Gearbox problems

[simzy]

After having 4 years of hassle free GTiR fun its gone and let me down. Whilst changing from 3rd to 4th, the gear selection went very stiff and got stuck in 4th. When I stopped the car it will change between 3rd and 4th and after some side to side movement on the stick it now selected 1st, 2nd, 5th and reverse problem free. But trying 3rd and 4th again the action is still very hard. Leading me to think it could be selector damage, as there is no noise from the gearbox also when it is in gear it still works fine. Has anybody got any ideas or experienced anything similar?? Also can the gearbox be removed with the engine in situ, or will it have to be dropped?

Thanks, Rich

 

[briitts]

Ah the old gearbox question.
Basically your box is screwed, all those bits from the gears and baulk rings etc are jamming the selectors, you will need to remove it and get it rebuilt.

It can be done in situ, but its a pain in the **** and unless you have done it before you may as well remove the whole engine and box complete. There are people that swear in doing it in situ but I tried it and ended up doing it the easy way! Also while the bay is clear you can give it a clean, check stuff.

If you do a search you will find plenty of info on this subject.

One more piece of advice, if you can afford it go for a Qaiffe internals and DO NOT use a paddle clutch!

 

[S.J]

One more piece of advice, if you can afford it go for a Qaiffe internals and DO NOT use a paddle clutch!

just out of interest, why not use a paddle clutch? .. i nearly put one in mine when i did my gearbox .. like to know what luck did for me for not putting it in!

 

[kyepan]

Because it is ultra harsh on the gearbox, it will have no cushion springs to dampen the shock of engaging the drive train, cushion springs are mounted in a ring inside the friction plate.

Also it will have a much higher clamping force because there is much less friction surface, three little paddles instead of a big ring.. This mean it will have to be pushed harder with your foot and its harder to blend / feed the clutch in.. or nearly impossible

so if you launch hard, the clutch usually slips to protect the drive train, this won't happen as easily and your synchro or gears will suffer..

 

[m34ts_pulsar]

AAAAhhhh that explains why my gears are quite stiffish, there ok but doing a quick gear change isnt easy!! (ive not long since had mine and just thought they were like that!!):doh:

 

[chiefpulsar]

so instead of putting in a paddle, i take it an organic clutch would be better, but which one, exedy or ap or even another brand?

 

[justin666]

so instead of putting in a paddle, i take it an organic clutch would be better, but which one, exedy or ap or even another brand?

Helix organic or RPS Max Street Ive had both and either works a treat

J.

 

[Odin]

it will have no cushion springs to dampen the shock of engaging the drive train.

Don't talk out your ar5e about stuff you oviously have no knowledge matey :roll: , Paddle clutches do have the damper springs you Muppet, I've had 3 paddle clutches now my current spec paddle a Nismo and a HKS and they all had damper springs, You are on about some twin plates like the OS Giken that uses unsprung plates ;-) ...

The rest of your post was kinda OK a paddle is a little harsher on your drive train and does need a few more rev's to pull away smoothly, But I don't have any problems with mine...

If you've got less than 350bhp then yes I'd say go for one of the Organic's like the RPS and you'll be fine, Anymore than that then you will be looking at a good quality paddle I'm afraid.

Rob

 

[simzy]

the box is a bit sick you were spot on mate: also the bit about the clutch was spot on as well it has a helix organic full disc fitted by ian at hiteq, its been in 5 years and it only needs a new friction plate . id call that good value . thanks guys