fitting greddy profec 2

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Anonymous

Guest
ive already have a bleed valve fitted i take it i fit the solidnoid valve where that is or somewhere on that line where i can mount it?
but im not so sure on the tube. it looks like the fuel pressure thing is fixed on the right of the injector rail but the tubes dont look like they go to the inlet manifold :?:
cheers
 
A

Anonymous

Guest
i heard somewhere that u could also fit the tube to the pipe by the airfilter going into a box is this right cos it looks easier cheers :?:
 
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pschurr

Guest
Yeah, that whole thing in the manual about taking the vacuum line from the fuel pressure reg can really be ignored.


From the start....

Let's assume that your manual bleed valve is not there.
What you have is a vacuum/pressure line feeding from behind the plenum, underneath the intercooler, and down to the wastegate actuator.
There is also a t-peice on this hose with a branch off to the factory boost solenoid.

My view is that the factory boost solenoid can be removed completely. Some may disagree, but really, if you keep the factory solenoid and it activates to try to decrease boost, the Profec is only going to try to counter that by holding off all pressure to the wastegate anyway.

So, remove the factory boost solenoid, and the piping from there to the t-peice and to the wastegate. The line that comes down from behind the plenum should be kept in place. Use this pipe as the one the manual refers to as being from the fuel pressure reg. Its the same line, and you don't need to touch the fuel pressure reg at all.

So bang that line into the profec solenoid, then go from the solenoid straight down to the wastegate actuator. I've mounted the profec solenoid onto the same bracket that the factory solenoid was mounted to.

The feed for the pressure sensor on the in-cabin profec unit is just a t-peice off the factory boost sensor line. This is different to the solenoid line as it *does* see both positive and negative pressure, whilst the solenoid pressure lines only see positive pressure (pre-throttles).

Hope that helps.
peter
 
C

Crazy

Guest
Some good tips there which should help me when I get around to fitting my Profec B2 in the next few weeks :wink:


Hows the ARC intercooler Peter :?: :?:
 
A

Anonymous

Guest
nice one i think my standard boost solidnoid is already removed as i have a braided line straight through apart from the bleed vavle!
so i can just cut the the tube behind the standard boost gauge and put the t piece here so no need to feed it through the firewall correct :?: :?: :?: :?: :?: :?:
 

geetee

Active Member
Sounds about right - you should be able to T off the pipe you've already run for your boost gauge.

Cheers
GeeTee
 
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pschurr

Guest
Hi damien,

Yeah, the ARC is all goodness. Although, it didn't do well in a top-end dyno comparo with the factory tmic, actually pulled a couple less kw at-the-wheels than the factory.

But it is better off the line and more torque through the mid-range.

I realised yesterday that the engine is now running quite rich (poor-ish idle, some black smoke out back - pulled plugs to find them black as night). So I'm thinking that the ARC has caused the AFM signal to be out of whack, and the ECU is running the engine richer. I'm back on the factory tmic for a week now (with cleaned plugs) to verify that its back to a good afr and the plugs remain clean. If that is the case, then I'll need to look at why the ARC is causing it to run rich.

Anyway, good luck with the profec. Having effective boost control took 1.5 seconds off my best time around Phillip Island.

peter
 
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