Guaging interest for a boost/vacuum leak tester

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youngsyp

Active Member
Chaps,

As we all know, any tiny leak in the boost or vacuum lines can cause significant loses to power and torque.
After my brother had issues with his S3, it got me thinking about ways to test the boost and vacuum lines for integrity.

I've been going through a few ideas and what I've come up with is a very simple tool but, very effective in use. My initial idea isn't going to work as, the main part that I need, I'd have to buy in 500 unit batches. So, it's not cost effective. I've looked everywhere for them but, the only companies that can supply them supply to the trade and so they're bulk buy.
The second design that I had in mind is more expensive but, will look better too and be possibly easier to use

Weighing everything up, I should be able to do this for around £20, including P&P or maybe a bit less. I know this seems a bit steep but, the main part of the kit is a silicon reducer hose which, will cost me around £15-£16 to source and of course, I'm taking all the effort away from the buyer to source all the parts and make the thing !

If anyone is interested, let me know.

Cheers

Paul
 
Y

youngsyp

Active Member
It's extremely simple and nothing that hasn't been seen before, I just thought I'd offer the idea up and see what people feel. The hardest part has been finding suitable parts, off the shelf. Once this is sorted, making the kit will be very simple as, it only contains 2 parts !
Basically, you use it to pressurise the intake system. This in turn pressurises the boost and vacuum lines. You then listen for air leaks ! You can pressurise the intake system with a compressor or bike pump. Ideally, you'd monitor the boost guage to start with, and pressurise the system to about the level of pressure that you'd run the turbo at. That way, you'd be sure that up to the boost pressure you run, there will be no leaks !

I've done a bit more digging and hopefully, I can drop that price to about £6 or £7 but, that kit won't come with the silicon reducer hose, it'll be the simpler kit. It'll still do the same job though. I'm just waiting to hear back from the main part supplier.
 
Mr GTiR

Mr GTiR

New Member
ahhhh, there's me thinming that it was a real time monitor that i could use while driving.

I'm still interested fella.

What kind of pressure do you need to use on your kit? 1 , 4, 6 bar?
 
Y

youngsyp

Active Member
Mr GTiR said:
What kind of pressure do you need to use on your kit? 1 , 4, 6 bar?
Click to expand...
Well, it all depends on what boost pressure you run. If you run 1.4 bar max, I'd recommend pressurising the system to 1.5 bar when testing. That way, you'd be sure to know it doesn't have any leaks at the max boost pressure you're running !
You don't want to over pressurise the system as, you could blow the intercooler and any dodgy seals etc...
I've just heard back from the parts supplier and the minimum order is 1000 pieces at £20 + vat per 100 items. That's ruled that out then !
I think it makes more sense to just give the info out now so, here's a parts list and 'how to' !

Expensive kit (for stock size turbo inlet)

1x 2" pvc end cap
1x reducer pipe, (54mm to 51mm I think, I need to measure this to confirm)
1x car tyre valve
2x jubilee clips to suit reducer

Start by drilling a suitable size hole in the end cap. This should be a snug fit for the tyre valve although, you should use silicon sealant to make sure it's air tight ! Place the end cap in the 51mm end of the reducer pipe and tighten the jubilee clip. Remove the rubber induction pipe from the turbo and place the other end of the reducer pipe over the turbo inlet pipe. Tighten jubilee clip. Obviously, you'll want to blank off all the holes/pipes that go into the induction pipe so that they are air tight. You then attach a compressor or similar to the tyre vale and pressurise the boost/vacuum system to the required pressure. Stick your head under the bonnet an listen for the 'hisses' !!
Here's an article to give you a better idea of what I'm talking about !

http://www.boostcreeps.com/phpBB/boostleaktester.php

If anyone wants details of where to get parts, just let me know !
 
stevepudney

stevepudney

GTiROC CHAIRMAN
Staff member
I made one of these about a year ago.

It consisted of 2 x 3 inch lengths of 63mm (2.5") stainless tube which had a cap welded on to form the end caps, 2 x 63mm silicone coupler hose's, a tire valve, a tire inflater with pressure gauge and a few jubilee clips (oh, and a compressor)

The problem with the plastic end caps (been there and made that mistake already) is similar to your induction boost pipes, you need to have a swage line round the end of the caps to stop the caps blowing off when put under pressure, this isn't possible to make on a plastic pipe but it is if you have a swager ;-) and use stainless or mild steel tube (same as your induction pipe). You can try it without the swage line and use plastic but you will never stop that bloody cap blowing off as you can't get the clip tight enough without crushing the plastic. The plastic is just to soft.

Got my system up to 3 bar in the end, without leaks.

See here http://www.gtiroc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=40534
 
maz

maz

New Member
this reminds me of finding punctures on my bicycle tyres as a kid. sticking my head in the engine bay and listening for hissing is a bit hit and miss, i think il submerge the engine in water and look for bubble streams!
 
Y

youngsyp

Active Member
stevepudney said:
I made one of these about a year ago.

It consisted of 2 x 3 inch lengths of 63mm (2.5") stainless tube which had a cap welded on to form the end caps, 2 x 63mm silicone coupler hose's, a tire valve, a tire inflater with pressure gauge and a few jubilee clips (oh, and a compressor)

The problem with the plastic end caps (been there and made that mistake already) is similar to your induction boost pipes, you need to have a swage line round the end of the caps to stop the caps blowing off when put under pressure, this isn't possible to make on a plastic pipe but it is if you have a swager ;-) and use stainless or mild steel tube (same as your induction pipe). You can try it without the swage line and use plastic but you will never stop that bloody cap blowing off as you can't get the clip tight enough without crushing the plastic. The plastic is just to soft.

Got my system up to 3 bar in the end, without leaks.

See here http://www.gtiroc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=40534
Click to expand...
Steve, no disrespect ment here at all as, that's a great idea and of course the best way to do it but, unfortunately I don't have access to steel piping or a welder, and nor do most people. That's why I've been looking to do it this way.
As for the pipe popping out, would that really be an issue at 15-20 psi ?! Even if it were, you could always reinforce the end cap with some 2" pipe inside it, or use silicon sealant to seal it in, as well as the jubilee clip ?!
I'm going to do my one a different way and use a 'T' plug in the end of the induction pipe, this will mean less parts and less cost for a more thorough test. Hopefully I'll get the parts for the weekend. I'll update this thread with any findings !
 
Y

youngsyp

Active Member
Just a quick update. I got all the parts together last night and made the thing. Hopefully, I'll get a chance to test it this weekend !
 
C

Cambridge_pulsar

New Member
I've cobbled one together using a bicycle pump but couldn't get a reading on my boost controller leading me to believe either there's a huge boost leak or you really need to use an air compressor to avoid standing there like a tw@t for hours trying to inflate your engine (oh how my neighbour laughed)
 
stevepudney

stevepudney

GTiROC CHAIRMAN
Staff member
Cambridge_pulsar said:
I've cobbled one together using a bicycle pump but couldn't get a reading on my boost controller leading me to believe either there's a huge boost leak or you really need to use an air compressor to avoid standing there like a tw@t for hours trying to inflate your engine (oh how my neighbour laughed)
Click to expand...
Your only supposed to be pressuring the induction run, cooler piping and intercooler not the whole engine.

If you were trying to pump up your engine with a bicycle pump no wonder your neighbour was PMSL, choice :lol:
 
Y

youngsyp

Active Member
Cambridge_pulsar said:
I've cobbled one together using a bicycle pump but couldn't get a reading on my boost controller leading me to believe either there's a huge boost leak or you really need to use an air compressor to avoid standing there like a tw@t for hours trying to inflate your engine (oh how my neighbour laughed)
Click to expand...
I had a go with the 'T' plug in the end of the induction pipe and I could only get it to 4 psi ?! I also had to block my catch tank outlet off to stop air escaping ?! Back to the drawing board I think !
 
C

Cambridge_pulsar

New Member
I used a samco 90deg reducer I had laying around which conveniently left the valve pointing upwards, am I right in thinking trying to pressurise the intake using a hand pump is futile?
 
stevepudney

stevepudney

GTiROC CHAIRMAN
Staff member
Cambridge_pulsar said:
I used a samco 90deg reducer I had laying around which conveniently left the valve pointing upwards, am I right in thinking trying to pressurise the intake using a hand pump is futile?
Click to expand...
Not futile but it depends where you connected your 90 degree reducer and where it was capped off at the other end.
 
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