Hand brake etc

[PobodY]

As it's MOT time again I was under the R on the weekend and I noticed that the handbrake cable looked a little odd. It seems like there is far more tension on one side than the other. - Is that usualy caused by the cable snapping inside the sleeve between the T-piece and the caliper? If so where's the best place to get one and is it easy to swap (looks pretty easy, but these things can be deceptive).

I was also degreasing the front of the car and I noticed that the oil smelled more like gearbox oil than engine oil. If it is gearbox oil, where does it usually come from (and what's the best way to sort it)? - It's a bit hard to tell when you notice it on the bottom of the transfer case because it could have come from anywhere. Maybe the driveshaft seals? It's not chucking it out of the breather.

I'm sure there was something else, but I've forgoten what it was now.

I think this year I might need to SORN the car before the tax can be paid... :doh:

 

[pulsarboby]

more than likely the seals are leaking from one or both possibly.

could be your h/b cable has snapped on one side....if so then we have good s/h ones in stock

 

[PobodY]

I suspect it has snapped. - the T-piece where it connects to the centre cable is all skewed (meaning that all the strain is on the off-side cable and not the near-side), but it's hooked-on to the cailper and the handbrake works... it's just not very effective (which is why I was taking a closer look).

I don't really want to have to take the drive shafts out to replace the seals... maybe I'll see if I can work-out where it's coming from. I think I'm just going to have to do it anyway.

 

[PobodY]

I've run into some problems. - Well, just the one really: how do I get the cable off the T-piece? It feels like it should just unhook, but I can't see or feel a way to make that happen.

I'm also not so sure it's broken; it might just be really stretched. I can't see a way to adjust the length to allow for that, so I'm happy with replacing it... just as soon as I can get it off.

 

[MarkTurbo]

It does just unhook, you need to rotate the end on the cable though if I remember correctly. As for adjustment you need a 10mm socket on the nut on the bottom of the handbrake lever inside the car.

 

[PobodY]

Thanks. I got it in the end... but it looks like the problem was the f*cking calliper after all. :evil:

I got the replacement cable on and thought "that seemed too easy". I gave the handbrake mechanism a little "encouragement" with my persuader, and it took up some of the slack. - Looks like the issue is/was that it's just not returning all the way. :doh:
I've sprayed some lubricant over it (yes, I avoided getting it on the disc and pads), so I'll see if that makes a difference.

Any other suggestions? I don't really want to replace the calliper, but if it's knackered I'd rather be safe than dead.

 

[Fast Guy]

If it is gearbox oil, where does it usually come from (and what's the best way to sort it)? - It's a bit hard to tell when you notice it on the bottom of the transfer case because it could have come from anywhere. Maybe the driveshaft seals?

At a guess it's probably come from the transfer case. Check the level.
Mine has leaked from the flange where the propshaft bolts onto before. The oil does tend to go rearwards though rather than forwards.

 

[grim_d]

Any other suggestions? I don't really want to replace the calliper, but if it's knackered I'd rather be safe than dead.

You could rebuild it yourself, pop the piston out the caliper and give it a clean up then replace with new seals, dismantle the hand brake mechanism and give everything a clean up. http://www.biggred.co.uk

Should help, but one wonders if it is less hassle and cheaper just to replace the caliper.

You won't die from a slacking rear caliper though, you probably wouldn't even notice if it seized altogether, biggest concern is mot man.

 

[PobodY]

It's looking like that's what I'm going to need to do.

This is what the pads look like (inside on the left, outside on the right); slightly uneven wear...

...and this one looks like it might have cooked a bit. :doh:

Anyone know off-hand what thickness the disc should be? I might as well check that's still OK whilst I'm at it.

 

[GTI-R Nath]

the hand brake doesn't work on the drivers side on my car, the caliper isn't seized because the piston comes out fine when the brake pedal is pushed, i also changed my hand brake cable and i made no difference, so Im guessing its the handbrake mechanism on the caliper that causing the problem.

 

[MarkTurbo]

Check the sliders on the caliper whilst your at it. If they're seized it can make the pads wear unevenly.

 

[PobodY]

Yeah, they were pretty tight. I've put some copper slip on them and the pads seem to move a little more freely now. - I'm still not sure what's wrong; if it's just the handbrake mechanism will rebuilding the calliper actually help?

 

[grim_d]

If the sliders were sticky you should give them a good clean up with some emery cloth. You can wrap it round a pencil or similar to clean out the female side. The rubber boots should also be clipped on both sides. Chances are they are split though.

What is the boot on the piston like? If its in good shape the piston is unlikely to he seized and giving the handbrake mechanism a good clean and lubricate should help.

Also make sure that the little nub on the pad is inside a groove on the piston to stop it from spinning the piston as that won't help matters.

 

[PobodY]

All the boots look pretty good; they don't seem to be split anywhere. - Maybe brake cleaner is the order of the day.

 

[grim_d]

What's the mileage out of interest? More likely wire brush and grease are your friends here..

Bloody motors.

 

[PobodY]

Ok. I've changed the hoses on the passenger side.
I've changed the steering rack gaitor on the passenger side.
I went to bleed the brakes... nothing coming out of the nipple?
"That's odd", says I... "Oh, I can see it dripping."
Is it the calliper? No. That seems dry.
Is it the new hose not sealing? No, that seems dry too.
It looks like it's coming from between the body and the fuel tank....FARK! the metal line has given out. :doh:

It looks like the combination of (probably) 20 years of use, plus my efforts to free the hoses, have caused it to fail.

So, new quest: what's the best way to fix this? I don't really want to have to replace all the lines, but I can't see a way to just replace a segment where it's corroded.
Can I buy one that's good from someone like Boby or is that just about the most stupid and dangerous idea I've had so far? - Is it time for me to admit defeat and take it to a garage (and how do I do that if it's SORN; ring them, ask to book it for an MOT but tell them it needs brake lines changing, then drive it to the MOT and let them fix the line?).

It's not looking good for me to have this ready for the rolling road next weekend.

Help me Obi-Wan Kenobi, you're my only hope!?

 

[campbellju]

I've never done it but I believe you cut out the damaged section and replace it with copper pipe. You can buy special joints yo link them back together again.

markturbo would understand this better than most.

 

[PobodY]

That's not so bad I guess: find a bit that looks good; chop it with a pipe cutter; put a union on and flare it; bend some new tubing; splice it in? - I've read that getting a good flare on brake pipes is a bit of an art, and the line is no good if it leaks fluid at any of the joins.

If anyone has some really good advice, I'm all ears. Brakes are the kind of thing you can't afford to bodge, and realistically I'd prefer the line has failed whilst it's still on stands in my garage rather than when I was at full boost on the road; it can't kill me here.

All that's going to happen now is that I'm going to find other jobs that need to be done, or parts that I need to buy and install...

 

[Sunny-D]

I had this done after an mot failure, i just had a small section of the osr line replaced at a tyre fitters garage, cost an hours labour + fluid ect.

 

[Fast Guy]

I'd prefer the line has failed whilst it's still on stands in my garage rather than when I was at full boost on the road; it can't kill me here.

Unless it falls off the stands :bolt: