help iam in trouble

[pulsar-kid]

went out last nite for a blast in the R and all was ok let it warm up headed on to this fast bypass was doing around 50 ish went to over take a car dropped into 3rd floored it but as i was gunning it it strated to hesitate and like die and come back then i remebered that my battery had gone dead so i replaced the batt, as i was going i checked my avc-r hadnt lost its settings and that the boost had this showing in the setting mode ******% so i set it back to 1.0bar but it was still hesitaing a little, so i thought better head home but it got worse even under boost it judder and in boost it was treable so i got home and checked the pipes they looked ok for what i can see and checked the plugs they are a sandy colour so what can it be, big help please guys as i have a couple of mates with scoobs taking the piss at the mo as its playing up

oh i watched the boost gauge as it hesitated it went up to 15psi then dropped to 10 then back to 15psi mods to the engine are,
mines ecu,
greedy e-manager blue,
full goose inc decat,
hks filter,
apexi avc-r,
hks blow of valve,
new nissan leads,
set at 15psi,
standaed i/c

and when i had the garage swap the engines over the standard boost gauge doesnt work and i swapped the gauges over and still no vacum it does regester 0 when the ignition comes in

and what should a healthy pulsar oil pressure run at when its warmed up and driving around very slowly

 

[Cambridge_pulsar]

I don't know if it's possible for the emanage to have lost it's settings if the battery had died? I certainly wouldn't have thought so. Was the battery definitely at fault? My alternator died a while back and that caused it to run crap for a bit before it died altogether. Your avcr should show the vacuum reading if you're standard gauge isn't working. I would also check and check again every pipe you can and preferably pressure test the intake system to find any leaks as even a tiny split in a vauum pipe can cause rough running.

 

[pulsar-kid]

iam pretty sure its the battery at fault as it seems ok now oh and i did see the boost gauge drop of throttle down to -15-20

 

[pulsar-kid]

i checked the dizzy about 20 mins ago but i cant tell if tis ok heres a few pics sorry about the quality

 

[steve963]

I think youll find those pics are sh*te, or have I had too much beer, lol

seriously though, the contacts do look a bit worn (I think!)

I changed leads and dizzy cap on my mazda 626 after it started running bad and now its mint (apart from its a 626 not RX7)

 

[pulsar-kid]

been playing a little, i found that my sump was weeping so pulled that of and resealed it got new oil and filter from nissan,
now the boost pipes where they go i have no idea,

heres how they are when i got it back from the garage,

back of the pleium run two pipes one thicker thean the other, the thicker one leads to the dump valve, the small pipe runs to the fuel rail.

of that pipe from the fuel rail it t pieces twice one to the avcr part second to the after market boost gauge.

of the actuator runs to the avcr valve controller then straight up to the side of the plenium just underneath the big boost pipe.

at the bottom of the engine bay at the back there looks like another boost pipe not connected could this be my standard boost gauge pipe. thats all my boost pipes that i have.

please can you confirm if this is right.

 

[youngsyp]

That all sounds fine. If that other vacuum hose isn't connected to anything, find where it was connected to. If it is, it's supposed to vent to atmosphere.
If it is the OE boost gauge pipe, it will go round the back of the engine and connect to the plenum. It could be a breather pipe though. The other end will go to a little black plastic box, with an electrical connector, on the inner N/S/F (passenger) wing.


As for your first problem, change the fuel filter. That distributor cap looks fine to me.

And if you decide to sell your Mines ecu, and swap it to a stock one (there's no advantage in having the Mines ecu, if you have an Emanage), give me a shout as, I'll probably have it off you. ;-)

Paul

 

[pulsar-kid]

ive bought a new dizzy cap and rotory arm, ill recheck all the pipes and will take it out later to see if i have got rid of the problem, i also have got another std intercooler that iam fitting just incase it was that,ill post later a answer if its fixed thanks for the help

 

[pulsar-kid]

right guys took it to a skyline specialist place up the road from me yesterday and he found my problem the valve from the avc-r that goes in the actuator pipe is sticking and i need to replace it, when i turn the avc-r off i get 10 psi but when i turn it on straight away the problems there i set the avc-r to 0.40 at 25% it boosted up to 20psi so i shut of straight away and then swicthed off the avc-r and its fine its smooth power delevery slow but smooth no juddering or cutting back but the only thing iam worried about with it switched off my mines ecu is designed for 1.2 bar if iam correct will this cause any damage and should i just take the valve out and use a bleed valve till i can get a new part? any ideas how much they are?