Induction

[Braveheart]

Just fitted an Apexi 80mm dual funnel air filter in replacement for my standard box with K&N filter. This is a brief stop gap as I will marry the 80mm filter to a z32.
I have noticed that on ideal now, the vacuum/boost gauge reads -0.65 where it used to read -0.4bar. Is there a reason this?
It still boosts fine (no change)

 

[Fast Guy]

The new filter is more restrictive than the old one?

 

[Braveheart]

The new filter is more restrictive than the old one?

I hope not.... it was suppose to be an upgrade from the OE box with K&N... :doh:
All the way from Japan too... ;-)

 

[Fast Guy]

K&Ns are very good filters too, but the apexi beat it in a group test. I think that was down to filtration.

 

[Braveheart]

It's certainly filtering then... I would prefer buckets of clean air rather than cans of (MRSA free) air.

 

[youngsyp]

When I changed from my Apexi Power intake (GTiR spec item) to the now Blitz SUS filter, there was a noticable difference in the way the car performed. The SUS kit flows a lot better but, at the expense of slightly worse filtration.
Also, the Blitz filter is a lot larger than the Apexi it replaced so, there is more filter surface area and therefore, a lower pressure drop across the filter, when compared to the smaller Apexi unit.

What I plan to do now is find a large K&N filter that can use the Blitz mounting hardware so, I get the best of both worlds.

Just a couple of thoughts to throw in there.

I'd tend to agree with FastGuy though, I think your K&N/OE airbox combo flowed better.

Have you let the ecu adjust for the new filter yet ? My ecu and AVCR needed about 50 miles or so, to adjust for the Blitz kit, when I changed over. It ran quite poorly, straight after the switch.

 

[antgtir]

I would have thought that going from -0.4 to -0.65 is having a system that is less restrictive.

The -0.4 figure is effectively higher boost than -0.65 therefore more of positive pressure is in the system for the -0.4 scenario which effectively is causing the engine to work harder if you know what i mean.

Therefore having a boost pressure of -0.65 is actually better and more free flowing than a system that has a boost pressure of -0.4

Ant.

 

[youngsyp]

I would have thought that going from -0.4 to -0.65 is having a system that is less restrictive.

The -0.4 figure is effectively higher boost than -0.65 therefore more of positive pressure is in the system for the -0.4 scenario which effectively is causing the engine to work harder if you know what i mean.

Therefore having a boost pressure of -0.65 is actually better and more free flowing than a system that has a boost pressure of -0.4

Ant.

I agree. Should have read the thread properly in the first place. :doh:

If you look at the figures, the vacuum is actually stronger so yes, it's sucking harder as, the filter is less restrictive.

Isn't 0.65 is quite high....er low though, regardless ?!
I ask as mine sits at around 0.46 at idle when warm. Decelerating on the overun, it might go down to 0.52 but, no lower than that

 

[Braveheart]

I would have thought that going from -0.4 to -0.65 is having a system that is less restrictive.
Ant.

Thats what I wanted to hear. .
I've only ran it 8 miles to test rad and filter.
I'm off to a garage today for some final tweeks before knockhill. 100miles should give me a good idea how it working and I'll let you know!
Cheers!

 

[MINESGTIR]

i run a BLITZ SUS "super air cleaner" 8) too

i have a cold air feed built out of sheet metal from the brake duct so im forcing in quite a bit of air, i agree with the fact that the blitz induction made a hell of a difference

 

[youngsyp]

i have a cold air feed built out of sheet metal from the brake duct so im forcing in quite a bit of air,

Were'nt you supposed to be knocking up a few more of these ? :lol:

 

[antgtir]

I agree. Should have read the thread properly in the first place. :doh:

If you look at the figures, the vacuum is actually stronger so yes, it's sucking harder as, the filter is less restrictive.

Isn't 0.65 is quite high....er low though, regardless ?!
I ask as mine sits at around 0.46 at idle when warm. Decelerating on the overun, it might go down to 0.52 but, no lower than that

It is quite high negative pressure yes, i think mine idles at around the -0.55 / -0.6 mark though.

I have heard that the compression of the engine can change this figure, have you carried out a compression test recently? (not trying to frighten people as it was only something i heard on the grapevine lol)

I suppose in a way it makes sense, if the compression is down on a particular piston then the engine will work harder to try and equalise / make the engine run as efficient as poss hence the lower negative pressure.

What do others think about this?

Ant.

 

[Braveheart]

i run a BLITZ SUS "super air cleaner" 8) too

i have a cold air feed built out of sheet metal from the brake duct so im forcing in quite a bit of air, i agree with the fact that the blitz induction made a hell of a difference

I remember looking at your setup some time back.
It looked great and we're all waiting on one now....;-)

 

[youngsyp]

What do others think about this?

Ant.

Different gauges giving different readings.

Not just in the physical numbers but, the method in which they are displayed. For example, my 3 gauges for displaying boost and vacuum readings show mmHg and in. Hg between them. You'll also have psi, bar etc....

 

[MINESGTIR]

i know im slacking BIG TIME.. i know of 3 people who want these.. above included.... so im just waiting for the F**king thing to go and get mapped so i can get the cold air feed off and sell them to you guys !!! apoligies.... i know it needs doing....

 

[antgtir]

I must admit im basing my comments on my stock gauges, however unless there is a major calibration issue then apart from giving a more accurate readout i.e display scale i wouldnt expect to see large differences.

Ant

 

[youngsyp]

I must admit im basing my comments on my stock gauges, however unless there is a major calibration issue then apart from giving a more accurate readout i.e display scale i wouldnt expect to see large differences.

Ant

I'll have a look at my OE gauge on the way home and see what it reads.

I'm sure it isn't a calibration issue but, it could be (most likely) the different scaling, different gauges use.

Paul

 

[antgtir]

I'll have a look at my OE gauge on the way home and see what it reads.

I'm sure it isn't a calibration issue but, it could be (most likely) the different scaling, different gauges use.

Paul

It must be as, as far as im aware your R is one of the more shall we say reliable out there so i would be supprised to see something like compression down on particular cylinders being the cause *clause 1.0 - No responsibility is held by antgtir if something goes terribly wrong with Paul's R on the way home tonight* :lol: :lol: ;-)

Ant.

 

[youngsyp]

It must be as, as far as im aware your R is one of the more shall we say reliable out there

Ant.

You've gone and done it now. The car's probably going to break down on the way home and be off the road for 6 months waiting for a rebuild. :doh: :lol:
Unless I continue to drive it, like I'm driving Miss Daisy. :roll: ;-)

It probably won't be warm by the time I get home but, I've got to do some driving tonight, to pick the jiffy bags up for the GB. I'll double check it then.

Paul

 

[antgtir]

You've gone and done it now. The car's probably going to break down on the way home and be off the road for 6 months waiting for a rebuild. :doh: :lol:
Unless I continue to drive it, like I'm driving Miss Daisy. :roll: ;-)

It probably won't be warm by the time I get home but, I've got to do some driving tonight, to pick the jiffy bags up for the GB. I'll double check it then.

Paul

Only 6 months lol:lol:

Dont forget mine is the first to be sent:lol: :lol:

Good luck ;-)

Ant.