to be moved around.
9. Mark up all the injector plugs in a way that best suits you I just marked them 1 to 4 from left to right.
10. Using the point nose pliers remove the metal clips on the injector plugs, be careful not to drop them because you will never find them again.
11. Remove the injector plugs.
12. Using the pliers move the clips on the oil breather tubes and try to remove the tubes if you want, I just undid the tube at the left-hand side on the engine side. This is all one piece that is connected by a metal pipe attached to the fuel rail.
13. Mark up the vacuum hose and both fuel hoses that are attached to the end of the fuel rail so as not to get them mixed up when re-fitting, undo the pipe clips using a flat blade screwdriver.
Be very careful while removing the fuel hoses because they and the fuel rail will be full of fuel, keep all sources of ignition away and wear eye protection.
14. Mop up any spilt fuel and clean up the area around the injectors as best as possible.
15. Using the 6mm Allen key and pipe if needed undo the four bolts holding the fuel rail on three on the top and one on the bottom , make sure that the bolts go back in the same place as they came out.
16. You should now be able to move the fuel rail up and down, be careful that no dirt enters the injector holes.
17. If you have removed the oil breather tubes then you will be able to completely remove the fuel rail.
The injectors are held in the fuel rail by the rubber o-rings, these just pull out.
18. You can now install your new injectors or replace the o-rings.
When inserting the injectors into the fuel rail smear the o-rings with a bit of fresh oil, this helps them to pop into place rather than you forcing them, causing them to split. And also to prevent you from having to remove them again.
19. Be careful when inserting the injectors back into the head, I used a long thin flat blade screwdriver to guide them in.
20. You can now begin to rebuild, I didn't bother with torque settings as I didn't have them but I would recommend that you try to find them out for the fuel rail bolts.
21. Once you have the fuel rail tightened up, the fuel hoses on, the plugs reconnected and the earth wires fastened to the plenum you can turn the ignition on to pressurise the fuel system. This will hopefully tell you if you have any leaks as I did when petrol started gushing out of a different injector seal.
22. The rebuild process is now a reversal of the removal process from figure 13.
It is essential to check that all pipes are connected and sealed accordingly I would hate for sum bodies most prized possession to go wrong because of lack of inspection.