Gordon Kay bumpsteer kit

[Dooie Pop Pop]

:doh:

iv found i have some play in the ds rose joint after 3yrs of being fitted, my fault, thats what happens when you drive around with a split arb mount on the chassis rail for a bit:doh: :roll: i got a set of replacment rose joints courtesy of Mr Pudney a while back (new groupbuy Steve?;-) :lol: )

trouble is i cant get the tapered bolt out of the rose joint itself:? after removing the bottom nut and using a forked splitter its possible to get it away from the hub easily, its just the bolt removal thats giving me grief.

am i being a wuss and should just let it have it with a big f***ing hammer:? or do i need the other type of splitter to get the bolt out?

cheers, stu

 

[kirko]

its big hammer job but be careful not to damage the threads leave the nut on the end

 

[stevepudney]

Stu

The tapered part is the part that fits into the hub link (taper faces down with nut on bottom) the ball joint fits on the top end of this same stud and is not tapered, once that nut is off it should just pull off :?

What ever you do, try not to damage the tapered section of this kit as this is the tricky bit to get made, if your going to be wielding a hammer at it then wind the nut (if it will move) to the top of the thread to protect the thread and hit the nut. If the ball joint is nakerd then your safe to use a little heat on it (the joint has nylon inserts in it that will be damaged by the heat), that might ease it a little.

Personally, I'd mark the position of the lock nut on the track rod arm with tip-ex or something, them slacken the lock nut then remove the whole kit from the track rod arm either by turning the track rod itself or the threaded sleeve. Then once you can ge it all off you can stick it in a vice or some thing to work on the rest.

 

[Dooie Pop Pop]

Stu

The tapered part is the part that fits into the hub link (taper faces down with nut on bottom) the ball joint fits on the top end of this same stud and is not tapered, once that nut is off it should just pull off :?

What ever you do, try not to damage the tapered section of this kit as this is the tricky bit to get made, if your going to be wielding a hammer at it then wind the nut (if it will move) to the top of the thread to protect the thread and hit the nut. If the ball joint is nakerd then your safe to use a little heat on it (the joint has nylon inserts in it that will be damaged by the heat), that might ease it a little.

Personally, I'd mark the position of the lock nut on the track rod arm with tip-ex or something, them slacken the lock nut then remove the whole kit from the track rod arm either by turning the track rod itself or the threaded sleeve. Then once you can ge it all off you can stick it in a vice or some thing to work on the rest.

cheers Steve:-D

despite having the boots fitted i think its rusted on tbh which is why it wont pull out of the balljoint freely i didn' t put any lube on it because because i thought it would cause premature wearing of the nylon insert.

we' ll see how long it takes me to fix this one....... :lol: :mong:

 

[Odin]

i didn' t put any lube on it because because i thought it would cause premature wearing of the nylon insert.

:shock: :doh: TW@T :der: .




Rob

 

[Dooie Pop Pop]

:shock: :doh: TW@T :der: .




Rob

do what:? did you pack your nylon inset fitted bumpsteer kit boots with a petrol based grease then cockend? have i lined myself up for the flaming of the year??? :lol:

stu