How to Strip the Gearbox in car

hmmm

Member
View attachment 1631

All credit to whoever thought of this.

Note. If your working in a small garage you will need about 3 or 4 feet of room on the passenger side.

You may need to remove wires for the reverse light etc, remove when you see necessary
Jack the front of the car up and support on axle stands.
Remove NS (passenger side) wheel.
Drain the gearbox fluid,
Remove IC if it's the standard top mount.
Remove battery and tray.
Remove air filter and induction pipe from filter to turbo.
Undo NS drive shaft hub nut, bottom ball joint and remove complete drive shaft including the long shaft that goes inside the box, ie don't undo the inner cv joint flange bolts put prise the entire assembly out of the box.
Support engine using a hoist or similar.
Remove front centre and rear centre engine stabiliser bars.The rear one is below the inlet manifold (you just need to remove the main through bolt on each one - about 3inch long).
Remove the complete NS front and NS rear engine mounts.
Lower the engine about 3 or 4 inches (it will tilt down on the NS).
Remove the bolt that holds reverse gear idler shaft support. (i'll try and get pictures of this bolt).
Remove the two detent ball retainer bolts and the springs and balls if you can.(pics to follow)
Remove the bolts around the gearbox that hold the two halves together(about 15 of them M8 thread, 12mm head).
Remove gear box casing! (you may need to tap it gently with a hammer).

You now have complete access to the gearbox internals, should have taken you less than 2 hours!

Do what ever you gotta do.

Refitting is basically the reversal of removal, use a decent RTA gasket sealer to re-seal the box, make sure the joints are clean and dry. The reverse gear support can be tricky to get the bolt back in, use a small screwdriver or something to line the thread back up.
 

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madcabbie

Guest
This is very helpfull, and I plan to link it to the Aussie site. I am sure you won't mind.

But it would be nice if you could possible link me the original thread. I went looking for it a few weeks ago and couldn't find it.

It had some handy pictures wich always help peeps like me.

cheers
 

Fire & skill

Vintage member
this was up before and dissapeared :cry: had all the pics with it as well. really really helpful guide - prob the best one on here :D
 
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madcabbie

Guest
Thats why I was hoping to track down those pics again.....

Anyone??????? :wink:
 

antgtir

New Member
Just out of interest on the second picture is that the Input Shaft Bearing on the end? If so i could do with changing mine at some point in the future.

Ant.
 

ex-gtir

Member
antgtir said:
Just out of interest on the second picture is that the Input Shaft Bearing on the end? If so i could do with changing mine at some point in the future.

Ant.
no that the other end from input bearing but can be done bit fiddly
 

j10gtr

Member
Anyone fancy continuing this for removal of input shafts etc and input shaft bearing replacements?

Thanks
Paul
 

j10gtr

Member
No you cant change the clutch because the bellhousing is still attached to the engine. To change the clutch you need to remove the whole gearbox complete.

Thanks
Paul
 

ashleygtir

New Member
i know that it would be attached to the engine but what i meant was could you remove the rest of the box as if you was doing a clutch on a fwd car or is the only way engine out? if so how long does it take? cheers
 
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paulrandy

Guest
WheyHey! My oldie thread.. been away a while!

You can't remove the rest of the box if i remember right(ages since i've done one) think the diff housing won't clear the wishbone mount.

Next time i do one(if i do) i'll do a run down on removing the shafts etc.
 
A

another sunny

Guest
my box has started to rumble , is it possible to replace the usual worn bearings with this type of gearbox stripdown?
Are there any uprated or just better bearings available etc for my box?
 
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