high idle issue and need to do emissions/pollution test soon

K

Kolyaness

Guest
(i posted this in the maintenance section but realized maybe should belong here?)
Hi im a new pulsar owner from toronto canada
been driving my pulsar for about a week now since import.
the car used to idle at 1300-1500 but i changed spark plugs NGK iridium and ran some injector cleaner (emissions prep version) and car idles at 1000-1100 now

i dont know much about nissan cars since i owned older bmw's before this car
(first nissan/japanese car i owned actually but i really like it so far )
any help out be greatly appreciated.
or suggestions on things to do to insure passing the pollution test?

i should have pics of it in a couple days
black
1992
97xxx km
all original no mods, just a coupe dings from shipping lol
 
Jonesy

Jonesy

Member
Think most peoples cars on the site idle around 1000 - 1100, mine certainly does. Although most of them wont be standard.
I take it the laws are tighter over there in canada.
There is an idle adjustment screw on them.
Will it definitly fail its emissions test ?, try putting it in and take it from there .
 
P

pulsarboby

Guest
if that dont work then buy one of the blanking kits for breather system, steve pudney on here flogs them, they will slow the idle speed down also, and tidy up un-needed pipework.

but as jonesy said 1000-1100 isnt excessive with these cars anyway.
 
M

MINESGTIR

New Member
Mine had funny idling. my throttle position sensor was ****ed ... also i ordered the nissan part whatya macallit which stays shut on cold and opens once warm to allow more air to flow or somein( me mechanic ordered it )

now it idles how it should . 954rpm once warm

it idels around 1200 - 1250 cold and 954 warm ... (shows on the apexi computer)

i bet a lot of owners have this problem from what i read
 
gtirx2

gtirx2

Active Member
If it fails your emissions tests buy a adjustable fuel pressure regulator and turn the fuel pressure down to get it though the test,then turn it back up when your done.
 
K

Kolyaness

Guest
gtirx2 said:
If it fails your emissions tests buy a adjustable fuel pressure regulator and turn the fuel pressure down to get it though the test,then turn it back up when your done.
Click to expand...
thats a good idea actually... will the car function the same but with less power?

There is an idle adjustment screw on them.
Click to expand...
where is it located?


im in the process of getting a manual so i can figure out the lil newbie stuff without all the questions hehe
 
K

Kolyaness

Guest
pulsarboby said:
if that dont work then buy one of the blanking kits for breather system, steve pudney on here flogs them, they will slow the idle speed down also, and tidy up un-needed pipework.

but as jonesy said 1000-1100 isnt excessive with these cars anyway.
Click to expand...

"blanking kit" is that like a fluid you spray while its running?

Mine had funny idling. my throttle position sensor was ****ed ... also i ordered the nissan part whatya macallit which stays shut on cold and opens once warm to allow more air to flow or somein( me mechanic ordered it )
Click to expand...
can i clean the cold start valve out? pretty much sure u cant clean the throttle positioning sensor right?


what about an idle control valve... whats it location?
 
K

Kolyaness

Guest
ok i did the test today and she passed!
i ran the car on 1/4 gas line antifreeze and the rest high oct fuel (about 5 liters total in combination) got the catalytic nice and hot by driving around high rpm for a lil bit and went in for the test.
 
antgtir

antgtir

New Member
Id do as MINESGTIR has said and check the voltage across the TPS, this is generally one of the major contributries to a high idle.

Glad the car passed, generally the Japs have got emissions covered unless something isn't working as it should, so id be happy.

Ant.
 
M

m.r.motorsport

Guest
antgtir said:
Id do as MINESGTIR has said and check the voltage across the TPS, this is generally one of the major contributries to a high idle.

Glad the car passed, generally the Japs have got emissions covered unless something isn't working as it should, so id be happy.

Ant.
Click to expand...
what should the voltage be ?
 
M

MINESGTIR

New Member
my prob was auxillary air valve was jammed open, this seems to be a common problem....also main prob was the Throttle bodies, as there is 4 butterflies it only takes a small movement (through age and wear) so more and more air bleeds through the butterflies on idel due to age etc...

so even if you fix all the other air leaks like idle speed sensor etc... you still have the butterfly problem... ideally you want to take the throttle bodies off (monster job though) and re-adjust the throttle stops so the butterflys are closed but not binding.

we made adjustable stops on the topside so they can be adjusted from the top... its not a 5 min job.....BUT if you want to sort the idle out you have to do it properly.....

now idles at 950rpm on warm..

Im not sure most peoples cars are set up properly as the base idle is out and the ecu throws a load of ignition timing so this increases the idle still... without a solid base idle you cant get your igntion timing down to stay down.

you need to get a solid base idle so ecu can go into diagnostic mode... to do this you disconnect the TPS.

if things are not right, eg idle out the ECU will throw in lots of timing as it assumes the TPS is faulty and puts the car into a "safe mode" and throws timing instead of diagnostic mode...

high idles normally relate to aux air valve, throttle bodies leaking air and air leaks... it all adds up..


once your idle at 950rpm you obviously have a solid base to map it correctly.


you cant band aid a broken arm...

Hope this helps.!!!
 
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