i want 400 BHP

H

hum

Guest
I would like to buy gtir, the car is to be in standard form. I am looking for 400 Bhp. What mods do you recommend?

The car will on be used for track and 1/4 miles only.

I know that I have to rebuild the engine, I already have a uni chip, and a evo 6 front mount intercooler. So what I would like to know is what pistons do you recommend, what turbo, and what Bar am I able to push out?

And if I do want more power at a later date, what will I have to change to do this.

thank for your help

If you have a better idea to get this power, can you please tell me, I need all the help I can get.

thanks
Ryan
 

andygtir

Member
take a look on the norris designs site, they do engine packages and should give you an idea of what needs changing and costs.
 
A

Anonymous

Guest
Sorry! I'm confused. Do you already have an R? If not and you want 400bhp, DON'T buy a standard one. Buy a well mod'd one from someone on here (check the for sale section) as you'll save a fortune on doing it yourself.

Dunc
 

Nad

Active Member
Just give 15k to a tuner and u should be sorted. It really depends how far u wanna go. U can have a crap 400bhp and a good 400bhp. depends what u r after. If it has a crap map 400bhp will get beaten by 350bhp car.

Nad
 

Jobi Joba

Member
Nad:I guess he's talking about horsepower,not poneypower... :lol:

You can have 400bhp for not that much...but if you also want reliability,I hope you have deep pockets or that you are ready to do a lot of things by yourself...
 
Get a real pony car hehe.
Yeah raw cubic inch man.
That is what a drag car ought to be hehe.
Get a funny car or a top fuel dragster.
Wanna road car for drag racing get a RX7 Savanah and dump in a 20B with a T88 hehe. Wheelie bar optional.
Well anyway cut the chase all i got to say the best of luck in being the 1st R to break the 10 sec 1/4 mile car hehe. Make Vin Diesel proud hehe.

But all i can say the quest for easy 400hp and like what fellow forumers say, reliable 400hp is a big big difference.
The quest for power and tractability will be never ending.

Well i guess u need an beyond exceptionally brilliant tuner, engine builder, money and some luck.=)
No puns intended.
Cheers
 
S

Sirnixalot

Guest
Responsive 400hp
Forged pistons (keep the standard 8.3:1 compression ratio)
1mm or 1.2mm headgasket
Cryotreated, balanced then shotpeened standard rods
gas flowed standard manifold
HKS GT-RS turbo
The new high flow dump pipes (3" outlet)
custom 3" mandrel bent exhaust
FMIC of your choice
Oil cooler
The least aggressive clutch that will hold the power
Some sort of engine managment
255lp or more fuel pump
600-660cc injectors


Optional bits
Head work....not required but will let you make more power at less boost and you might as well do it while the head is off
Jun flywheel
 
S

Sirnixalot

Guest
the lower the compression ratio the more boost you can run without running into detonation....you take off too much and the car becomes sluggish and awfule to drive unless its in boost. Not to mention low compression engines are horrible on fuel when cruising. A 1.2mm headgasket wil net you about 8.0:1 CR plenty safe
 

Jobi Joba

Member
Sirnixalot said:
the lower the compression ratio the more boost you can run without running into detonation....you take off too much and the car becomes sluggish and awfule to drive unless its in boost. Not to mention low compression engines are horrible on fuel when cruising. A 1.2mm headgasket wil net you about 8.0:1 CR plenty safe
err...sorry but it seems you actually have the std comp ratio with a 1mm head gasket...And you'll also have to keep in mind that reboring raises your comp ratio...not a lot,but it raises it.

But,thanks to you,now I'm no more sure of the size of the head gasket I will order! :evil: :lol:
 
A

Anonymous

Guest
OK. Stupid question to give you all a good laugh! :oops: I thought that changing the thickness of the head gasket would alter the compression ratio. Did I just make this up? If not why use the different thickness headgasket.

Please excuse my ignorance!

Dunc
 
S

Sirnixalot

Guest
increasing the thickness of your headgasket does indeen decrease the compression ratio. Why do people choose to change the pistons instead? Well when a head gasket gets really thick it can no longer sustain the forces of the fuel igniting and they blow out the side. If i am getting pistons i would rather specify the compression ratio i want and then use the thinnest head gasket possible.
 
A

Anonymous

Guest
Thanks guys,

learn something new every day as they say!

Dunc
 
How about a 2.2 litre stroker kit with an 87mm bore. Every bit of displacement counts. That's my 2 cent worth philosophy.
:)
That will give a slightly better low end ommph. I wonder would a GT3037 turbine would be just nice for a drag car? Or those hybrid T3/T4 combination.
Unless lag is your name and power is the game.
HKS T51 R Kai or a
T88
:twisted:
What ever u do make sure the engine rebuilding process is given 110% attention. No slip shot work. Try to fully balance everything from the crankshaft, cranky pulley, flywheel, clutch, conrod, pistons. Am i missing anything out.
A blueprinted engine is so sweet as compared to just a typical half past six rebuild.
I wonder if there is a possibility to rebuild an engine as strong as possible to take what ever boost u can throw at it? Then u can run your turbo without any for of boost controller and then i can scream this qoute, "wastegates are for pussies, waste no ounce of power"
:wink:
I'm sure most prominent turbo car does that. Like Mario's R33 GTR from downunder. Limit boost with rev and cam timing.

But the only thing i wonder what gearbox are there available to take that such of pwer
:?:
 
S

Sirnixalot

Guest
the GT3037 isnt a drag turbo unless you opt for the 56trim compressor and 1.01 A/R turbine housing
 
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